Jason is correct. It has been talked about previously in this thread that the light would not work correctly without the clip.
Do I remember exactly where that was discussed? Nope.
If I can find it without to much trouble I’ll post a link.
But I have read every post & it has been discussed.
That is why there has been the “back and forth” about gluing the tailcap.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Even more confusion. In the TLF they are talking about the light not working without the clip because it works as a spacer for the tail cap(?). If that’s the case it might be a good idea to include a spacer ring to replace the clip if someone does not want the clip(?)
In my testing, it works fine without the clip. The clip isn’t even held tight, which is why there’s an extra O-ring there to keep the clip from spinning freely. What Bluzie saw was probably caused by the driver fit issue, not the clip.
I don’t really recommend removing the clip, but it shouldn’t cause any functional issues. It’ll just roll easily, and it leaves a gap which people might want to fill with a thicker O-ring or something.
Anyway, I thought these were meant to be production samples, but it seems they’re not. However, the optic and LED types should be easy to fix by simply waiting for the parts to arrive. The only actual issue I’m concerned about now is making sure the driver can fit into the spot it’s meant to go in, instead of resting on top.
It is meant to fit like this. This is good:
But what I found on mine was this. This is bad:
It can be fixed by removing a little bit more material from one specific spot inside the pill. Even if they’ve already manufactured and anodized the parts, it’s a thing which could still be corrected without throwing the parts away, since that part isn’t supposed to be anodized anyway. And it was done correctly on earlier prototypes, so I think they’ll be able to get it right.
Even more confusion. In the TLF they are talking about the light not working without the clip because it works as a spacer for the tail cap(?). If that’s the case it might be a good idea to include a spacer ring to replace the clip if someone does not want the clip(?)
In my testing, it works fine without the clip. The clip isn’t even held tight, which is why there’s an extra O-ring there to keep the clip from spinning freely. What Bluzie saw was probably caused by the driver fit issue, not the clip.
I don’t really recommend removing the clip, but it shouldn’t cause any functional issues. It’ll just roll easily, and it leaves a gap which people might want to fill with a thicker O-ring or something.
Okay, thanks for confirming that it works. I was just really confused by the argumentation why this should not work (the clip acting as a spacer). Still hoping that glue for the tail cap is opt-out at least if it will ever make it into production lights.
ToyKeeper wrote:
Anyway, I thought these were meant to be production samples, but it seems they’re not. However, the optic and LED types should be easy to fix by simply waiting for the parts to arrive. The only actual issue I’m concerned about now is making sure the driver can fit into the spot it’s meant to go in, instead of resting on top.
It is meant to fit like this. This is good:
But what I found on mine was this. This is bad:
It can be fixed by removing a little bit more material from one specific spot inside the pill. Even if they’ve already manufactured and anodized the parts, it’s a thing which could still be corrected without throwing the parts away, since that part isn’t supposed to be anodized anyway. And it was done correctly on earlier prototypes, so I think they’ll be able to get it right.
Wow, okay, that’s worse than I initially thought it would be. Kind thought it would just not be able to touch the shelf completely, but that is really bad. I really would have thought they would notice that while assembling the prototypes. oO Thanks for the drawing!
In my testing, it works fine without the clip. The clip isn’t even held tight, which is why there’s an extra O-ring there to keep the clip from spinning freely. What Bluzie saw was probably caused by the driver fit issue, not the clip.
Well that is even better. I was remembering that the clip was essential for the proper spacing.
So the reason Lumintop wants to glue the tail is just to keep the switch parts from falling out since there is no retaining ring?
I wonder if they could put a dab of glue on the switch pcb instead of the cap threads? Maybe it would effect the contact between the pcb and the cap? IDK.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
that clip…would that fit on an S2??? I could use a few
I think that clip could be used on a LOT of lights! Been wondering if they’d sell them separately since the first pics were posted, thinking D4, HDS, and a few other larger lights.
It’s a beauty.
The first is flexible (25-30mm), the other 2 are specified as 25.4mm.
The FW3A head is measured at 25.5mm but i am betting this is at the absolute thickest part where the knurling is and that the front of the head is slightly smaller.. (25.4mm??? )
ToyKeeper wrote:
Ideally, I’d like the FW3A diffuser to be nearly identical to the Olight S-Mini diffuser, except scaled up to fit.
The Nitecore (3rd one) looks very close, just not as opaque.
These are prototypes, not production, or even pre-production. Lots of short cuts are made in the proto phase, plus things are not finalized yet.
In the Q8 project, we went through a lot of similar trials/tribulations. Believe me, this is wayyy better they are going slowly rather than rushing this out. You should never see or hear about this problem in something shipped that’s paid for. Early reviewers also see some bad stuff that gets fixed before shipped.
