…. I suppose it is no more ridiculous than flashlights made of meteorites and hiking boots.
Actually I was serious, but only, as I mentioned above, as a custom clip that would work on the bill of a cap…. wouldnt this work(if the other clip could be removed)? I realize it wouldnt work for a pocket clip but as I said above, I dont like/use pocket clips and would probably remove the current clip if it wasnt glued.
Good point…. . .
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
I would personally prefer to be able to use the clip on a cap, or remove it, so I hope it is not glued. If it is glued, I will use it with the clip as is, and be fine with it.
So mostly iron with a bit of nickel. If I remember correctly, these are likely to represent the core of large planetary bodies – the space material which has undergone differentiation (light stuff floats to top, heavy sinks to bottom leading to compositional stratification). Not too disimilar to earth – iron-nickle core and ‘scummy’ crust floats ontop.
Wiki link to the meteorite this material came from:
Sure got quiet ~~~~ I thought I might get either a “that’s a stupid idea because …..” or “thats a neat idea” or some response in between …….. I don’t know what to think…… maybe I AM missing something.
—
Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience
Here’s some on-topic noise. I just read the review of the recent prototype, which notes that the battery tube is not quite long enough to accommodate button-top cells.
Isn’t this a glaring oversight for a product that has been in development for so long, with several prototype stages already past? How difficult can it be to add 50 thousandths of an inch, so that another entire family of common cells can also be used?
I will be pretty disappointed to find this thing in production and still unable to accommodate the collection of high-drain cells I have accumulated for my D4, D1S, and Q8. I don’t want to have to maintain another special set of batteries for this one application.
Here’s some on-topic noise. I just read the review of the recent prototype, which notes that the battery tube is not quite long enough to accommodate button-top cells. … How difficult can it be to add 50 thousandths of an inch…?
Proto2 worked fine with button-top unprotected cells. However, proto4 only fits flat-top unprotected cells. I think this is caused by the known issue with the driver being in the wrong spot, and it should be fixed by correcting the driver fit.
It’s supposed to fit like this… which is how both proto1 and proto2 were made:
… but proto4’s driver cavity wasn’t made quite big enough, so it ended up more like this:
I hope it’s clear from the diagram why this could cause issues with battery length. Restoring that part to how it was in earlier prototypes should fix it.
Here’s some on-topic noise. I just read the review of the recent prototype, which notes that the battery tube is not quite long enough to accommodate button-top cells.
Isn’t this a glaring oversight for a product that has been in development for so long, with several prototype stages already past? How difficult can it be to add 50 thousandths of an inch, so that another entire family of common cells can also be used?
I will be pretty disappointed to find this thing in production and still unable to accommodate the collection of high-drain cells I have accumulated for my D4, D1S, and Q8. I don’t want to have to maintain another special set of batteries for this one application.
Welcome to the world of lithium batteries where there are no standards when it comes to the physical size.
Unprotected flat top cells are recommended because button top may or may not fit. This was known information for many many months. In post #1 it says the maximum battery length is 66mm. If you have several button top cells then there is a chance some will fit and some won’t.
Unprotected flat tops, on the other hand, will all fit which is why they are recommended.
At first I thought you were talking about Bluzies review where a flat top battery did not fit, but that review was 3 weeks ago and was talked about here already.
What is this new review you speak of?
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
I don’t normally even buy button top cells. It is much easier to make a cell longer than it is to make it shorter. It would be nice if it fit both for the sake of those who don’t want to go monkeying around with their flat tops or, invested heavily in button tops.
The battery tube length is locked in. It’s a very narrow range of lengths due to the double tube design and both tubes have to have good contact for good functionality.
It’s quite possible Neal will offer the light with the option of a good flat top cell. I have zero concerns about the battery length.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Here’s some on-topic noise. I just read the review of the recent prototype, which notes that the battery tube is not quite long enough to accommodate button-top cells.
Which “review” are you referring to?? Please provide a link. That information is not correct. The length of the battery tube was not the issue.
