FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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mattlward
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For me, it was a no brainer to flash it. The bins and tints of the 219b’s that I am using are not in production and are limited in numbers. I would hate to burn one up at this point.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

Klayking
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From the tests that have been done, SST-20 emitters seem to be putting out only slightly more than half of the lumens that the XP-L HI emitters can in this light. I’m assuming this is because they are also on a limited power version of the firmware. How much is it limited again, 70% FET? Theoretically, could I squeeze a bit more light out of it with a modified version of Andúril (still less than 100% FET) without frying the emitters?

KevinZA1988
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I bought the XP-LHI 7A version, 1st batch, and swapped in SST-20 3000K LED’s from BlueSwordM a shirt while after. They lasted lots of turbo runs then I went over to Nichia 219C’s. I’m waiting for a SST-20 version from the factory, then I can test the turbo current on both.

Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.

Most of them have been modded! =)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

ToyKeeper
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Klayking wrote:
From the tests that have been done, SST-20 emitters seem to be putting out only slightly more than half of the lumens that the XP-L HI emitters can … I’m assuming this is because they are also on a limited power version of the firmware.

I don’t know for sure what firmware the SST-20 version uses, but I don’t think it’s limiting the FET. At least, I never sent Lumintop any firmware with a limit. The difference may be more related to the SST-20 high-CRI emitters simply being less efficient.

freq wrote:
does/will that firmware origin with you? – and reside (someday) in your reposit?

Yes. The last firmware I sent to Lumintop was this build:
http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2019-08-05.fw3a.hex

freq wrote:
expensive flatulence creation thru the magic of control voltage devices

It really has earned its reputation though, as a very expensive way to not make music. People dump in enough money to buy a new car, and then end up just using it to make self-generating ambient patches which either control themselves or are triggered by measuring the brain activity of house plants.

I get the appeal, since it really is enjoyable to make noise. It’s a rather zen meditative sort of experience. But a lot of people seem to be under the illusion that it’s something more than that, or that another piece of gear (rather than hard work and skill) will grant the power to make good music that other people will want to listen to.

Here’s one of the memes I see going around in synth communities:

thisnameisvalid
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Klayking wrote:
From the tests that have been done, SST-20 emitters seem to be putting out only slightly more than half of the lumens that the XP-L HI emitters can in this light. I’m assuming this is because they are also on a limited power version of the firmware. How much is it limited again, 70% FET? Theoretically, could I squeeze a bit more light out of it with a modified version of Andúril (still less than 100% FET) without frying the emitters?

I put J5 (highest high CRI) bin FD2 SST-20s in my XP-L HI FW3A (No FET limit) and got 1900 lumens otf

mattlward
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I would not think the SST-20’s would require any kind of restriction. I think that the difference in output is just the nature of the hi cri beast and just the limits of the particular led. My SST-20’s get the full on version and I have not cooked any yet, but I do get out of turbo when it is to hot to hold with my wimpy fingers! Smile

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

cabfrank
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I also think the difference comes down to just the emitters. The SST-20s are a great tint, but the lumen difference is definitely significant.

Klayking
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I see. Thanks for all the answers, folks. Smile

freq
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Yes. The last firmware I sent to Lumintop was this build: http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2019-08-05.fw3a.hex

ok, that answers that – glad I asked… a digikey order next… thx…

(off topic) and that meme – stop it, you’re killin’ me… tears in my eyes from laughing so hard (again) for reasons I won’t go into here… but yes, more blinking shiny furniture, please…

ToyKeeper
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freq wrote:
(off topic) … yes, more blinking shiny furniture, please…

I enjoy it, but I don’t expect anyone else to care about the noises I make. I have a Digitakt and a Blofeld and a keyboard… and I figure if I can’t make good music with that, no amount of gear would help. The main limiting factor isn’t my gear, but my skill. And that largely depends on how much time I put into it.

freq
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ToyKeeper wrote:
I enjoy it…

that’s all that matters…
tatasal
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Arrived today @ NEALSGADGETS

LedTed
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Thanks for posting the pix. I’m anxious to get my order. Seeing the blue one, I wish I would have included one of those. I’m actually hoping a batch of “boring” black will be made. Then I have to order black and blue.

Enjoy the light show - LedTed

scosgt
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teacher wrote:
luckyeights wrote:
Even if you are to get it working with these instructions a reliable flashlight for every day use should not require constant adjusting especially new from the factory. Just by looking at how the inner tube is used for the switch and contacts with a bare contact point on the driver is cause for concern there is nothing pressing the driver into the tube like a spring to maintain proper contact from general wear. Simply unscrewing and re-screwing the head is going to wear that contact enough that it will not come into contact with the iner tube any more. If the tube was mounted on some sort of spring mechanism that compressed as you tightened it would be far more durable and robust. There is also no play, the head and tail tighten all the way down to the body so once it wears the only way you will be able to fix is to remove the driver retaining ring and driver and put a spacer in there behind the driver and reassemble. Tight tolerances as you say in this instance is bad, it invites unreliability which i do not want in a flashlight i rely on for daily use. If i pull a flashlight out of my pocket i expect it to turn on when i press the button consistently every time until the battery is dead.

