Thanks pinkpanda. If I understand you correctly you are saying the 5000K picture shows more realistic background & foreground colors? Is that correct??
I hear what you are saying about color choice to. :+1: I guess that speaks to personal preference, as I would never, on purpose; choose anything warmer than 5000K for an EDC.
:+1: . Exactly, nothing wrong with that at all.
Just as there is nothing wrong with looking at it in beautiful 5000K illumination. Or whatever one’s preference is for that matter.
There is no right or wrong…… just personal preference.
On my phone and computer screen the 4000K makes the green and blue look correct, and the white looks closest to the correct color. I obviously have no idea about the background.
Ok…. :+1: . On mine I can tell very little difference in the containers. If anything, parts of the 5000K picture look more vivid to me. But the backgrounds & foreground are totally different.
As I understand the algorithm, this also produces the same result:
1st choice: 219c, LH351D, XP-L HI
2nd choice: XP-G2, XP-G3
Only the order matters, and putting something in last place is absolutely not a vote for it. Furthermore, this:
1st choice: 219C, LH351D
2nd choice: XP-L HI
3rd choice: XP-G2, XP-G3
votes for the XP-L HI over the other Cree emitters just as much as ranking it first does. Only the order matters, and this still says XP-L HI > (XP-G2, XP-G3).
Finally, though this software doesn’t support it, it is possible to allow leaving options not favored off the ballot with this algorithm; the effect would be the same as ranking them last.
Proto one was
Abmessungen Klipp FW3A Proto 1:
Innendurchmesser: 23.1mm (inner diameter)
Außendurchmesser: 26.1mm (outer)
Material: 0.8mm (thickness)
Länge vom abgeknickten Teil (innen) bis zum Auflagepunkt: 42.5mm
(length to resting point)
As I understand it though, it’s possible to give dishonest rankings in order to have a stronger effect on the result; I won’t explain how in too much detail.
So is that a brown wall, brown shutter, and brown floor as the 4000K makes it look, or is there a white floor, blue/grey shutter and oatmeal wall, as the 5000K shows?
This is what makes me wonder why anyone has a preference for high cri in a warm cct, if it makes everything that does not have a stark colour look brown, what use is the cri? To me it is like having a magnificent variety in your exotic fish tank, and preferring to keep the water dirty.
Did you leave your camera on auto white balance ? Seems to have tried to keep the green gum green (typical behaviour, the natural world is mostly green, so digicams are biased to make it look so)
Not that this means much, use you’re eyes.
By the way, there is a lot more colour in the 4000K shot, even though it is completely wonky.
High CRI makes photos look brownish, but that is not what happens in reality. Photo’s are a pretty poor way of showing tint, let go CRI. (but admittedly there is nothing else on the internet).
I personally want to try to choose the highest efficacy for eye-strain sensitive individuals such as myself, definitely planning on its use as a bike light around others.
Having said that, and seeing other’s opinions. I was wondering the efficacy values per watt (Lux/watt) in a 1m square 15m from the light with the different emitters.
Assuming it’s the XPL-hi, and that many on the list are quite vocal of the color rendering characteristics, and some wanting warmer and cooler light,
I am of the assumption that the end result is going to be a tail-switch throwier handheld version of an armytek wizard XHP50 warm, or at least the wizard’s color temp is bang-on, cooler but not too cool compared to an xpl-5D I’ve seen in my brothers blf a6.
Would an XPL-4D or 4C or 5A1/A2 or 5B1/B2, XPLAWT-H0-0000-000LV20E4
be of consideration for the emitter choice?