_______
funkychateau wrote:
Isn’t this a glaring oversight for a product that has been in development for so long, with several prototype stages already past? How difficult can it be to add 50 thousandths of an inch, so that another entire family of common cells can also be used?
Nope, not a “glaring oversight” at all. See above & see TK’s detailed explanation quoted below outlining the suspected real problem.
Proto2 worked fine with button-top unprotected cells. However, proto4 only fits flat-top unprotected cells. I think this is caused by the known issue with the driver being in the wrong spot, and it should be fixed by correcting the driver fit.
It’s supposed to fit like this… which is how both proto1 and proto2 were made:
… but proto4’s driver cavity wasn’t made quite big enough, so it ended up more like this:
I hope it’s clear from the diagram why this could cause issues with battery length. Restoring that part to how it was in earlier prototypes should fix it.
_______
funkychateau wrote:
I will be pretty disappointed to find this thing in production and still unable to accommodate the collection of high-drain cells I have accumulated for my D4, D1S, and Q8. I don’t want to have to maintain another special set of batteries for this one application.
Hopefully you will not have to deal with disappointment. Hopefully your particular accumulation collection of high drain cells will work just fine.
But, even in a worse case scenario (which seems extremely unlikely); the FW3A just holds one cell. So, in the very, very, very unlikely event of “worse case scenario”; hopefully you will be able to deal with the disappointment, get one or two cell that fit, & be at least moderately happy with the cool new FW3A.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Thanks for the illustration of where the real problem lies. I had not seen that diagram, and probably never would, due to the time required to read through 7400 posts. Just for the record, I’m not lazy – I did read every post in the D4 review before buying, and also every post (to date) in the D4S thread, though I haven’t bought that one yet.
The issue seems to be simply a matter of paying more attention to the size tolerance of the various parts, which hopefully the manufacturer will address before beginning production. But yes, it would still bother the heck out of me to see so much good work go into this project and then have the versatility crippled by poor manufacturing.
Sure got quiet ~~~~ I thought I might get either a “that’s a stupid idea because …..” or “thats a neat idea” or some response in between …….. I don’t know what to think…… maybe I AM missing something.
Are you still not sure if I am serious or kidding? Since you didnt respond to my post explaining the cap clip, I was not sure if you just didnt understand what I was trying to do or maybe there was something wrong with the design that would keep it from working…….. maybe it is a good design but without explanation your reply suggests otherwise.
—
Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience
It looks like it would work on a baseball cap, if it’s not too heavy, but wouldn’t work very well in most other places. If I had one I would probably take the clip off, or maybe break off the extra fold.
TK, since no one from Maukka’s review has asked here yet, can you tell us why the two battery tubes in the FW3A can not be equally lengthened 0.5mm to 1mm so as to make it fit both flat top and button top batteries?
(Right now it only fits some button top, but not all. Max battery length is 66mm)
I figure there must be a reason and it was probably determined over a year ago, but people where asking and I don’t know the answer.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
TK, since no one from Maukka’s review has asked here yet, can you tell us why the two battery tubes in the FW3A can not be equally lengthened 0.5mm to 1mm so as to make it fit both flat top and button top batteries?
It’s mostly just too late, and would risk making shorter batteries lose contact when bumped.
Also, I think Lumintop may have only a compiled version of the 3D model, without any way to modify it. They might need the original from Fritz instead of an exported / compiled version. I’m not sure about the details though.
I'm surprised this has even come up. High-drain cells are flat-top by default. Button-tops are weird and abnormal for high-drain, unprotected cells. (I actually had to be very careful buying batteries for my L6 for this reason!)
Aren't most super-compact lights advertised similarly, some kind of "unprotected/flat-top only, others may not fit"? My Zebralight SC62, Lumzoo GH10, and Emisar D4 all have battery fitment concerns. Two of those aren't even high-drain! I'm sure we will get reviews very quickly in which members measure very precisely and test with a variety of cells, between protected and not, button-top and not.
I increased the available inner length of four Utorch UT01s by simply adding a snug-fitted circle of copper wire inside the tailcap, such that it makes full contact with the end of the tube. Takes five minutes, and works like a charm. It’s a very easy way to add a couple of mm’s.