If i have to mess with the tail cap and head all the time just to make it work it kind of defeats the purpose no ?

Facepalm Facepalm

It is not “if” you get it to work following the instructions. You will get it to work.

All due respect… the problem is not the FW3A, the problem is the man in your mirror…. you.

The light does not need redesigned according to your second guessing. The light is just fine as is.

So instead of moaning & groaning about the light, why don’t you just do what I & others have told you. Then yours light will work first time every time just like the rest of our lights do.

I have four (4) of them…. they all work first time every time. My four (4) are made exactly like yours, the only difference is you.

Complaining to Neal will not fix your lack of attention to this matter. Only you can “fix” that. Just do it & you will have a harmonious outcome that will beat complaining any day of the week….. Wink

EDIT: Again… follow these simple instructions step hy step & your FW3A’s will work just fine.

Many of us have had to do this with our FW3A’s, it is no big deal. Really, it’s not.
I did it to three (3) of mine….. once. No further issues after that. It only takes about a minute or two.

I know I am a little late to the party, but I discovered the real issue:
The driver board is sometimes not properly centered (this could be true of the board in the tailcap as well).
I had all the same issues and did all the steps several times.
The cure was to loosen the retaining ring on the head, CENTER the board by grabbing the spring with my needlenose pliers and getting it centered, and tightening it down. Since then, PERFECT.
Since the signal is carried in the tube, I am not certain if this was a bad contact issue, or more likely it was shorting out to the body through the ring. Whatever, this is the actual cure. All the other mechanations are probably just moving everything around until it somehow lines up.
Anyway, this is the issue when the light flickers screwing on the head (the flicker means there is indeed power) and the switch does nothing.
AND
If you crank it down too hard (your really don’t need to do that once everything is properly aligned) the easy way to get it apart is throw it into your freezer for about 5- 10 minutes, at which point it will unscrew with minimum effort (the metal contracts and it no longer grabs the shoulder).
Please, don’t ask me how I KNOW this works LOL.

scosgt
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ToyKeeper wrote:
I’ve heard that the hardware has had a revision in the most recent batch. Specifically it seems to have a retaining ring in the tail, and the nub has been replaced with a wider one. And a batch or two ago, they also switched to brass for the head retaining ring. These things should make it a bit more reliable.

Firmware also has been getting updated periodically. I think they have a version with factory reset now, but I’m not sure how long it’ll be before it’s actually shipped to anyone.

I got my copper yesterday. The ring in the head appears to be brass, and there is a ring in the tail. It is some kind of black metal.

scosgt
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And I ordered the purple one just because, Illumin shipped it out today.

M4D M4X
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scosgt wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
I've heard that the hardware has had a revision in the most recent batch. Specifically it seems to have a retaining ring in the tail, and the nub has been replaced with a wider one. And a batch or two ago, they also switched to brass for the head retaining ring. These things should make it a bit more reliable. Firmware also has been getting updated periodically. I think they have a version with factory reset now, but I'm not sure how long it'll be before it's actually shipped to anyone.
I got my copper yesterday. The ring in the head appears to be brass, and there is a ring in the tail. It is some kind of black metal.

 

that's the latest version

got it from Amazon this week... 

 all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :

ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!

delusional
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Is the newest Nubbin wider and thicker? We might need a new size drill bit to make new size nubbins.

Much Ado about Nubbin
I have not been posting for awhile, and thought I’d provide an update on my “nubbin situation” as if anybody cares.
The original orange gatorade replacement nubbin I made is still in the same FW3A. I just left it in there and it’s been fine.
On the first day I made it, I thought that the bottle-cap plastic may be too soft and it had deformed, but the nubbin just needed readjusted back into the correct position. I was thinking about making a nubbin from a rubber compound, but the plastic seems to be perfectly fine. Since then the light has been used in heavy rotation and I have had zero problems, of course always replacing the battery from the head.

Be thankful I didn’t hit you upside the cranium with a dozen extremely unfunny puns. In my post that got moved to the troubleshooting thread I had actually typed up possibilities and was attempting to work them into the post. Things like “Nubbin Lost, Nubbin Gained.” and “ True Knowledge Exists In Knowing You Know Nubbin.”. It was just too silly and in the end, I held myself down to only two puns! Consider yourself lucky.

ToyKeeper, I do not own any Synths, but I hear there’s nubbin better.

Woke up to this one day…

Good morning OCF&BD,
I’ve created a new disorder for you. OCF&BD
Obsessive Compulsive Flashlight & Battery Disorder – and of course, there is no known cure, because you keep recharging yourself.