Euhm, wasn’t this suposed to be a (pre-)production light? I believe I read this a couple of pages ago and that TK commented that she believes people of lumintop don’t quite get what a production sample is. Anyway, I’ve learned it’s better to wait until the first batch has been send out and tested by the buyers before placing/paying my order.
I agree. If at all possible, you should wait until someone has tested the production version and not rush to buy it the second it comes available. This should go with any light, but I know it will be hard especially with the FW3A
I’m also hoping there will be a diffuser cone made for it, because I like those and they work well with candle mode.
One of these (or all) probably fits.
The FW3A head is measured at 25.5mm but i am betting this is at the absolute thickest part where the knurling is and that the front of the head is slightly smaller.. (25.4mm??? )
I have a NDF25, actually. It’s … not good. It doesn’t fit well, and it’s virtually transparent. It mostly just sends light out the front, after filtering the light a bit like a prism to make the beam an ugly yellow.
The FW3A diameter is 25.5mm, not 25.4mm, and this is actually enough of a difference to make some 25.4mm cones not fit well.
I’ve tried every diffuser I can find at banggood and fasttech, and a few from independent stores too. I haven’t found one I like, and the closest one so far is the Fenix AOD-S. It’s just slightly too tight, not opaque enough, and an odd shape… but it works at least okay-ish.
Why not drill a hole in a ping-pong ball?
It works very well as a diffuser.
Maybe that’s something they do over in Romania but here in America we like to throw money away at silly pointless “solutions” that don’t work right anyway…
—
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
An exacto knife worked. Pingpong balls have the same flaw as most other diffusors: more light is directed upwards than sideways (with flashlight facing up).
There’s other ways to make holes in thin plastic that don’t involve drills…
Get a Cu pipe slightly smaller than the head diameter of the light, heat it up, let it melt a hole.
Clearly won’t work though, in America ping-pong balls are only used for one thing: adolescents throw them at plastic cups, arranged like the pins in bowling and filled with an inch of beer in the bottom. They repeat this nightly for 4 to 8 years till they’ve spent $100k and “earned” an almost useless piece of paper with the name of the “school” at which they played the above game most often.
Any other use of said “ping-pong balls” is strictly forbidden here in America.
—
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
An exacto knife worked. Pingpong balls have the same flaw as most other diffusors: more light is directed upwards than sideways (with flashlight facing up). Pic is a pp ball on a E2L triple.
Not an optimum solution then. But thanks for the exacto knife tip.
There’s other ways to make holes in thin plastic that don’t involve drills…
Get a Cu pipe slightly smaller than the head diameter of the light, heat it up, let it melt a hole.
Clearly won’t work though, in America ping-pong balls are only used for one thing: adolescents throw them at plastic cups, arranged like the pins in bowling and filled with an inch of beer in the bottom. They repeat this nightly for 4 to 8 years till they’ve spent $100k and “earned” an almost useless piece of paper with the name of the “school” at which they played the above game most often.
Any other use of said “ping-pong balls” is strictly forbidden here in America.
That reminds me of the quote:“college is just a bar with a high cover charge”.
Ping pong ball.. I was wondering how, I thought of trying a belt sander…it’d cut a plane through the ball..just stop when the diameter is right….
I’d try but I dont have a ping pong ball
An exacto knife worked. Pingpong balls have the same flaw as most other diffusors: more light is directed upwards than sideways (with flashlight facing up).
Its not the Ping pong balls fault. The flaw is in the flashlight.
I am not sure, but that seems to be about glue on the head only(?) We are talking about glue on the tailcap.
Jason is correct. It has been talked about previously in this thread that the light would not work correctly without the clip.
Do I remember exactly where that was discussed? Nope.
If I can find it without to much trouble I’ll post a link.
But I have read every post & it has been discussed.
That is why there has been the “back and forth” about gluing the tailcap.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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Where is the buyer list ? Just want to make sure I’m on it. Thanks
In my testing, it works fine without the clip. The clip isn’t even held tight, which is why there’s an extra O-ring there to keep the clip from spinning freely. What Bluzie saw was probably caused by the driver fit issue, not the clip.
I don’t really recommend removing the clip, but it shouldn’t cause any functional issues. It’ll just roll easily, and it leaves a gap which people might want to fill with a thicker O-ring or something.
Anyway, I thought these were meant to be production samples, but it seems they’re not. However, the optic and LED types should be easy to fix by simply waiting for the parts to arrive. The only actual issue I’m concerned about now is making sure the driver can fit into the spot it’s meant to go in, instead of resting on top.
It is meant to fit like this. This is good:
But what I found on mine was this. This is bad:
It can be fixed by removing a little bit more material from one specific spot inside the pill. Even if they’ve already manufactured and anodized the parts, it’s a thing which could still be corrected without throwing the parts away, since that part isn’t supposed to be anodized anyway. And it was done correctly on earlier prototypes, so I think they’ll be able to get it right.