I suppose this light might be somehow structurally different to prevent that from working, but it’s one potential fix if length is a problem.
No, no, it makes no difference if it’s a high drain or low drain or high capacity or whatever. All the 18650s from the “Big 5” Japanese companies (Sanyo, Panasonic, Sony, Samsung and LG) only come as flat top. It is the distributors that will add the button top which is why there are so many different sizes and styles of button top.
Now if your talking about any other battery company, then the sky is the limit and anything is possible. You can get 18650 batteries made in smaller factories as well as all different sizes, top configurations and protection circuitry. Some smalker companies will even take a Big 5 battery and rewrap it with and without a button top and/or protection circuitry.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
I increased the available inner length of four Utorch UT01s by simply adding a snug-fitted circle of copper wire inside the tailcap, such that it makes full contact with the end of the tube. Takes five minutes, and works like a charm. It’s a very easy way to add a couple of mm’s.
I suppose this light might be somehow structurally different to prevent that from working, but it’s one potential fix if length is a problem.
There’s no way to do that on the FW3A that I can see. There’s no need for it either. Just use a flat top. I bet Neal will offer it with a battery installed like he did with other lights. At least I hope so.
A good flat top like a Samsung 30Q or 35E should only cost $5. I don’t see the need for anyone to get worked up over this battery.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
I increased the available inner length of four Utorch UT01s by simply adding a snug-fitted circle of copper wire inside the tailcap, such that it makes full contact with the end of the tube. Takes five minutes, and works like a charm. It’s a very easy way to add a couple of mm’s.
I suppose this light might be somehow structurally different to prevent that from working, but it’s one potential fix if length is a problem.
There’s no way to do that on the FW3A that I can see. There’s no need for it either. Just use a flat top. I bet Neal will offer it with a battery installed like he did with other lights. At least I hope so.
A good flat top like a Samsung 30Q or 35E should only cost $5. I don’t see the need for anyone to get worked up over this battery.
I don’t have an FW3A. However, I suspect it would be possible to mod the light for extra length providing there are sufficient threads to allow it to be unscrewed enough and still hold together.
However, it would take some experimentation and would certainly take a lot more than 5 minutes.
A single c-ring created from wire or a narrow copper ring would not be sufficient. You would need 2 rings: 1 for the inner tube and one for the outer. And they would need to be separated by some kind of insulating material. Kapton tape or maybe Arctic Alumina epoxy.
These rings would need to be roughly the same thickness as the stock body and inner tubes with a similar gap between. They would also need to be the same height. Get it wrong and the switch won’t work right.
Easiest way to do it is probably to:
Cut a very thin uniform length from a copper sheet. Try to make it as narrow as possible. Maybe 1-2 mm thick.
Cut the strip into 2 separate pieces.
Bend each strip into a C-ring. One for the inner tube, one for the outer. Test for fit.
Run a couple strips of kapton tape along the transition between the two tubes. Maybe super-glue it in place.
Super-glue the other other tube to the top of the kapton tape.
Use a knife and trim off any kapton tape sticking out the top or bottom of your c-ring sandwich.
File the top and bottom of the rings so they are completely uniform.
If necessary to maintain good battery contact, replace one of the stock springs with a longer low-resistance spring.
FW3XX = ??? (waiting for instruction from Rat_Racer)
__________ Please Note:
1.If your model or suggestion was omitted, my apologies; I simply overlooked it.
2. THELISTwill be update until the FW3A is announced for sale. After that there will be no further updates. . It will be time at that point to get real serious about reading the “I ordered mine.” or “I ordered 3.” , etc., etc. posts.
………
Please …… Do Not “Quote” this looooong post. . Thank you.
….. Added…. 22 February 2019
FW3AC = Apple Coral (Melithea)
FW3DG = Dragon Glass
FW3F = Fire (an even cheaper copy of the FW3XXX. Use at own risk.)
