Maybe I should buy a kit, just to be on the safe side in case I kill the MCPCBā¦
I have never soldered a LED (neither flowed nor re-flowedā¦)
Maybe I should start with something cheaper than a XHP70ā¦
Maybe I should buy a kit, just to be on the safe side in case I kill the MCPCBā¦
I have never soldered a LED (neither flowed nor re-flowedā¦)
Maybe I should start with something cheaper than a XHP70ā¦
Yeah, find a cheap light and upgrade the LED in that to start with, it is not that hard but better to ruin a cheap $2 XP-G3 or similar LED over a $15 XHP70.2
I have never soldered a LED (neither flowed nor re-flowedā¦)
Maybe I should start with something cheaper than a XHP70ā¦
Thereās lots of videos on YouTube showing how to do it. Check out Old Lumens and AdventureSportFlashlights in particular.
I havenāt tried it myself either, but I probably will one of these days.
I retested the 30q in addition to the 35e. Both were fresh off the charger at 4.20v Each battery set had less than 5 cycles of 5 mins or less on them.
I let the light cool about 15 mins between tests. Light engine was cool to the touch at the second test start.
Same carriers used both times as well (both the correct GT70 carriers with the thicker aluminum) compared to the OG GT carriers.
30q
Start lumens 8,388
30 second lumens 7,14735e
Start lumens 7,848
30 second lumens 7,087Startup was about 6% lower with the 35e
30 seconds was about 0.8% lower
Thatās actually very good! Iām happy now. Wonāt be buying the 30q set then. At least not for now. Thank you Nkresho!
Blf gt 70 with 30q. 6240 lumen
Blf gt 70 lg Mj1. 6200 lumen
I only test for like 5 secondsā¦ so I think Samsung 35e should be fineā¦
Thank you too Newlumen! Very much appreciated. Letās put them 35Es to work!
Texas_Ace:In other news I just got word that the Neutral white GT70 will be ready soon along with the conversion kits.
The final Neutral while LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 led
The final Neutral White LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 LED
:+1: ā¦ Looks good except possibly for that āCā part. ā¦
ā¦ā¦. Oh well, canāt have it all I guess.
P2 bin is the highest right? Thatās good. What does the āCā means?
Yes, P2 is the highest bin.
The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.
Yes, P2 is the highest bin.
The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.
Will the dedoming worsen this? Or will make it better?
Texas_Ace:Yes, P2 is the highest bin.
The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.
Will the dedoming worsen this? Or will make it better?
It will tint shift warmer and a bit yellow / green. So it will get worse, how much I canāt say as all LEDās seem to dedome a little differnt and will depend on the person.
If you plan to dedome I would go with the CW or replace the LED with something of your choosing while you are doing it.
Maverick1947: Texas_Ace:Yes, P2 is the highest bin.
The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.
Will the dedoming worsen this? Or will make it better?
It will tint shift warmer and a bit yellow / green. So it will get worse, how much I canāt say as all LEDās seem to dedome a little differnt and will depend on the person.
If you plan to dedome I would go with the CW or replace the LED with something of your choosing while you are doing it.
Now Iām really in doubt. I donāt like CW in any of my lights. I have a DX80 just for the sake of raw output, but really hate the tint. I wish I could get two MCPCBs with the different LEDs to test it out. I have a L6 with the N2 3A and really like the tint.
teacher: Texas_Ace:In other news I just got word that the Neutral white GT70 will be ready soon along with the conversion kits.
The final Neutral while LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 led
The final Neutral White LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 LED
:+1: ā¦ Looks good except possibly for that āCā part. ā¦
ā¦ā¦. Oh well, canāt have it all I guess.
P2 bin is the highest right? Thatās good. What does the āCā means?
Yes, P2 is the highest bin.
The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.
Yepā¦ what TA said.
Take a look at the tint chart below. Notice the B & C tints are above the dotted black line (BBL). They both lean toward the green tints. The further above the line the greener.
The A & D tints fall below the BBL and lean toward a rosier tint. The further below the BBL the rosier.
Now Iām really in doubt. I donāt like CW in any of my lights. I have a DX80 just for the sake of raw output, but really hate the tint. I wish I could get two MCPCBs with the different LEDs to test it out. I have a L6 with the N2 3A and really like the tint.
I would say the best option is to simply order an LED you know you would like from another source in your case and install it before converting the light.
I think KD has some A and D tints available IIRC.
