well that didnt last long….
Everything was working fine last might, came home form work today to find the button had popped off, put the button back on ( although it wont seat correctly) battery in, and nothing - dead.
well that didnt last long….
Everything was working fine last might, came home form work today to find the button had popped off, put the button back on ( although it wont seat correctly) battery in, and nothing - dead.
a few problems:
Ouch, I would speculate that something over-heated, which explains (1) why it's dead and (2) heat caused air pressure to increase, behind the button, causing it to pop off.
You've changed the battery?
An user at the German flashlight forum (TLF) had a similar problem: Emisar / Noctigon Laber- und Bestellthread | Taschenlampen Forum
The flashlight turned on by itself and burned a hole in the holster. The button popped of too. Maybe your d4v2 turned on by itself too?
the battery was only changed as it wouldnt work, when carrying it ive developed a habbit of switching it off ( twsit to tailcap) to prevent pocket activation .
ther report on the German forum is worrying, as i was hoping to be able to leave it powered up with the AUX LEDs on so it could be easily found in a tent, where it was located when found was a relativly safe place, however if it was in a tent/near combustible material the outcome could have been very different, looks like the same thing has happened to me
The question is whats the resolution to this problem??
while i was asking about the thermal regulation previously, nothing has been changed from the original as sent out settings ( didnt want to mess it up until i was 100% confident)
Google translate shows this
Ouch Pint!
That doesn’t look good. I agree that it looks like something overheated. Overheating can explain what is visible in the photos you provided:
Neither of these things should have happened, but fortunately both should be fixable if you have a soldering iron and maybe some super-glue. You can try contacting Hank and returning it for repair, or you can try fixing it yourself. If this happened to me, I’d try the following:
The positive wire is unsoldered. A defective solder?
Im OK with soldering some things, de soldering and re-soldering the aux board is a task for which i lack the correct tools, i could re-heat the positeve lead and dab it down, and press the switch in again, however the report over on the German forum shows the same thing happening, almost as if it switched on by itself and got warm
It could have been a poor solder job.
Except that Pint also reported the button boot came off, which suggests overheating.
I never heard of any Emisar problems when it’s using ramping firmware , maybe it’s just a coincidence that problems are popping up now they are running on anduril
I don’t think that’s the case.
I have stock D4s with ramping IOS and modded D4s with Anduril. All of them work perfectly. I don’t think the problem is the firmware.
That said, I don’t yet have the latest version of Anduril for the D4 installed, so not sure if there is a problem with it and the D4. If the light failed to ramp down at all and stayed on turbo, I suppose that might also explain what Pint experienced.
Well, I'm planning to do runtime graphs when mine arrives. Until this is all sorted out and understood, I'll make sure there's a baking pan under the light.
If I were the manufacturer, I would be pulling some samples from stock - to perform some runtime tests, both on and off. There aren't that many of these lights out there, it's a bit concerning.
The firmware is not to bad , it’s the thermal regulation of the firmware that I’ve got no confidence with.
Huh, I really should have got the joke, as this guy was born just a few minutes away from where I live.
Mine is on the way with SST-20s. I don’t really fiddle with the settings on my D1, D1S or D4, but what’s the first thing I should do to prevent Chernobyl?
Re-calibrate the the thermal setting? I don’t think I’ll play with Turbo too much and I’ll keep the light unlocked at all times unless I’m playing with it right in front of me.
This is kind of a bummer, but there are bound to be a few Ferrari 458 Italia engine fires along the way!
Chris
If I were the manufacturer, I would be pulling some samples from stock - to perform some runtime tests, both on and off. There aren’t that many of these lights out there, it’s a bit concerning.
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hoping Hank will stop by, a bit concerning indeed!
Anduril is generally more aggressive with stepdowns than RampingOS AFAIK. Unless the settings are really goofed (like some Fireflies lights and FW3As were from the factory, but very easy to fix) something like this shouldn’t happen. I mean, if an FW3A modded to quad emitters can manage the heat without desoldering itself a light with the mass of the D4 shouldn’t either.
I dont want to have to go through the hassle of mailing the whole thing back, waiting, and waiting then maybe getting it fixed/replaced
They usually wont ask you to send it back as long as you have it all documented.
I must say it’s a bit curious that one day you post about having trouble setting upper thermal limit and next day you managed to have a melt down. What exactly did you do at that point?
I don’t think that should matter.
My recollection is that it’s not possible to turn off the thermal protection in Anduril. You can set so it is less aggressive but it should still turn on and protect the electronics.