They won’t tell you, but copper is actually a dense form of peanutbutter

djozz wrote:

They won’t tell you, but copper is actually a dense form of peanutbutter

Yep, cold pressed UV (Über Virgin).

djozz wrote:

They won’t tell you, but copper is actually a dense form of peanutbutter

Add in that slim little percentage of Tellurium to the Copper and once it again it machines like brass. Well worth it if you ask me…

On another note, but some machining still involved… I managed to trade my son a newer light for his Jacob A60 then coaxed 227.5Kcd from the old pencil beam thrower.

Good job on the A60 Dale. I still take its stock 55 kcd (with XR-E led) as my reference point for throwers that I make, to feel good about how much flashlights have improved
What led does it have now?

I machined the emitter shelf to accept a 20mm Noctigon with a White Flat. Using an FET+1 A6 style (that I built) and limiting power through cell choice, currently running a Panasonic PF that gives 6.01A at 4.19V freshly charged. Yeah yeah, I know, I have an LED4Power LD-A4 on the way that I will set to a little lower current to optimize the emitter so improper cell choice won’t kill it should I forget (and I will!).

When the LD-A4 arrives I plan to make a copper “retaining ring” that will hold the smaller 17mm driver, just replace the very thick aluminum retaining ring with one made from copper that has a shelf for the driver then solder the driver in after installing. (or if I take a notion I’ll make a retaining ring to fit within the retaining ring to hold the driver. Depends on the variables…

Convoy S2+ Triple XP-E Photo Red 670nm, Carclo 10508 - 8x7135 Convoy driver (Biscotti) - 18350 - Rv Clicky Sw.

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Nitecore TIP CRI Nichia 219B - SD - ES Sw - Potted - 290lm.

Installed a green locator LED, boosted output slightly, fully potted internals and some GITD on the switches.

Turbo - 220lm to 290lm
High -  92lm to 160lm
Med -  23lm to 40 lm
Low - 1lm - 1lm

CRX, is that a noctigon on the triple? Or did you put something red thing below the lens! Nice effect

It is a Noctigon MCPCB.

I usually colour the bottom of the three support posts with black but did red this time as I thought it went better.

I modified the CRX Rotary with a 3K carbon fibre jacket and swapped the XP-L HD 3D emitter for an XP-L HI 3A 5000K as I found the XP-L HD 3D tint to be a little too green on the lower modes so now it's a much nicer creamy white to my eyes.

Copper, Titanium & Carbon Fibre construction
Cree XP-L HI v2 3A 5000K emitter
GITD O-ring & LED surround
20mm Copper DTP MCPCB
19mm x 8mm solid copper heatsink
20mm x 12mm SMO Reflector
22mm x 2mm dual coated ARC glass
Lighted Rotary six mode tail switch & Momentary button
Dual colour Tritium indicators
Lockout-able
Diffuser/ protective carry case
Magnetic cell contacts
18350 cell compatible
Removable USB charging unit

Length – 94mm
Width – 27mm
Weight – 192g (with 18350 cell)

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New Modes, Operation & Light output:

Pressing the momentary button or turning the rotary tail switch clockwise gives these approximate outputs:

Mo Sw - 1330 lm
Mode - 1 - 1200 lm
Mode - 2 - 392 lm
Mode - 3 - 174 lm
Mode - 4 - 45 lm
Mode - 5 - 3 lm
Mode - 6 - FF

Max cd - 15000
Max Throw - 245m

Modding the UF-C1 (P60) and the Revtronic PT20, to both I added the light cap. The PT20 has already been modified by replacing the reflector with a 120° TIR; I use it only in the house and so is very handy

Convoy S9 CF.

And some carbon fibre on the CRX CSLNM1.TG Copper & Titanium Zoomie :)

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Carbon fibre spare cell carriers?

Carbon fiber spare cell carriers?

Yes please, I’ll take 3!

My friend sent me a Lumintop Tool AA/14500 Ver. 2.0 that arrived yesterday. It had an XP-L HD in it but that didn’t last long, I pulled the pill out, filed off the raised outer edges and filed down a 16mm Noctigon to fit squarely on top of the aluminum pill, then placed a White Flat on the Noctigon. Left the driver alone so it can run AA or 14500 either one. The White Flat makes 538 lumens on a Red Efest 14500 not fully charged and the hot spot is more concentrated with less spill. Works for me!

DB Custom wrote:

Carbon fiber spare cell carriers?