Maverick1947: teacher: Texas_Ace:In other news I just got word that the Neutral white GT70 will be ready soon along with the conversion kits.
The final Neutral while LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 led
The final Neutral White LED will be a 5000k XHP70B-3C-P2 LED
:+1: ā¦ Looks good except possibly for that āCā part. ā¦
ā¦ā¦. Oh well, canāt have it all I guess.
P2 bin is the highest right? Thatās good. What does the āCā means?
Texas_Ace:Yes, P2 is the highest bin.
The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.
Yepā¦ what TA said.
Take a look at the tint chart below. Notice the B & C tints are above the dotted black line (BBL). They both lean toward the green tints. The further above the line the greener.
The A & D tints fall below the BBL and lean toward a rosier tint. The further below the BBL the rosier.
Hmm I see. My L6 is 3A. Maybe thatās why I like it. Well. Now I will just do a little more research to try and decide it.
Thanks teacher.
Maverick1947:Now Iām really in doubt. I donāt like CW in any of my lights. I have a DX80 just for the sake of raw output, but really hate the tint. I wish I could get two MCPCBs with the different LEDs to test it out. I have a L6 with the N2 3A and really like the tint.
I would say the best option is to simply order an LED you know you would like from another source in your case and install it before converting the light.
I think KD has some A and D tints available IIRC.
Yeah. Maybe Iāll need to learn how to reflow LEDs. Iāll try and find some different LEDs on china. Thanks TA
Texas_Ace: Maverick1947:Now Iām really in doubt. I donāt like CW in any of my lights. I have a DX80 just for the sake of raw output, but really hate the tint. I wish I could get two MCPCBs with the different LEDs to test it out. I have a L6 with the N2 3A and really like the tint.
I would say the best option is to simply order an LED you know you would like from another source in your case and install it before converting the light.
I think KD has some A and D tints available IIRC.
Yeah. Maybe Iāll need to learn how to reflow LEDs. Iāll try and find some different LEDs on china. Thanks TA
This is what I do to basically every light I get anyways, I think I can count the lights with the factory LEDās on one hand lol.
I retested the 30q in addition to the 35e. Both were fresh off the charger at 4.20v Each battery set had less than 5 cycles of 5 mins or less on them.
I let the light cool about 15 mins between tests. Light engine was cool to the touch at the second test start.
Same carriers used both times as well (both the correct GT70 carriers with the thicker aluminum) compared to the OG GT carriers.
30q
Start lumens 8,388
30 second lumens 7,14735e
Start lumens 7,848
30 second lumens 7,087Startup was about 6% lower with the 35e
30 seconds was about 0.8% lower
Thanks broā¦ your lumen specs are really helpful.
I was a little surprised that the output tapered so close after just 30 seconds. Initially the 30q have quite the spike in output, but they fall off pretty fast.
Single emitter with so many cells had to be a factor too. Differences between, say, a 30q and a vtc5a are pretty noticeable on a triple emitter single cell light. Itās more when you approach the current limit of the high drain cells that you see the higher output from them.
Happy to help.
It also has a lot to do with the heat. The first 30 seconds of losses are largely a matter of things heating up and that causing a reduction in output if I had to guess. The 30Q gives it more power but it also heats up more, so it seems to balance out.
I was a little surprised that the output tapered so close after just 30 seconds. Initially the 30q have quite the spike in output, but they fall off pretty fast.
Single emitter with so many cells had to be a factor too. Differences between, say, a 30q and a vtc5a are pretty noticeable on a triple emitter single cell light. Itās more when you approach the current limit of the high drain cells that you see the higher output from them.
Right, if we assume the GT70 draws 10A at 12v, then with 8 cells itās only 5A per cell. If you only use 4 cells itās 10A per cell.
The difference in voltage sag between the 35E and the 30Q is not so big at 5A, but at 10A the gap gets bigger.
I think 4A and 8A is probably closer to reality, but I use 5 and 10 because we can see that in this load chart from HKJ.
.
I was a little surprised that the output tapered so close after just 30 seconds. Initially the 30q have quite the spike in output, but they fall off pretty fast.
Single emitter with so many cells had to be a factor too. Differences between, say, a 30q and a vtc5a are pretty noticeable on a triple emitter single cell light. Itās more when you approach the current limit of the high drain cells that you see the higher output from them.
Happy to help.
Even with the sony vtc5a, the lumen drop fast from 0 sec to 30 seconds.