Emisar D4S review

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DB Custom
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I think my Samsungs are U6 binning, lot of room on top but they’re considerably brighter than the current 90CRI offering which is why I went with the 80’s… splitting differences as it were.

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SKV89][quote=DB Custom wrote:

I’m also very impressed with how nice the auxiliary lights look. Just an idea, would it be possible to make the auxiliary leds glimmer individually by a future driver update? If that’s too hard, maybe having the LEDs “breathe” simultaneously.

Love the idea of making the AUX LED’s breathe!

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SKV89 wrote:
Wow that’s insane! I just got my D4S XP-L HI 5D tint and my TA lumen tube calibrated with Maukka calibration lights measures 3,800 lumens at turn-on using two different Shockli fully charged. I’m surprised the LH351D can make that much more than the XP-G2. On my M43, the XP-G2 5D is brighter than the XP-L HI 5D, which is also much brighter than the LH351D 4000k 90cri.

In terms of max lumens on XP-sized emitters, the scale is generally (from most to least):

  • XP-L2 HD
  • LH351D
  • XP-L HD
  • XP-L HI
  • XP-G3
  • 219c
  • XP-G2
  • 219b
  • XP-E2

If I recall correctly, at least. Assuming other things are equal, like color temperature and CRI. Warmer tints and lower CRI generally produce fewer lumens per watt.

So it’s not at all surprising that a LH351D would beat XP-G2 on lumens. It’s enough steps above that it can still put out more light even with somewhat higher CRI.

The Meteor isn’t a very good way to gauge emitter capabilities. It doesn’t run the emitters as hard as they can go, and it is limited by Amps instead of Watts so it will generally deliver more power to older higher-voltage emitters, like the XP-G2.

SKV89 wrote:
I’m also very impressed with how nice the auxiliary lights look. Just an idea, would it be possible to make the auxiliary leds glimmer individually by a future driver update? If that’s too hard, maybe having the LEDs “breathe” simultaneously.

Not really. The breathing effect costs a lot of power. Instead of just powering the LEDs (0.03 to 0.90 mA), it requires keeping the MCU awake to pulse the emitters on and off fast enough that it looks like it’s dimming. The MCU by itself requires several times as much power as the LEDs (2 to 6 mA). So “breathing” mode would be less bright and have only a fraction as much runtime.

You could make it “breathe” by changing the firmware, but I don’t think it would be worthwhile.

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A point to ponder…

The availability of the Samsungs to date shows us only about mid range output levels. The binning goes up to “W” and then in increments of 1 all the way to 9… I used U6 bin so as you can see, there is a lot more to be discovered from Samsung while Cree is being left behind. The XP-L2’s are not very pretty for flashlights.

Given a disregard for CRI clarity, there are some significantly more powerful Samsung’s available that easily match the Cree XP-L2 in output, showing over 2000 lumens per emitter. I opted for the 80 CRI in 5000K tint to achieve some of the best of both worlds, but am seriously considering going for some of their top bins available just to see what gives. Wink I mean, sure, 5920 lumens sounds really nice and all, but it’s only a measly 1480 lumens per emitter, now on the other hand if I’d left smaller wires in place and purposely limited high current draw then it would be easier on the light, give a more efficient output and in a very pleasing tint with high color rendering. So perhaps it’s time we look at quality a lot harder than quantity.

I know, right? Wink

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zeroflow wrote:
Gavka wrote:
I’m an absolute newbie. For starters, I would like to learn how to flash new firmware in my D4S. Where did you buy such adapter for the D4S?

Ok. Starting with the basics, assuming everything has to be bought.

1. Buying the hardware

First you need the programmer itself, an USB ASP Programmer.
The original can be found here https://www.fischl.de/usbasp/ while you can find it cheaper on Aliexpress or on Amazon
For the D4 or other boards without the nice connectors, you will need an SOIC8 programming clip to connect to the chip

Also, to get nearly any kind of connection, I suggest a set of Dupoint connectors
You will use this cable to make connections between the Pins of the programmer and either the clip or the D4S programming pads.

