Thats about right… i got 3150 lumen @ turn on… and 3090 lumen… odf30 is a joke… sometimes turbo mode doesnt want to work… lumintop should have use spring tailcap… oh well…
The tail cap lacks springyness. Just pull the tab up a little so the battery gets compressed. Then you should get turbo for about 1m30s or more. I might replace that tab for a regular spring and bypass it.
I got about 3050 lumen at 30s.
I don’t use it because it lacks a mode around 1000 lm and has the weird one click on and press/hold off. Also, I don’t like glued lights.
I can’t seem to find any 26650 boost driver light that meets my needs. I’m just waiting for Lexel to start selling his drivers.
Not that it matters but VoB got his his really quick. Probably paid extra for the shipping. As far as who is delivering them in the states I have no clue. I would think usps will eventually end up delivering them.
They will get here when they get here.
I have been rushing to the mailbox everyday after work, nothing yet. I usually don’t to get excited about new lights but these, I feel like a 10 year old at Christmas.
I’ll post the difference once I get my light. I’m not expecting any big surprise, though. I’m just hoping to dial my lumen tube in to a tighter tolerance.
I can increase/decrease the lumens by tweaking the 2 discs by the sensor. Or I can add some transparent tape to decrease it a little more. We shall see.
I’m super happy so far. I plan to test with fresh off the charger batteries over a few days to make sure i’m getting the same readings. Used an eneloop fresh out of the package with a 17-10 stamped on it, and a 30q that’s been rested for a few weeks.
Originally, I calibrated my sphere using a few lights I thought were pretty good to go. A GE led nighthawk floodlight (residential ac model), and a few off the shelf lights from olight and nitecore.
I ended up with a rounded multiplier for my 17”, BaSO4 coated, paper mache and fiberglass sphere of 0.20, using a Dr Meter LX1330B.
Initial tests using the newly received calibrated lights gave me 0.1965 for the NW BLF348 and 0.2085 for the CW s2+.
I will likely extrapolate the new variable multiplier, using a formula, based on color temp for all my other lights. With fixed points at the 6420k and 4862k my test lights read.
The olight s10riii and m2r warrior are pretty close to spec. nitecore p12 was all over the place, based on the light’s setting.
I also measured and logged the blf a6, klarus mi7, a few streamlights, and a bunch of s2s, s2+s, c8s, l6s, l2s, q8s at all levels of modding, emisar d4, and a dozen or so others.
I weeded out the outliers and the ones that didn’t measure consistently, then averaged and averaged again. Then compared to all the reviews I could find on each light (some good (with fairly accurate lumens) and some not so good).
Luckily, I saved all my spreadsheets with raw lux numbers measured at start and at 30s, so now I can apply the appropriate new multiplier and have good data from this sphere.
Until the calibration lights, I was always pretty let-down by my numbers, since they were pretty low compared to others’. TBH, the TA sphere reality-check (once calibrated) was a relief. It made the hours I put into it a lot more worthwhile, since my numbers were pretty close.
I analyzed raw data for a number of years at work. I was an analyst by title and job description. Finding outliers and determining trends keeps me up at night if I can’t quite figure it out. A few years ago, I moved into a position using the data (from other people now, although I check it often) to drive people’s workload, and it’s more of a hobby now in this form.