1st problem (with 3030 TRI-R SunLike too) - it is power. I mean real power. It is lower that in the datasheet. For example, 3030 SunLike is 6v0.15A = 0.9W (max is 0.2A) It is a lie! Real size of crystal is 0.2-0.25w, there is 2 crystals. So, real power of 3030 6v SunLike is 0.4-0.5w.
ok. okay… The same problem with 2835 from RoyRex (SamrtEcoLightning). What the real power? I do not know… Because I do not have it. 2nd problem is… They do not have it in stock. I tried to buy 100-200pcs for test, but no. They do not have it and will not produce with my quantity (samples, I need samples only for first time) 3d problem is… Another format, inpompatible with 3030 SunLike from SeoulSemico. And another - voltage! It is 3v, 3030 SunLike is 6v, 6v is more better fore me. And I have no board for 2835, but for 3030 I already drawed and have maked orders in pcb manufacturer. Here is it:
22x22x1.6mm (300pcs)
12.5x99x1mm (300pcs)
12x99x1.6mm (300pcs)
the last one 7 types for C5W (C10W) and W5W (T10) I have no about 100$ =( Somebody, make order on my web-site :cry:
Finally! Price. Wholesale price for 3030 SunLike is 0.25 $ per 1pcs (if 4000pcs), but I managed to buy it for 0.15 $ (it is some miracle, because I was not going to buy it, because I think that COB much better for me with their huge violet crystals). Wholesale price for 2835 SOLs is 0.1 $ and 0.05 $ if 500000pcs. It is good price, but if 3030 wholesale price is 0.15, it is not so good.
Heck yes, I’ll take that action. The bulb I’m waiting on was $17 before shipping. A 28% savings on the next order would be $12.24 per bulb. That means 7 bulbs for the price of 5.
What about a dimming option? Vast majority of lights I use in my home have a dimmer switch and I use them frequently. I very much appreciate brightness attenuation.
The image says it all. SunLike, could you please edit your #6 post here and add some spaces to the text chain? Thanks.
I've reported it to sb56637 to see if some improvement can be made to the forum engine, the above problem also occurs with unnecessarily bloated url links in the simple post editor, I think.
I tested how the diffuser effects the light. It’s very neutral and doesn’t result in any meaningful difference. The small change in tint is probably not even visible. It absorbs 8% of the light, which is also likely not visible. Measurements were done integrated after about 30 minutes of warming up.
I knew there was some capacitor swaps and stuff on the driver, but holy hell. I just skimmed through the 1.3 hour video of you doing ONE bulb. You are a madman. I don’t think I want to learn all that to save 28%. I’ll just settle for affording fewer bulbs.
Another thought:
I really like that bulbs. I would like to stock them up for various uses. But for quite a few uses they would be better if they focused on efficiency more than CRI…
F.e I just did a quick look at datasheets of CRI97 Bridgelux COBs (BXRE-40H6500-D-73 just to have a reference point). I have no idea if that’s the best out there, it may be but it’s literally the first that I checked. It can do 124 lm/W at 50W and about 150 lm/W at 24W. That’s way more than SAWS1566A which does 93 lm/W at 50W…and for me it would be way better in many uses.
