Don’t trust your bare eyes. I learned so much after I bought the TA lumen tube. The E07 is a flooder so the beam intensity is lower, which makes your eyes think it is less bright. For example, if I compare my Acebeam K75 that measured 4,100 lumens with my E07 that measures 6,500 lumens (both are CW), the K75 looks MUCH BRIGHTER to my eyes than the E07.
For anyone wanting to maximize their output, I gained about 1,000 lumens in both of my MF01S by doing a thorough cleaning. I took the battery carrier out, unscrewed the contact plates in both the tube and tail cap and gave everything a thorough clearning with detergent. I also wiped down the threads and contacts in the head with isopropyl alcohol.
This is a very good practice. I always wash my flashlights when I receive them from the factory. Most flashlights gain at least 10% from thorough cleaning like this one. Some of my flashlights see 20–30 increase in output after cleaning. It’s too easy to get thread grease on the contacts and batteries so you need to clean them occasionally. I also clean my batteries and contacts on my charger every once in a while.
Also if you must use thread grease, use a conductive grease like the NO-OX-ID.
^ any idea if the No-ox-id is hard on rubber or silicone o-rings? Been using super lube lately but seems a little messy.
Funny you mention cleaning. I just got my second MF01S and it had some kind of grit or gravel in the box when it arrived. I had to pop a couple small rocks out of the cooling fins and the light had some gritty powder that needed to be washed off. Thankfully no damage to the light, everything looks and functions just fine.
And an update about the faint noise coming from my purple 4000k light. The new green 6500k light does the exact same thing and both are working perfectly so I’m sure it’s completely normal.
It is a good practice to inspect every received lights before using.
I am interesed for two diffusers
I am interested in a diffuser for my MF01S. Could you please PM me the $1.99 deal?
First order (Aug 28 2019) arrived at Sept 11 2019...
Okay.
Shipping is usually fast for in-stock terms.
Interested in the red MF01S, is there still a discount code available? If so, a diffuser too
I’m looking for some info on the MF01S, probably mentioned somewhere but I’m unable to find it — what driver, eg. FET + 5? FET + 5 + 1?
On battery insertion, the flashlight is in regulated NoPWM mode — around how much current (7135 x ??) is it consuming in this mode, and also around how many lumens (I suppose around 700 lumens regulated level, on battery insertion, for the neutral/cool-white 18x SST20).
2 channel, a small FET with resistor bank good for about 500 lumen (since 7135 don’t work well at 6v), then the big FET for the rest.
Hi all,
I am a little confused about how the Auxiliary LEDs are supposed to function. If I turn the first dial so that the green LEDs get brighter the blue and purple ones go OFF. With that dial set to green being bright none of the other have any effect.
Is there only a set amount of current going to ALL of the emitters that is being divided up between them, and my only choice is how much goes to which LEDs? Or am I just doing it wrong? I would like to see all of the color LEDs be maxed out like the green ones are when only those are on.
Any help is appreciated 
Is the code still.available? Thank you.
Yes.
I ordered an MF01S but I’m not sure what batteries to buy. There seems to be conflicting information about whether it takes button top or flats. Can someone recommend a battery?
I’m thinking Samsung 30Q button tops.
Button top Samsung 30Q will work well.
You can technically use flat tops but it can stretch / tear the the 18650 wrapper and insulator from what I’ve seen online. If you already have suitable flat tops and a good soldering iron, solder blobs will work well too.
Thanks. I’ll get some 30Q button tops. There really should be some official clarification.
(might be a bit off-topic…)
Just saw your comment about looking for non-PWM drivers. I’m not that familiar with drivers, but I generally test if each flashlight has PWM (my method is a bit crude — I shine the light through a small portable fan blades). I’m not sure how fast the fan blades spin, but for BLF A6 driver or Biscotti or Bistro or NarsilM or Anduril, I can still “see” the fast PWM pattern on lower brightness levels, using this method.
However on some flashlights I tested, I couldn’t “see” PWM, so I determine they have No PWM (or are faster than what I can observe by shining flashlight thru the spinning fan blade).
These are some flashlights I tested using my crude method above, and I can’t “see” PWM on all their brightness levels (lowest, medium to high levels):
AAA flashlights:
BLF/Astrolux A01 (Nichia 219B) (Manker driver)
Lumintop EDC01 (XP-G3)
Lumintop Tool AAA (XP-G2)
ZanFlare F3 (XP-G2)
NiteCore TIP CRI 2017 (Nichia 219C) (keychain light)
AA/14500:
BlitzWolf BW-ET1 (XPL-HD)
18650:
Eagle Eye X2R (XM-L2)
ZanFlare F1 (XPL-HD)
Convoy S2+ (SST40 “4-mode” driver)
Wuben LT35 (XP-L2)
Eagle Eye X6 (XPL-Hi)
Sofirn SP32A v2.0 (XP-L2)
21700:
Sofirn C8G (XHP35-Hi)
Sofirn SD05 (XHP50.2)
26650:
Sofirn SP33 (XHP50.2)
(I think there may are some more I failed to list above)
I have Acebeam t27,h30 and h40. They are non-PWM