ToyKeeper
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Yes, the new nub is wider. I haven’t gotten to see one yet, but Illumn took some apart to check for changes.

nobody
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delusional wrote:
Is the newest Nubbin wider and thicker? We might need a new size drill bit to make new size nubbins. Much Ado about Nubbin I have not been posting for awhile, and thought I’d provide an update on my “nubbin situation” as if anybody cares. The original orange gatorade replacement nubbin I made is still in the same FW3A. I just left it in there and it’s been fine. On the first day I made it, I thought that the bottle-cap plastic may be too soft and it had deformed, but the nubbin just needed readjusted back into the correct position. I was thinking about making a nubbin from a rubber compound, but the plastic seems to be perfectly fine. Since then the light has been used in heavy rotation and I have had zero problems, of course always replacing the battery from the head. Be thankful I didn’t hit you upside the cranium with a dozen extremely unfunny puns. In my post that got moved to the troubleshooting thread I had actually typed up possibilities and was attempting to work them into the post. Things like “Nubbin Lost, Nubbin Gained.” and “ True Knowledge Exists In Knowing You Know Nubbin.". It was just too silly and in the end, I held myself down to only two puns! Consider yourself lucky. ToyKeeper, I do not own any Synths, but I hear there's nubbin better.
I don’t know what you’re talking about — it means nubbin to me. 
M4D M4X
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Hello my dear friends!

this week i ordered a Lumintop FW3A from Amazon.de (reflink) and noticed many differences:

Overal both flashlights have same size and apperance (please ignore the blue button and the rubber cigar grip on my “V1”) but the “V2” (right) has a silver clip 
(note: the copper comes with silver clip too)

the V2 (right) has a bronce retaining ring in the head (silver in V1)

the V2 (left) has a black retaining ring in the tailcap (none/all loose in V1)

that black retainer in the tailcaps needs some space – thus the V2 (right!) has a shorter shoulder and the threads sit noticeable deeper… (the outer tailcap bodies are identically)

the inner tube of the V2 (left) has a much longer upper part then V1

V1 (left) uses a glas lens + carclo optic 
V2 (right) comes with Lumintops own optic (one pcs) 
-> i tested both optic setups vice versa in both lights and there is no difference in Lumen output!

all changes (i noticed so far) in one picture :

what did you notice?

 

 all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :

ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!

freq
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M4D M4X… thank you for this very concise comparison with pics… so helpful… I’ve been waiting to see these differences… much appreciated…

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Thanks for detailed pictures! As far as I know the PCB should be a bit wider so that it is better centered.

Is the beam shape and throw also the same with both optics?

M4D M4X
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maybe 5% average more throw for the carclo

 all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :

ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!

delusional
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I had specified that I would buy four FW3A’s in the pre-release list, but after I had big problems that turned out to be nubbin, I decided I would purchase only one at the cheaper price. In hindsight this was a mistake, but now I am quite happy to see the retaining ring in the tailcap, and plan to give FW3A’s for holiday gifts this year. I just couldn’t see giving a light to muggles with the nubbin falling out. It’s still only for adult muggles.

I hope the new design appears in the color-anodized versions soon.

Woke up to this one day…

Good morning OCF&BD,
I’ve created a new disorder for you. OCF&BD
Obsessive Compulsive Flashlight & Battery Disorder – and of course, there is no known cure, because you keep recharging yourself.

BOO5TED
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That’s funny because my FW3A I got from Neal has the silver clip, bronze ring in the head but no black retaining ring in the tail.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

byarnell05
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Does anyone know the size of O-ring that goes between the pocketclip and the tailcap? My Ti one I just received does not have one and the clip rotates too easily.

JasonWW
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BOO5TED wrote:
That’s funny because my FW3A I got from Neal has the silver clip, bronze ring in the head but no black retaining ring in the tail.

It’s not strange at all. The changes were not made at once, but over time. The silver clip and bronze retaining ring were early changes and the other ones are newer.

In fact, the silver clip and bronze ring were mentioned 2 or 3 weeks ago iirc.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

scosgt
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The copper I received Thursday from Illum has the brass ring in the head, black ring in the tail, V1 tube and longer threads. So there is a mix.
Once again, most of the reported issues seem to be on account of the driver board not being centered. If the brass lock ring touches it, it shorts out the signal from the switch through the inner tube.
Just loosen and re-center and for me at least all the problems went away.

Mine also has the two piece lens

ToyKeeper
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The issues with the driver being off-center appear to be the same issues the light was originally delayed to fix. So it’s disheartening to see that those issues stuck around so long. However, if I heard correctly, the design was finally changed in the latest batch to make the driver fit better.

Not sure why there was ever a fit issue at all though, since the first few prototypes were fine. It didn’t become an issue until later.

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