Thanks I bet I could snip the ones I got shorter if the pads line up right. I got extras. If not I guess the wires may help with the flexing.
On a related note, DigiKey has outdone themselves and they are now competing with Arrow packaging (RIP Free Shipping).
FW3A for scale.
Why such a big box you ask? To protect the 4 feet of heatshrink tube of course. Other items included a few LEDs, resistors, and those jumpers. :person_facepalming:
Yea Mouser has been doing that too for years… I think they are concerned you will call it ‘damaged’ if it arrives kinked.
The “fix” is to include a note on the order that says “Please fold the heat-shrink to reduce shipping costs.” That has been working for me.
Check these out. I actually had this exact idea for edge mounting the connector a month ago and even ordered parts to build one. Now a more intense Google search shows the exact idea already exists.
Oh, ok. What pitch did you order?
My link was to the 2.54mm pitch version just for a visual.
I updated my link to the 1.27mm pitch version in-case anyone else orders from it.
I missed it if it is in this thread, but how possible is it to attach the pogo pins with a soldering iron? I don’t have a “reflow station” so to speak, so I have been doing most of my soldering with an iron and have been reflowing my emitters with a torch. I am waiting on OSH Park right now, and have been thinking about how difficult it might be to get 6-8 pins soldered on to this tiny board.
Am I right to worry or is it easier than it looks?
I was planning to reflow one side on the stove top then maybe try to kapton tape it down and do the other side. If that doesn’t work i’ll probably try an iron on the 2nd side to get it aligned properly. not sure.
I may try to use my lead free solder on the first side then use leaded solder on the flip side to help keep side #1 in place.