Why 7135s on the driver in maukka’s picture are in such unusual position? AFAIK it’s not good for heat dissipation.
What do you mean? The way I understood it, the driver has eight 7135 regulators in total – there is only limited space available on the PCB so six of those are located at the bottom (spring side) of the double-sided PCB. Where else would you put them?
They don’t actually dissipate all that much power – when all eight are 100% on, I’d assume the driver dissipating around 2.5 W total (worst case) when the battery is at 4.2 V.
What is probably meant is that the 7135 chips are orientated 90 degrees different from usual, what makes the thermal pads not facing the ground ring anymore and thus the heat has a worse path to the flashlight body.
Those 7135 chips are pretty tough though and I expect that they can handle this.
I I might set up a Patreon account or something. If I do though, I want to make it clear that it’s just me, not a team thing. I don’t know if I could send money to Fritz if I tried, nor do I know if he would want me to. Past attempts to do a team-funding thing haven’t really gone well either, so any donation thingies will probably be done on an individual basis with no illusion that it’s for everyone.
ToyKeeper, I would like to donate a small gift to show my appreciation. Where do I send it? Thanks.
Maukka! Very nice beam shots and comparison! It’s really cool to open both pictures and click back and forth in full screen to compare….so cool to watch the minute differences in shadows etc. Looks as though the D4 beam is ever so slightly wider, which makes sense…but not much wider. Unless the angle of the lights was just a touch different when pics were taken (can see shadow of small twig on lower right in foreground move up and back just a bit…like the D4 was just an inch or 2 more forward than the FW….but again..probably just the wider beam of the D4).
I’m babbling…sorry…again…THANK YOU! Very nice shots and comparison.
—
John 1:5 "The Light shines in the darkness, and the darkness did not comprehend it."
Lens, window, now optic. I hope this doesn’t drive the price up.
TIRlens is $30 TIRoptic is $35
choose wisely ;D
Hoping someone post some beam shots before I decide
I was joking lol, based on the discussion on what to call the Carclo and the glass pane in front of it… it was always planned to have a triple Carclo TIR optic and a glass window/lens in front for protection. So no, none of this discussion would drive the price up
I’m getting really hyped for this now! I have a couple of questions about the FW3A that I’m curious to know answers to. If anybody can chip in with their wisdom, it would be much appreciated!
1) If we were to compare the FW3A to a similarly sized flashlight known for efficiency, such as the Zebralight SC64, would the FW3A be roughly as efficient? One of the main reasons I’m hyped is because of the higher regulation on the FW3A vs an Emisar D4, but I’m not very well versed in how it all works so I’m trying to gauge efficiency by using examples of well known flashlight models in the community.
2) In ToyKeeper’s Emisar D4 review, she listed all of the ramping steps. These seem to be the same on the Emisar D4S and I was able to use them to configure my D4S’ stepped levels very specifically. Will these steps also be the same on the FW3A, as it is running Anduril? I’d like to be able to set my ramp ceiling right at the highest regulated mode for efficiency, and it is nice to know where that is exactly.
Many thanks to everyone on the FW3A team. What a fantastic device you have conceived!
Thanks folks, I remember reading the original specs quite some time ago, but can’t remember the specifics now. Unfortunately, I didn’t realise at the time there was a link to the specific carclo optic used, and I’m nowhere near technically proficient enough to know this stuff offhand. Thanks for the help.
As someone else mentioned, I’d be keen to buy a spare clear optic if this became an option. It does sound though from what Toykeeper, Jason and everyone is saying the original optic is the way to go.
1. The Zebralight would still be more efficient than buck/boost driver. LED efficiency would be better than a single 3V emitter light, but driver efficiency will not be as good.
2. It should be higher since it’s using a 1+7+FET driver, instead of 3+FET.
Wow chadvone, looks like your in the middle of a ‘Deep Freeze’.. Your whole state is below 0° for the whole day today…. .. I imagine you are well aware of that tidbit of info though. .
It is much warmer in most of Alaska than Iowa, as well as most of the Midwest USA today.
Turn those lights to TURBO & keep those hands warm….
Good luck & hope the pipes don’t freeze & burst.
Edit:….. “below 0° “ = Below Zero Degrees Fahrenheit ( 0° F ). As in —18, —11, —9, —17, and so on for their High temps today. Lows tonight will be in the negative (-) 20’s & 30’s F. .
It hurts me even thinking about that….
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
I really love the Eagle Eye X6 flashlight, have far too many of them… all in different configurations. I priced an AR coated Sapphire “Window” in 35mm at $195 each. Having a “window” could indeed drive the price WAY up!
Lens, window, now optic. I hope this doesn’t drive the price up.