Okay, thanks for confirming that it works. I was just really confused by the argumentation why this should not work (the clip acting as a spacer). Still hoping that glue for the tail cap is opt-out at least if it will ever make it into production lights.
Wow, okay, that’s worse than I initially thought it would be. Kind thought it would just not be able to touch the shelf completely, but that is really bad. I really would have thought they would notice that while assembling the prototypes. oO Thanks for the drawing!
Interested.
Well that is even better. I was remembering that the clip was essential for the proper spacing.
So the reason Lumintop wants to glue the tail is just to keep the switch parts from falling out since there is no retaining ring?
I wonder if they could put a dab of glue on the switch pcb instead of the cap threads? Maybe it would effect the contact between the pcb and the cap? IDK.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
that clip…would that fit on an S2??? I could use a few
I think that clip could be used on a LOT of lights! Been wondering if they’d sell them separately since the first pics were posted, thinking D4, HDS, and a few other larger lights.
It’s a beauty.
I’ll take 1 please. LH351D
Clips are money makers I have no idea why people don't make them widely available .
καὶ τὸ φῶς ἐν τῇ σκοτίᾳ φαίνει καὶ ἡ σκοτία αὐτὸ οὐ κατέλαβεν
Dc-fix diffuser film >… http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208
One of these (or all) probably fits.
https://www.banggood.com/TOWILD-Lantern-DIY-Flashlight-Disffuser-for-Reading-Table-Lamp-Camping-Lantern-p-1306663.html?cur_warehouse=CN
https://www.banggood.com/Nitecore-NTW25-LED-Flashlight-Diffuser-For-Diameter-25_4MM-p-937541.html?cur_warehouse=CN
https://www.banggood.com/Nitecore-NDF25-LED-Flashlight-Diffuser-25_4mm-For-EA1EA2EC1-p-937555.html?cur_warehouse=CN
The first is flexible (25-30mm), the other 2 are specified as 25.4mm.
The FW3A head is measured at 25.5mm but i am betting this is at the absolute thickest part where the knurling is and that the front of the head is slightly smaller.. (25.4mm???
)
The Nitecore (3rd one) looks very close, just not as opaque.
I agree. If at all possible, you should wait until someone has tested the production version and not rush to buy it the second it comes available. This should go with any light, but I know it will be hard especially with the FW3A
Glue on the switch pcb would be better than glue on the threads of the tailcap, if it is possible and will still work.
I have a NDF25, actually. It’s … not good. It doesn’t fit well, and it’s virtually transparent. It mostly just sends light out the front, after filtering the light a bit like a prism to make the beam an ugly yellow.
The FW3A diameter is 25.5mm, not 25.4mm, and this is actually enough of a difference to make some 25.4mm cones not fit well.
I’ve tried every diffuser I can find at banggood and fasttech, and a few from independent stores too. I haven’t found one I like, and the closest one so far is the Fenix AOD-S. It’s just slightly too tight, not opaque enough, and an odd shape… but it works at least okay-ish.
Sign me for 1 flashlight, please, if it’s not late
Why not drill a hole in a ping-pong ball?
It works very well as a diffuser.
FIAT LUX!
Maybe that’s something they do over in Romania but here in America we like to throw money away at silly pointless “solutions” that don’t work right anyway…
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
I am interested to buy one. Put me on the list please!
I'm curious, how do you drill a 25 mm hole into a ping-pong ball without destroying it? Thanks.
Maybe a small hole saw.
An exacto knife worked. Pingpong balls have the same flaw as most other diffusors: more light is directed upwards than sideways (with flashlight facing up).
Pic is a pp ball on a E2L triple.
link to djozz tests
There’s other ways to make holes in thin plastic that don’t involve drills…
Get a Cu pipe slightly smaller than the head diameter of the light, heat it up, let it melt a hole.
Clearly won’t work though, in America ping-pong balls are only used for one thing: adolescents throw them at plastic cups, arranged like the pins in bowling and filled with an inch of beer in the bottom. They repeat this nightly for 4 to 8 years till they’ve spent $100k and “earned” an almost useless piece of paper with the name of the “school” at which they played the above game most often.
Any other use of said “ping-pong balls” is strictly forbidden here in America.
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
Not an optimum solution then. But thanks for the exacto knife tip.
Wouldn’t celluloid ping pong balls burst into flames when fitted on a hot rod flashlight?
That reminds me of the quote:“college is just a bar with a high cover charge”.
Here’s a CRX solution for a diffuser (of that specific light,but that can serve as inspiration)
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1416482#comment-1416482
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Ping pong ball.. I was wondering how, I thought of trying a belt sander…it’d cut a plane through the ball..just stop when the diameter is right….
I’d try but I dont have a ping pong ball
Drop one of these on instead of the diffuser. Would be kind of interesting to see.
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32853382601.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesit...
Its not the Ping pong balls fault. The flaw is in the flashlight.
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