I am also told that on the D4S the Angie Optic is glued to the 33mm Noctigon board and the legs will break trying to remove it. So it may be wise to have a replacement optic on hand before attempting to change emitters…
That’s very interesting Herb, Richard told me they’re glued… solidly. I wonder if there is some variation on how these are assembled, like maybe some of the workers use different methods? Did you get yours from Richard or directly from Hank at Intl-Outdoor?
I will see tomorrow on the green one I ordered from Richard, should be here in the mail…
I ordered mine from Intl-Outdoor. Richard might have gotten a different production run or something where they are glued in, I don’t know. Mine literally fell out when I took the bezel/lens off and turned the light over.
One strange behavior I noticed. When I set mine for stepped ramp with 10 levels and exclude the turbo with 5 clicks in the ceiling ramp config, the light cycles immediately from top to bottom mode and doesn’t stop at the top. I feel it would be more consistent for it to stop at the max just like with turbo on the unlimited ramp.
However, if I click 10 times to limit the ceiling it does this, but the max step is much closer to turbo than with 5 clicks. Works well with 20 clicks as well with the ramp max being at a more suitable level.
Also it would be handy if you could exclude the turbo from the stepped ramp max by just one click. So the ramp config would be aware that you’re in the stepped ramp mode and adapt to the currently selected mode count.
On this light, I personally like XP-L HI ~5000K the best, and XP-G2 3D (~4885K) as a close second. Nichia is nice, but I just haven’t been as happy with the 219c as I was with the older 219b. The 219b emitter is probably the main thing which makes the ROT66 interesting. It doesn’t make as many lumens per emitter, but it makes really nice-looking lumens.