Of course you'll never feel that 100mAh in real life. But we can't measure a capacity "in real life" that's why we have standards with guides how to do that:) That's what i'm talkin' about:)
I will order several batteries end of July for me and my friend also. I just want to get the best value product. From the vote, majority say Sanyo is the best (made in Japan) I don’t know HKJ BS procedure testing, but I rather trust BLF users experience. I am just afraid to get fake Sanyo
Any recommendation for some trusted online Sanyo battery seller? (my friend stay in USA)
I would get 4xSamsung 30Qs in high drain light scenarios, since they have lower internal resistance, and can lose less power due to heat, along with 4x NCR18650GA or LG MJ1.
The GA keeps a slighly higher voltage than the 35E at medium currents, like 3A, typical of 1000 lm flashlights. I think the higher voltage and total power would be useful for the buck driver that the M2X-UT seems to have.
Still since both are very close I would buy the cheaper one.
If you had a chance to have sex with Angelina Jolie would you do that or you'd prefer to ask Brad Pitt how she does in the bed?
Having all 4 cells in my hands and a good equipment i preferred to do my own tests at the same time in the same conditions, following the IEC61960-2003 standard rather than just sitting in the sofa and posting others' tests.
HKJ has inspired me a lot and i think not only me but also hundreds or even thousands of others. King regards to him from Russia!
In my opinion the Samsung 30Q (and LG HG2) are better than all of them because they also work when it’s cold outside. They also worksbetter in high-powered flashlights and can be charged more quickly. In addition to all of this they are very cheap. Sony cells are also good, but they usually cost much more.
I’d still buy which ever was cheaper. 100 mah isn’t gonna make much difference unless your driving a led at 1 ma.
Differences in manufacturing and age could make up such a small difference. Same reason HKJ always test two batteries instead of just one.
In the case of a linear regulator it doesn’t matter (apart from the fact that it may fall out of regulation earlier), but if you have a buck or boost driver then Wh is what you care about. Higher input voltage means less current with DC-DC drivers.
I don't know but I've been hoarding batteries from Banggood every time they announce they can ship to Canada again. For Liions shipping price, I could just drive across the border and pick up the batteries myself, go spend some money at Harbor Freight and Burger King and still come back with a few bucks in my pocket!