2. Connections
Now lets look at the available connections, with an example for the D4S.
You have the programmer

And you have the D4S

Now you take the female-male dupont cables and connect it the following way:

USBasp -> D4S
GND (any) to V- (top left)
MOSI to MO
RST to RS
SCK to SC
MISO to MI
VCC to V+ (bottom right)

The result may look like this

(for the BLF Q8 ,D4 or so, you do the same thing but with the connector of the clip. But that’s out of scope for now)

3. Flashing itself

Get the hex-file from here: http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/ – take the latest date of anduril for your light
Tutorial for avrdude is here: http://www.ladyada.net/learn/avr/avrdude.html

Short version of the tutorial:

  • Download hex from toykeeper.net
  • Download avrdude
  • Run this command: avrdude.exe -p attiny85 -c usbasp -Uflash:w:anduril.YYYY-MM-DD.EMISAR_D4S.hex:a

I want to say thank you for putting this all together…. Along with Toymaker providing updated configs, it really helps people like me getting into the hobby of flashing flashlights.

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Ah, but is this one a good candidate to flash? Will Anduril run the auxillary lights?

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Yes, currently it’s the best one since you can flash it without a full disassembly.

And yes, aux LEDs work but they have different shortcuts to change the modes

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TK must’ve upgraded Anduril since my last download.

I had the D4S fully disassembled in short order, flashing the MCU wouldn’t be a problem and I’ve thought about upgrading the FET as well but haven’t yet. I’m already set up to flash MMU boards so plugging in to the D4S driver shouldn’t be difficult either, just want to find out if the auxillary led’s are fully supported before I change anything. I keep messing up and going into Tactical momentary lockout as I’m used to 4 clicks doing lockout on Anduril . Ugh.

Edit: Now running Anduril-D4S. Wondering where to find a diagram on how to tune the auxillary LED’s, can’t seem to locate that… Thank you once again TK, awesome work and very much appreciated!

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When I flashed Anduril it seemed simplest to remove the driver to do so. In the process I went ahead and tried to tone it down a bit and swapped the 18ga leads put in yesterday for smaller 20ga Teflon coated leads. This ended up with a whole 276 lumen drop, so not enough to even notice. Oh well. An attempt was made… lol

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DB Custom wrote:
Ah, but is this one a good candidate to flash? Will Anduril run the auxillary lights?

Yes, I got Anduril working first, then created RampingIOS V3 by removing and rearranging things until it matched Hank’s spec.

DB Custom wrote:
Now running Anduril-D4S. Wondering where to find a diagram on how to tune the auxillary LED’s,

Same as the Q8: (Q8 and GT builds of Anduril, or anything with a lighted button)

  1. Go to lockout mode.
  2. To change aux LED behavior…
    • Click 3 times to change lockout mode aux LED settings.
    • Click 3 times and hold the last press to change “off” mode aux LED settings. Release when it gets to the setting you want.

The modes are: off, low, high, or blinking.

Compared to a Q8, the main firmware difference is that the aux LEDs won’t turn on unless the main LEDs are off.

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DB Custom wrote:
I’m already set up to flash MMU boards so plugging in to the D4S driver shouldn’t be difficult …

Is it a MMU-style chip now? I haven’t taken the driver out of mine yet to look…

This isn’t as good as Lexel’s flashing adapter, but I found the D4S was pretty easy to reflash with a usbasp, a ribbon cable, and some solid-core wire:

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what gauge wire are you putting in the flash holes?

Thanks!

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I merely meant that I have wires set up for the board that flashes the MMU for a 10mm driver. So I have tinned wires set up on the USB ASP. They’re set up in a 4×2 arrangement though, not the 3×3 of the Emisar D4S, so it would still require some finagling for me to be able to flash it in the light, hence why I pulled the driver to flash it. Meant to also change the FET but did not, having some issues today not flashlight related…

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Thank you for pointing me at that UI. I had already figured out the triple clicks to change levels in lockout but forgot about the “hold” for on-time use. prc8 it.

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Man Without Shadow wrote:
Confused…
The Q8 with stock narsil … Or the Q8 with anduril …?

Also, what gauge wire are you putting in the flash holes?