Yes please, I’ll take 3!

Convoy S11 with XHP50.2 80 CRI 4000K and 6V 4.8A boost driver. Modes: 0.1A, 0.4A, 2.3A, 5A. On max mode it takes almost 10A from the battery, however that is too much for the switch and the driver warns about low voltage.

Album with all pictures

What cell are you running in it?

DB Custom wrote:

What cell are you running in it?

Black Shockli 26650 IMR 30A 5500mAh

Interesting. That cell should be capable without running into issue. The only cell I know for sure that is better, same class, is the Golisi in gold. Changing class to a 21700 the 30T or 40T may still outperform the Golisi but it’s marginal even there. The Golisi is markedly better than the LiitoKala black…. still, perhaps a good cleaning of all contacts with De-Oxit Gold would help?

Spring bypasses will help. If it has an Omten switch, even a mini, you don’t have to worry about the switch, they can run up to around 30A before having any real issues.

DB Custom wrote:

Spring bypasses will help. If it has an Omten switch, even a mini, you don’t have to worry about the switch, they can run up to around 30A before having any real issues.

I installed a large blue spring and it helped:

This is a picture of stock forward switch included in S11 host package:

I like the S11 design, but how does the heat dissipation work out ?
It still uses a pill, which makes it easy to mod, but wouldn’t a shelf help on it?

Not the most desireable of switches but as long as it hasn’t melted or softened such that it won’t click then it’s still doing it’s job.

Mod doubt:
I have a brass ring that I will use as a spacer (17mm-23mm) for a 17mm L4P driver.
My doubt is how should I attach the driver to the ring? Solder? Epoxy? Any kind of wires?

The ring is supposed to be on the spring side (of course) and I will sand/file/bore it till the inner diameter matches the driver (to avoid contact with the wires or spring.
But I’m having these doubts about how to attach one thing to the other ! Any help is appreciated! Thanks in advance

Whatever you do, attach it so that the battery pushes the driver into the ring tighter (ie, sitting on a shelf), and not that it could push the driver out of the ring.

If you have a set of step-bits that does 17mm, use that to get a nice flat bottom in the ring, even if it’s almost foil-thin. Don’t drill all the way through and hope that solder will keep the driver in place. It may work for a while, but constant hammering on it might weaken the solder to the point where the driver gets pushed right through, probably taking some copper traces with it.

Yep, what he said, and always best to solder if you can.

Got done with an emitter swap on my S1R II Baton, used a filed down Convoy S2+ DTP board with a 90CRI Nichia 219B 5700k emitter.

I got far too involved with actually doing it that I didn’t take any photos apart from the filed down DTP board installed in the light itself, and it was a bit of work filing down the edges of the board to fit but once it was done it went in smoothly.

Most people have reduced the thickness of the board itself to compensate for the extremely thin stock board that comes in the S1R II, I chose to file down the white plastic cup the TIR lens sits in instead. It allowed the TIR to sit flush with the emitter board and the opening was just the right size for the whole emitter to sit within the lens. Fully assembled the bezel ring sits flush without any gaps. Nice! Of course I forgot to center the ring. A minor detail, but if it bothers me enough over time I’ll end up fixing it.

One thing of note is that it gets very hot now compared to stock. Running it on turbo the head gets near D4 levels of hot after some 30-40 seconds. Not hot enough to burn, but extremely uncomfortable to hold near the head. Given it’s a marginally noticeable bump between high and turbo and doesn’t get nearly as hot nearly as quickly when on high, I’ll limit turbo to quick blips here and there.

Here’s some comparison shots, photos taken at 5000K WB, color corrected for 0 green/magenta tint shift.

S2R II Stock SST-40 6500-7500k ||| S1R II 219B 5700k 90CRI ||| BLF Q8 LH351D 5000k 90CRI ||| Emisar D4 SST-20 4000k 95CRI

And color comparison:

S2R II

Nichia S1R II

D4 SST20 with a 10623 optic

Needless to say if it were easier to remove the bezel ring on the S2R II I’d do an emitter swap on it in a heartbeat.

Nice job! That’s probably actually a preferable method for Nichia LEDs since they tend to have a slightly lower optical reference. What tool did you use to pop off the bezel?

Used this video as a guide with a utility knife, regular knife, and then a flat head screwdriver, tapping the head of the screwdriver on the back of the knives to slowly wedge the blades in. It was a lot easier than I had expected.