Put a White Flat in a Cree Q5 version of the Jacob A60 for my buddy. Also fitted an LD4A set to 6A, used 22ga leads. Before I put the driver in I used a bench test LED to set the driver to 5.5A. After assembly I found that I could reset the driver to 5.75A for 5.45A at the tail, with the White Flat making 828 lumens. On the lux meter, at 5M distance, 800Kcd. Works for both of us! lol
I received my first Emisar yesterday, a D1S. Phenomenal light! But it probably had less than a minute on the stock electronics before it was modded
Custom 5A linear driver running 5x CN5710’s (in dual channel: 1+4) and a Attiny412. Has programming pads for easy flashing. Running TomE/TK’s RampingIOS. Also put in a 1mm² White Flat from Hank with his gasket.
Can you tell I’m a sucker for symmetry?
I did a few before & after numbers, along with my B158 and L2 for comparison.
Flashlight
Volts
Amps
Lumens
Lux
D1S, stock XP-L HI and FET+1 driver
4.075V
5.33A
1540lm
127,425lx
D1S, 5A driver and White Flat
4.079V
4.98A
958lm
272,880lx
B158, FET+1 and XP-L HI
4.066V
4.78A
461lm
185,925lx
L2, FET+1 and dedomed SST-40
4.188V
9.48A
1946lm
256,250lx
Observations / Notes:
The beam, while a bit cool from the White Flat, is tight and beautiful.
I didn’t play with the focus. It’s possible it could be better with some adjustments, but I’m pretty pleased.
I knew the optics of the B158 would have quite a bit of loss, but I wasn’t imagining anything that drastic. It could be my lumen tube reading low, but the other measurements seem about right
These CN5710’s don’t like very high frequency PWM. Spec is max 2kHz, which is what I have it running at. I tried them briefly at 13kHz and they really didn’t like that. If I put these in a light I planned on using on low very much, I’d use a digipot to dial in the amperage.
Lux measured at 5 meters on a cheap UNI-T meter from Banggood.
Lumens measured in a DIY lumen tube with a Adafruit #1980 / TSL2591 sensor
Amps measured at tailcap with short, heavy wire and a clamp meter
Output with the sw45k is about 135 lumens, down from 235 lumens with the stock XP-L2, which is significantly lower than Zebralight’s claimed 320 lumens. All their frosted glass headlamps seem to measure 25-30% lower than spec for whatever reason. The H53Fw is rated only 10 lumens lower than the H53w, which is clearly incorrect given the frosted lens drops the output almost 10%.
I replaced the lens with a stock frosted Zebralight lens. The 219B has a fair bit of egg yolk in the small reflector, but it’s completely eliminated by the frosted glass and looks awesome. I wouldn’t mind a bit more output, but this was more a proof of concept than anything. I think a dedomed 5000K LH351D would be perfect in this light. I am really fond of this little light and would like to try other AA Zebralights.
Another photo with the reflector and potting removed:
I did say earlier I was using fast PWM on these, but I totally forgot I was running on 1mHz clock. My “fast” PWM isn’t actually very fast at all :person_facepalming:
At about half the output with the 219b, looks like the LH351D dedomed would indeed be a good option for this light. Do you think you will swap one in to replace the 219b in your H53fw?
FWIW, here’s a trick I used for this mod that has helped with similar mods involving complicated wire paths. I wrapped a piece of shrink tubing around the LED lead wire ends before pulling the electronics module out to solder.
The tubing gives me enough slack to work on the driver and I can simply pull the lead wires back through afterwards without having to thread inside the tube.
Love it, pc_light and gChart what you guys did!! These are one of the best regular priced deal lights around, for these 2 styles of headlamps! I got one of each now, 2 headlamps for like $26 total shipped, and they are moddable, very lightweight so very practical, and of course e-switch so we can run our best firmware. All around a true moddable winner! I really have to control myself from ordering a case of these things, of course knowing that's a lot of mod'n... But actually, your mod of a MCU replacement is about as easy as it gets, as long as you have the capability to reflow an SMD.
Ohh, not to mention you retain the stock USB charging....
Replaced the XPL HI 5D I had in my modded Sipik 58 with LED Lenser style optic with an Oslon flat from International Outdoors.
The FET driver proved to be too much for the emitter to handle even when powered by just by an ICR 14500. Ended up swapping out the Oslon and replacing it with an SST20 4000K 95 CRI. Definitely better than the Oslon, but not sure if it’s any better than the XPL HI.
The higher binned SST-20's, like the 5000K or 6500K, should do better than a XPL HI V2 but don't think the 95 CRI's will. Haven't seen direct evidence of this, but the #'s Hank has on his Emisar web page listings show some of this, given the optics/power setup.