that makes sense, here is how another person justifies buying low CRI
“has a fairly noticeable cool to greenish shift if you’re literally analyzing the beam on a white wall but I got it for the lumens”
Chicken Ala CRI, can quickly inform the difference between low CRI an High CRI.
The ChickLight
Top Chick is 6000k XP-G2 72CRI, like the HDS 250, bottom chick is 4000k N219b 92CRI, like the HDS 200 High CRI
one of my favorite CRI tests is the Hand Palm
not to be confused with the Coco Palm (green is not a High CRI challenge color). I roll my eyes when someone posts a High CRI comparison targeting green plants. Its the RED spectrum that High CRI excells at.
Here is the light spectrum from a Cree XP-G2 (note it has plenty of green)
Here is a Nichia 219a (note how much more RED)
Here you can see the difference between High CRI with Low R9 and High R9
next look at the CW XPG3 on bottom right. It certainly works fine to show the hand and the jewel, certainly High CRI is not needed to identify the shape of objects. So if someone wants Low CRI, I can understand. It is certainly brighter. Its a tradeoff, do you want more realistic reds, or just need a brighter beam to reach out farther?
Where did all the red go? The bottom two images use XP-G3 that lack R9, even though one is High CRI. If you want to see a Rosy Palm, High CRI with High R9 makes for a better Flesh Light.
When it comes to getting up close and personal, High CRI Rules the Roost!
Stay tuned for our next episode, Debunking the Myth that Low CRI NW shows colors as well as High CRI NW… here is a preview (NW is just yellower)