FW3Iv = Ivory
FW3Ob = Obsidian
FW3PP = Personal Preference (have it your way... everything is optional)
FW3PW = Petrified Wood
FW3RS = Red Stag
FW3SaS = Sambar Stag
FW3W 1/2 = Walrus (1 = Baculum / 2 = Ivory)
FW3WT = Warthog Tusk
FW3Zn = Zinc
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
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I would personally prefer to be able to use the clip on a cap, or remove it, so I hope it is not glued. If it is glued, I will use it with the clip as is, and be fine with it.
I assume you don’t wear caps with a duck bill?
There are different categories of meteorite depending on their composition.
The one above is an iron meteorite, composition as follows:
91,8% Fe; 7,7% Ni; 0,5% Co; 0,04% P; 2,4 ppm Ir; 1,97 ppm Ga; 0,111 ppm Ge
So mostly iron with a bit of nickel. If I remember correctly, these are likely to represent the core of large planetary bodies – the space material which has undergone differentiation (light stuff floats to top, heavy sinks to bottom leading to compositional stratification). Not too disimilar to earth – iron-nickle core and ‘scummy’ crust floats ontop.
Wiki link to the meteorite this material came from:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gibeon_
Sure got quiet ~~~~ I thought I might get either a “that’s a stupid idea because …..” or “thats a neat idea” or some response in between …….. I don’t know what to think…… maybe I AM missing something.
Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience
A little John Prine
People were complaining about the off-topic noise, and there hasn’t been much on-topic news to share… so it got quiet.
Oh well, just to rekindle some interest. how about a photo of the ‘softer’ side of the fw3a:
!
!
Here’s some on-topic noise. I just read the review of the recent prototype, which notes that the battery tube is not quite long enough to accommodate button-top cells.
Isn’t this a glaring oversight for a product that has been in development for so long, with several prototype stages already past? How difficult can it be to add 50 thousandths of an inch, so that another entire family of common cells can also be used?
I will be pretty disappointed to find this thing in production and still unable to accommodate the collection of high-drain cells I have accumulated for my D4, D1S, and Q8. I don’t want to have to maintain another special set of batteries for this one application.
Hmmm,I could be wrong, but I think this has been designed for flat tops since the beginning.
Proto2 worked fine with button-top unprotected cells. However, proto4 only fits flat-top unprotected cells. I think this is caused by the known issue with the driver being in the wrong spot, and it should be fixed by correcting the driver fit.
It’s supposed to fit like this… which is how both proto1 and proto2 were made:
… but proto4’s driver cavity wasn’t made quite big enough, so it ended up more like this:
I hope it’s clear from the diagram why this could cause issues with battery length. Restoring that part to how it was in earlier prototypes should fix it.
So it was always supppsed to support button tops. I didn’t know that.
Welcome to the world of lithium batteries where there are no standards when it comes to the physical size.
Unprotected flat top cells are recommended because button top may or may not fit. This was known information for many many months. In post #1 it says the maximum battery length is 66mm. If you have several button top cells then there is a chance some will fit and some won’t.
Unprotected flat tops, on the other hand, will all fit which is why they are recommended.
At first I thought you were talking about Bluzies review where a flat top battery did not fit, but that review was 3 weeks ago and was talked about here already.
What is this new review you speak of?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I don’t normally even buy button top cells. It is much easier to make a cell longer than it is to make it shorter. It would be nice if it fit both for the sake of those who don’t want to go monkeying around with their flat tops or, invested heavily in button tops.
"Everywhere I go, there I am"
The battery tube length is locked in. It’s a very narrow range of lengths due to the double tube design and both tubes have to have good contact for good functionality.
It’s quite possible Neal will offer the light with the option of a good flat top cell. I have zero concerns about the battery length.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
_______ Nope, not a “glaring oversight” at all. See above & see TK’s detailed explanation quoted below outlining the suspected real problem.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1463968#comment-1463968
_______
Hopefully you will not have to deal with disappointment. Hopefully your particular accumulation collection of high drain cells will work just fine.But, even in a worse case scenario (which seems extremely unlikely); the FW3A just holds one cell. So, in the very, very, very unlikely event of “worse case scenario”; hopefully you will be able to deal with the disappointment, get one or two cell that fit, & be at least moderately happy with the cool new FW3A.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
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Thanks for the illustration of where the real problem lies. I had not seen that diagram, and probably never would, due to the time required to read through 7400 posts. Just for the record, I’m not lazy – I did read every post in the D4 review before buying, and also every post (to date) in the D4S thread, though I haven’t bought that one yet.
