In what distance did you measure the light? You need to be further away compared to the same light with XP-G2 because the LED is smaller.
There might also be another reason. Itās possible that the lens of the Brinyte is not precise enough for such a small LED. You could check this by putting the light into full focus and looking straight at it from a few meters away. The entire lens needs to be yellow (or lit up).
If itās not, then a fix would be to add a pre-collimator. It makes the LED seem twice as big which āmakes it easierā for the lens.
I measured at 7 meter, but an aspheric flashlight measures well at shorter distance just as well.
The Brinyte plastic lens is one of the best I have seen, and much better than any glass lens that I have encountered in various flashlights. The die image is very crisp, if the lens was imperfect you would see the imperfect focus coming from the lens part that gives different focus or chromatic abberations superimposed over the sharp die image. But you donāt see any of that.
Some recent testing with L4Pās Oslon board mafe me realise how sensitive specifically the overdriven Black Flat is for imperfect heatsinking, I really think that it is likely that something like that happened at the time.
So, having seen some interesting results from new builds with the Black Flat I just ordered my first ones. Iām thinking about putting 4 in the Sofirn Q8, any reason that wonāt work? I donāt need this light to be a lumens boss, but a throwy performance might be very interestingā¦
They have a very small tab on the outside of each pad, positive and negative, these make up for the 2 additional āpinsā so they call it a 5 pin. It mounts the same as all the XP/Nichia/Samsung 3 slot footprints. (got this on the data sheet)
If the grounded thermal pad is the only drawback, that can be dealt with. I have Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive to make a āmaskā between the emitter shelf and MCPCB, I can make polycarbonate screws if need be to ensure the MCPCB doesnāt ground through the mounts. Or I can get ceramic screws. Or nylon ones, whatever. Donāt even need the screws if the MCPCB is glued down in the first placeā¦
djozz? Only 600 lumens per Black Flat? Conservative isnāt it? Reckon Iāll find out, should have the emitters here by end of week and the Sofirn Q8 is en-routeā¦ as are new boards from Neven. Of course, the original MCPCB should work fine hereā¦
If during curing of the thermal glue you connect led+ on the ledboard and the Q8 housing to a small power source (I use a led-tester for that), the Black Flats will light up if you have a short between ledboard and housing, so you still have time to correct before the glue is hardened.
The only danger even if the thermal pad grounds out is not having modes, same as shorting the negative lead, so itās not really that big a deal overall anyway. Thanks though, I know to take precaution so it should work out all right. Thinking about using a similar light and putting 9 of em in.
I like the Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive because it can be removed through application of heat.
What are your thoughts on this? http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/13-minus-pad-8-en
I already posted this in another thread. I bought a 0.5mm sheet of this and will be testing it in a Tool AA with an Oslon. You think itās too thick for good thermal contact? I think with a screwed down MCPCB it should become very thin, as itās very elastic. At least it has the same thermal conductivity as Arctic Silver 5.