With Anduril. NarsilM doesn’t have those settings.

I’m not sure what gauge the wires are. I found it in a drawer long ago, and there is no label anywhere. I’m guessing 26 gauge. Maybe 24.

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DB Custom wrote:
forgot about the “hold” for on-time use. prc8 it.

I should probably add it to the diagram somewhere, but there isn’t a good place to put it… and it’s only relevant to some of the supported hosts. So it remains sort of hidden.

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Those guesses are good enough to keep my scavenging to a minimum…

assuming bare male jumper pins are too big?

Thanks!

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zeroflow wrote:
Also, to get nearly any kind of connection, I suggest a set of Dupoint connectors

Have you verified that these DuPont pins will fit in the programming holes of the D4S? Because all of my DuPont connector pins are too fat for the holes drilled in the D4S board, and I had to build a programming harness with some solderless bread board jumpers that did fit.

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I was originally going to use some jumper pins, but I couldn’t find any in my parts bins. So I used some random wire I found instead.

Hopefully Lexel’s flashing connector will become pretty standard soon, but for now things are a bit more ad-hoc. I refer to the pinouts in flashlightwiki whenever I flash the D4S. This is fine for one-time or occasional flashing, but inconvenient during development. So I still do most of my development on a decapitated Emisar D4 with its brains hanging out. It works fine as long as I don’t need to do thermal testing or hardware-specific stuff.

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The command: avrdude -p t13 -c usbasp -u -e will erase the contents of the chip so that it can be re-written to. Finally, flash the driver with the new firmware: (change the star.hex part to whatever you named your .hex file) avrdude -p t13 -c usbasp -u -Uflash:w:star.hex:a -Ulfuse:w:0x75:m -Uhfuse:w:0xFF:m Be mindful of the value of the fuses; they may change from firmware to firmware. In the above example, the “low fuse” is 0×75 and the “high fuse” is 0xff. Generally all firmwares will state the proper fuse values in the .c file.

 

Are fuse considerations/command for flashing the D4S?

 

or just the "avrdude.exe -p attiny85 -c usbasp -Uflash:w:anduril.2018-08-22.EMISAR_D4S.hex:a"  command as is?

 

thanks!

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Man Without Shadow wrote:
The command: avrdude -p t13 -c usbasp -u -e will erase the contents of the chip so that it can be re-written to.

Don’t do that. It’s unnecessary and it risks bricking the MCU. Hoop should really remove that part of the tutorial.

Also, don’t use “-p t13” on a tiny85. It can also cause problems.

I recommend using bin/flash-85.sh, or copying the command in that script and replacing the filename.

Man Without Shadow wrote:
Be mindful of the value of the fuses; they may change from firmware to firmware. In the above example, the “low fuse” is 0×75 and the “high fuse” is 0xff. Generally all firmwares will state the proper fuse values in the .c file.

Are fuse considerations/command for flashing the D4S?

Some firmwares specify fuses within, and sometimes what they specify isn’t correct. I’ve tried to include a flash.sh script inside any project with non-default settings, and otherwise it’s probably best to use one of the bin/flash*.sh scripts matching the MCU type.

I should probably go through the entire repository sometime to check that the comments at the top of each file are actually correct, because some of them aren’t. In some cases, it’s just copy/pasted from another project and was never updated.

In any case, there is no need to erase the ROM before writing new data. At best, it’s redundant. And at worst, a couple people reported that the chip wouldn’t respond any more afterward.

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Thanks for the caution.

The problem for me is I’ve read all the flashing posts, and have yet to find a succinct step by step foolproof process for a particular light that didn’t also include general flashing info—that might be useful to someone who knows what they are doing—or what all the specific flags and commands mean. I know zero about this and just hope to find the simplest way to flash my DS4 (as it has easy access to the driver and anduril is so alluring).

Just ordered the ribbon cable and the usbisp and hope to try it soon!

Thank you!

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Mine always performs the erase command before flashing and I’ve yet to brick an MCU, which probably means the next one I flash will jam up big time! I’ve only built a few hundred drivers though, so I’m still pretty new to all this.