The issue seems to be simply a matter of paying more attention to the size tolerance of the various parts, which hopefully the manufacturer will address before beginning production. But yes, it would still bother the heck out of me to see so much good work go into this project and then have the versatility crippled by poor manufacturing.
I would like to buy one.
arent all high drain batteries flat tops anyways stock `? i dont even own a flat top battery for my highdrain lights that takes just 1 battery.
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
Are you still not sure if I am serious or kidding? Since you didnt respond to my post explaining the cap clip, I was not sure if you just didnt understand what I was trying to do or maybe there was something wrong with the design that would keep it from working…….. maybe it is a good design but without explanation your reply suggests otherwise.
Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience
A little John Prine
All 18650’s from the big Japanese makers (Sanyo/Panasonic, Sony, Samsung and LG) are all flat top. Aftermarket companies add button tops to them.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
No, you clarified.
It looks like it would work on a baseball cap, if it’s not too heavy, but wouldn’t work very well in most other places. If I had one I would probably take the clip off, or maybe break off the extra fold.
C’mon, lights have feelings too, you know?
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
TK, since no one from Maukka’s review has asked here yet, can you tell us why the two battery tubes in the FW3A can not be equally lengthened 0.5mm to 1mm so as to make it fit both flat top and button top batteries?
(Right now it only fits some button top, but not all. Max battery length is 66mm)
I figure there must be a reason and it was probably determined over a year ago, but people where asking and I don’t know the answer.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
It’s mostly just too late, and would risk making shorter batteries lose contact when bumped.
Also, I think Lumintop may have only a compiled version of the 3D model, without any way to modify it. They might need the original from Fritz instead of an exported / compiled version. I’m not sure about the details though.
I'm surprised this has even come up. High-drain cells are flat-top by default. Button-tops are weird and abnormal for high-drain, unprotected cells. (I actually had to be very careful buying batteries for my L6 for this reason!)
Aren't most super-compact lights advertised similarly, some kind of "unprotected/flat-top only, others may not fit"? My Zebralight SC62, Lumzoo GH10, and Emisar D4 all have battery fitment concerns. Two of those aren't even high-drain! I'm sure we will get reviews very quickly in which members measure very precisely and test with a variety of cells, between protected and not, button-top and not.
I increased the available inner length of four Utorch UT01s by simply adding a snug-fitted circle of copper wire inside the tailcap, such that it makes full contact with the end of the tube. Takes five minutes, and works like a charm. It’s a very easy way to add a couple of mm’s.
I suppose this light might be somehow structurally different to prevent that from working, but it’s one potential fix if length is a problem.
No, no, it makes no difference if it’s a high drain or low drain or high capacity or whatever. All the 18650s from the “Big 5” Japanese companies (Sanyo, Panasonic, Sony, Samsung and LG) only come as flat top. It is the distributors that will add the button top which is why there are so many different sizes and styles of button top.
Now if your talking about any other battery company, then the sky is the limit and anything is possible. You can get 18650 batteries made in smaller factories as well as all different sizes, top configurations and protection circuitry. Some smalker companies will even take a Big 5 battery and rewrap it with and without a button top and/or protection circuitry.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
There’s no way to do that on the FW3A that I can see. There’s no need for it either. Just use a flat top. I bet Neal will offer it with a battery installed like he did with other lights. At least I hope so.
A good flat top like a Samsung 30Q or 35E should only cost $5. I don’t see the need for anyone to get worked up over this battery.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
However, it would take some experimentation and would certainly take a lot more than 5 minutes.
A single c-ring created from wire or a narrow copper ring would not be sufficient. You would need 2 rings: 1 for the inner tube and one for the outer. And they would need to be separated by some kind of insulating material. Kapton tape or maybe Arctic Alumina epoxy.
