You live in the US right?
Here are the steps necessary:
1. Remove the protection circuit and wrap to get a bare cell.
2. Get these 18650 heatshrink wraps:
3. Rewrap them inside. Use a heat source to make them smaller, and voilà! You’ve got a rewrapped NCR18650B.
no i live in Indonesia haha. anyways. do i need to rewrap it ? since you know … it still has the green thingy stuck to the bare metal on the battery. so it should be fine right?
Just wrap the bare metal with transparent tape if you really want to remove it.
Actually, just don’t remove the protection circuit.
The Sofirn SP36 will still be much brighter than any light you’ve got at 4000 lumens, even with protected NCR18650Bs.
yeah … i wont remove the PCB’s if the light doesnt trip the PCB’s. but if it trips it. gonna need to remove them PCB’s i guess. what i meant by “is it gonna be just fine ?” is… will the battery be fine? like i guess it should be able to sustain 7-10amps just fine right?
I don't mean to be rude at all, so please don't feel offended but maybe this whole "PCB removal" topic should be discussed separately. We've been talking about the suitability of NCR18650Bs for two pages now and I have the impression we've got stuck here and lost focus on the actual flashlight.
Yeah I understand. Sorry for spamming the thread with batteries and PCBs . Anyways. Regarding the flashlight. How is it? Does it has good battery life on turbo? And how’s the heat management? It’s good??
The first few pages of this thread provide a lot of information. Djozz posted pretty detailed info in the first few pages, and I filled in a little more data on pages 4 and 5. Heat management info is included.
Thanks!!
oh also. just making sure before i use unprotected cells later when it arrives… this flashlight have all protections right? low voltage protection, overcharge protection (type c) etc? thanks. also .its weird. i’ve done some research on the differences between the protected and unprotected NCR18650B . it seems like the protected one has much more sag in voltage than the unprotected one… huh. interesting.
edit : the difference is about 0.1-0.2volt on 5A . huh. i wonder if it’s effects on lumens output is big or even noticable…
Again, depends on the cell's protection circuit and all PC's are provided by after market vendors, not the battery manufacturers so there is great variance out there.
If you bought them from a source with no specs on the PC and relatively cheap, then probably they are the worse and higher resistance/voltage drop.
again, see this page: https://liionwholesale.com/collections/batteries/products/protected-panasonic-sanyo-ncr18650ga-button-top?variant=12534255236
See the details? Quite comprehensive - a vendor that knows, and he's got great support. Some of the name brand cells (higher end flashlight makers) have protected circuits that are above 10 amps now, but the cells will be about $15 each or so.
huh i see. anyways 0.1-0.2 volts. is it enough to like reduce the brightness by 500lumens?
Dunno off hand, possibility. Small voltage results is significant results for amps.
ahh i see. okay i think its better to just remove the pcb. it should be much better. also . just to make sure. SP36 has all the protection needed right? the low voltage . overcharge (type c) etc? thanks for answering my nooby questions hehe
Of course low voltage protection (LVP), but I never heard of overcharge (type c) in a flashlight - wut is that?
Ohh, you mean for the charging circuitry - I know nothing about it. Even though I wrote the firmware, I've had 0 involvement in this product, 0 contact with Sofirn about it.
I ordered a SP36 from the Ali store, like everyone else, paid $52.95 with a small discount (forgot from where), and am waiting like forever for a tracking update - last update from Dec 5th.
Wrong choices of words haha. Basically when it’s full it’ll stop charging. It should be implemented . Dumb me for asking haha. Btw just searched for 30q pin top etc and nada… No results in my country’s shops . Oh also. There used to be pin top 10A protected GA here. Idk where it’s gone. Now sellers just sell the flat top ones. I was thinking if they still sell em. I can just remove the PCB and I’ll get unprotected button top. But yeah no go. I don’t want to go to the solder route because I’m not good at it and I don’t know if the added resistance is worth it. Anyways thanks for answering 
Wait what? I bought it a week ago (I think) it’s been shipped and the tracking changed to departed country of origin. So it should be on the way here.
my SP36 is arriving soon. What 30Qs do I need to buy: button top or flat top?
Thanks in advance.
button top 
Oh, you’re gonna like it!
Thank you!