Since the code formatting changed I don’t make any adjustments at all. I used to change power levels and such in the A6 firmware, but somewhere along the way the code started looking like an instruction manual for flying Alien spacecraft so I leave it strictly alone now.

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Man Without Shadow wrote:
a succinct step by step foolproof process for a particular light … D4S … Anduril

This is about as short as possible, for someone who hasn’t done it before. I wouldn’t call it foolproof though:

  1. Get a usbasp device, a ribbon cable, and some solid-core wire or jumper pins which fit into the D4S flashing holes. Hardware links are available at the Link in my signature.
  2. Install avrdude.
  3. Download a pre-compiled .hex file for the D4S. Whatever is most recent here.
  4. Connect the usbasp to the D4S driver using the ribbon cable and pins, according to the pinouts listed in the wiki.
  5. Run “bin/flash-85.sh anduril.DATE.EMISAR_D4S.hex“ or, in Windows, copy the command inside of flash-85.sh, replace the filename, and run it.

If avrdude reports success, you’re done! Pull the pins out and use the light.

For other lights, the instructions are similar except they involve a SOIC8 clip instead of jumper pins, and they often involve un-soldering things in order to make the driver accessible.

With Lexel’s flashing key, it replaces the jumper pins and eliminates the need to look up pinouts. Acquiring a key might be tricky, but it makes flashing very quick and easy.

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DB Custom wrote:
somewhere along the way the code started looking like an instruction manual for flying Alien spacecraft

Sorry about that.

I noticed things were getting pretty messy too, so I tried to clean it up by locking the spaghetti in a box. Here’s an example of how it looks afterward… an implementation of the UI from Olight’s Baton series:

http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/baton.c

Of course, Anduril is more complicated… but even with that, I’ve tried to make it relatively easy to customize by commenting out lines at the top which enable or disable features.

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Wow…thanks!

I get the mechanics…putting pins in things, plugging in cables…good at running windows programs…
Hardware ordered…links to what I bought (no clip for now…will scrounge up some solid-core wire):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077×7MKHN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AX4WQ00/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s...

(assuming the usbisp will not need new firmware or any jumper changes)

I must admit: Run “bin/flash-85.sh anduril.DATE.EMISAR_D4S.hex“ or, in Windows, copy the command inside of flash-85.sh, replace the filename, and run it.

confuses me.

I know to replace the file name with “anduril.2018-08-22.EMISAR_D4S.hex”

But the “run” command (in a command prompt window?) and the “flash-85.sh” (thats in a avrdude windows program)?
Perhaps it will make more sense when I actually have the items in hand and can play around with the hardware/avrdude.

Appreciate all the specific help!

Thanks!

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Man Without Shadow wrote:
I must admit: Run “bin/flash-85.sh anduril.DATE.EMISAR_D4S.hex“ or, in Windows, copy the command inside of flash-85.sh, replace the filename, and run it.

confuses me.

I know to replace the file name with “anduril.2018-08-22.EMISAR_D4S.hex”

But the “run” command (in a command prompt window?) and the “flash-85.sh” (thats in a avrdude windows program)?
Perhaps it will make more sense when I actually have the items in hand and can play around with the hardware/avrdude.

That part is different depending on which OS you use. I’m using a Linux-based OS, so I’ve been using shell scripts for a lot of things. I run “flash-85.sh anduril.hex“ and it works. The current contents of “flash-85.sh” are:

#/bin/sh
FIRMWARE=$1
avrdude -c usbasp -p t85 -u -U lfuse:w:0xe2:m -U hfuse:w:0xdf:m -U efuse:w:0xff:m -Uflash:w:$FIRMWARE

So on Windows, instead of “flash85.sh anduril.hex“, it would be more like this: avrdude -c usbasp -p t85 -u -U lfuse:w:0xe2:m -U hfuse:w:0xdf:m -U efuse:w:0xff:m -Uflash:w:anduril.hex

This happens at a command prompt. Alternately, you could find a GUI wrapper for avrdude, and use the mouse. Or convert the shell script into a Windows .BAT batch file.

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Great info!

I’m gonna try eXtreme Burner- AVR (GUI)

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