These rings would need to be roughly the same thickness as the stock body and inner tubes with a similar gap between. They would also need to be the same height. Get it wrong and the switch won’t work right.
Easiest way to do it is probably to:
Lest we forget what is really important, at this particular time; as we ‘patiently’ wait for the FW3A to be born,,,,,
I give you…… THE LIST !!!!!
UPDATE
Model List for the FW3_ Series flashlight.
*Wish List that is*..
The LIST
FW3AC = Apple Coral (Melithea)
FW3Ba = Bakelite
FW3Be = Beryllium
FW3BC = Beryllium copper
FW3BF = Buckyfiber
FW3Bi = Bismuth
FW3BR = Brass
FW3BZ = Bronze
FW3C = Copper
FW3Ca = Catalin
FW3CA = Carbide
FW3CC = Cool Colors (choice of:
green, red, blue, purple, orange, black, & gray)FW3CE = Ceramic
FW3CF = Carbon Fiber
FW3CG = Clear Glass
FW3CO = Cobalt
FW3Cr = Crystal
FW3CR = Chromium
FW3D = Damascus
FW3Di = Diamond
FW3F = Fire (an even cheaper copy of the FW3XXX. Use at own risk.)
FW3G = Gold
FW3I = Cast Iron
FW3Iv = Ivory
FW3L = Lead
FW3Le = Lexan
FW3M = Mokume
FW3Met = Meteorite
FW3Mg = Magnesium
FW3Mo = Moissanite
FW3N = Naked
FW3O = Osmium
FW3Ob = Obsidian
FW3P = Platinum
FW3P
la= PlaskonFW3PP = Personal Preference (have it your way… everything is optional)
FW3PSk = PlaySkool
(kids version help's identify future flasholics & modders.)FW3PW = Petrified Wood
FW3R = Rubber (for those who treat lights roughly)
FW3RS = Red Stag
FW3S = Stainless
FW3SaS = Sambar Stag
FW3SS = Sterling Silver
FW3St = Stellite
FW3T = Titanium
FW3TD = Tracking Device (for those who tend to lose lights)
FW3Tim = Timascus (Titanium Damascus)
FW3Tu = Tungsten
FW3U
D= Uranium – DepletedFW3V = Vibram (for those individuals prone to drop their lights)
FW3W
1/2= Walrus (1 = Baculum / 2 = Ivory)FW3WT = Warthog Tusk
FW3W = Wood
FW3XXX =
Cheap fake/knockoff copy of FW3A. Key word, 'cheap'. Use as loaner light.FW3Zn = Zinc
_____
Special Order / Ready for purchase
_In your dreams_._____
Use within attention to CAUTION listed
___________
Caution & Protective Gear Required
Could be & probably Will Be HAZARDOUS to Health & Life!!
.
.!..USE AT YOUR OWN RISK & PERIL..
.!.
R= Uranium – Raw (No battery needed. USE WITH CAUTION!!)_______
…………….FOR COMPLETELY HOMEMADE LIGHTS ONLY…………….
TRY TO USE ONLY IF YOU HAVE A DEATH WISH, BECAUSE YOU WILL DIE
YES…. DIE!! GRAVE YARD DEAD. YOU WILL MOST LIKELY BE IN TINY BITS.
___________
SciFi Models
___________
PENDING
__________
Please Note:
………
Please …… Do Not “Quote” this looooong post. . Thank you.
…..
Added…. 22 February 2019
FW3AC = Apple Coral (Melithea)FW3DG = Dragon GlassFW3F = Fire (an even cheaper copy of the FW3XXX. Use at own risk.)FW3Iv = IvoryFW3Ob = ObsidianFW3PP = Personal Preference (have it your way... everything is optional)FW3PW = Petrified WoodFW3RS = Red StagFW3SaS = Sambar StagFW3W 1/2 = Walrus (1 = Baculum / 2 = Ivory)FW3WT = Warthog TuskFW3Zn = ZincYou never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
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