Shouldn’t do, as there will just be the plastic optic and glass window, no lens so we’re saving on that
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
TIR lens is $30
TIR optic is $35
choose wisely ;D
What is probably meant is that the 7135 chips are orientated 90 degrees different from usual, what makes the thermal pads not facing the ground ring anymore and thus the heat has a worse path to the flashlight body.
Those 7135 chips are pretty tough though and I expect that they can handle this.
link to djozz tests
Lens, as in; my FW3A will have an AR coated lens.
Window, as in; my house & car both have windows.
Optic, as in; my FW3A will have a Carlco 10511 optic.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Anyone have a photo or video comparison of the 2 emitters being used? Would be nice to compare side by side.
Is it too early to say, “oooohhh imagine how nice a FW3A in 26650 format with a quad would be….”
Yup, so early as to say “how nice it is in the 18350 format”
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
When it’s ready, how do we purchase this? Aliexpress?
Hoping someone post some beam shots before I decide
I’m down for 1 XP-L
ToyKeeper, I would like to donate a small gift to show my appreciation. Where do I send it? Thanks.
Interested – please add me to the list
No i think through Neal again, gt mini worked so atleast. ali is never used for group buys here.
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
Nice pictures Maukka.
It looks cold where you are.
Looks like Iowa. Thank you.
Great shots. They make me miss the snow, for a minute.
I am interested in the xpl-hi version. Is someone able to add me? Thanks.
Maukka! Very nice beam shots and comparison! It’s really cool to open both pictures and click back and forth in full screen to compare….so cool to watch the minute differences in shadows etc. Looks as though the D4 beam is ever so slightly wider, which makes sense…but not much wider. Unless the angle of the lights was just a touch different when pics were taken (can see shadow of small twig on lower right in foreground move up and back just a bit…like the D4 was just an inch or 2 more forward than the FW….but again..probably just the wider beam of the D4).
I’m babbling…sorry…again…THANK YOU! Very nice shots and comparison.
John 1:5 "The Light shines in the darkness, and the darkness did not comprehend it."
I was joking lol, based on the discussion on what to call the Carclo and the glass pane in front of it… it was always planned to have a triple Carclo TIR optic and a glass window/lens in front for protection. So no, none of this discussion would drive the price up
Snow is proof that where you are is too darn cold!
How to Post Images on BLF // Many knives for sale (USA only)
How to move a thread
That is a very good way to put it. Been there, done that.
I’m getting really hyped for this now! I have a couple of questions about the FW3A that I’m curious to know answers to. If anybody can chip in with their wisdom, it would be much appreciated!
1) If we were to compare the FW3A to a similarly sized flashlight known for efficiency, such as the Zebralight SC64, would the FW3A be roughly as efficient? One of the main reasons I’m hyped is because of the higher regulation on the FW3A vs an Emisar D4, but I’m not very well versed in how it all works so I’m trying to gauge efficiency by using examples of well known flashlight models in the community.
2) In ToyKeeper’s Emisar D4 review, she listed all of the ramping steps. These seem to be the same on the Emisar D4S and I was able to use them to configure my D4S’ stepped levels very specifically. Will these steps also be the same on the FW3A, as it is running Anduril? I’d like to be able to set my ramp ceiling right at the highest regulated mode for efficiency, and it is nice to know where that is exactly.
Many thanks to everyone on the FW3A team. What a fantastic device you have conceived!
I gotta tell ya, this is pretty terrific!
Thanks folks, I remember reading the original specs quite some time ago, but can’t remember the specifics now. Unfortunately, I didn’t realise at the time there was a link to the specific carclo optic used, and I’m nowhere near technically proficient enough to know this stuff offhand. Thanks for the help.
As someone else mentioned, I’d be keen to buy a spare clear optic if this became an option. It does sound though from what Toykeeper, Jason and everyone is saying the original optic is the way to go.
@Klayking
1. The Zebralight would still be more efficient than buck/boost driver. LED efficiency would be better than a single 3V emitter light, but driver efficiency will not be as good.
2. It should be higher since it’s using a 1+7+FET driver, instead of 3+FET.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
I imagine you are well aware of that tidbit of info though..It is much warmer in most of Alaska than Iowa, as well as most of the Midwest USA today.
Turn those lights to TURBO & keep those hands warm….
Good luck & hope the pipes don’t freeze & burst.
Edit:….. “below 0° “ = Below Zero Degrees Fahrenheit ( 0° F ). As in —18, —11, —9, —17, and so on for their High temps today. Lows tonight will be in the negative (-) 20’s & 30’s F. .
It hurts me even thinking about that….
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
^ Thanks teacher.
I really love the Eagle Eye X6 flashlight, have far too many of them… all in different configurations. I priced an AR coated Sapphire “Window” in 35mm at $195 each. Having a “window” could indeed drive the price WAY up!
Posted my review in a separate thread: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/65619
Pages