According to the shipper customers can receive their orders in 3-4 days. let’s see how it works.
I bought a used e07 and it has no candle/lighting/temp calibration modes…is this the simplified UI you are talking about?
I bought one of the first batch produced. It was pre-Anduril. It had a simpler ramping interface. The one you have sounds like an early version. Could it be these, above, are ‘new old stock’ for sale?
From what Fireflies told me, the first of the USA warehouse batch had a “simplified” version of anduril but now they are full anduril.
Recently I received a Fireflies E01 with 5000K SST40 and was surprised to find that it no longer has the simplified version but the ‘real’ Anduril with candle, lightning storm and all the blinkies.
I just realized that the optic used in my latest two E07 is narrower throw than the optic used in the older E07. Comparing my new E07 SST-20 with older E07 SST-20 and comparing my new E07 XP-L HI with older E07 XP-L HI, it is very obvious that the hotspots from the newer E07 are smaller compared to the hotspots of the older batch of E07 using the same emitter. However, I cannot tell a visual difference in the optics.
Ok, so, now that I’ve read this entire thread, I’ve learned a lot. The only thing that I still don’t understand is the debate on a 30T battery vs. 40T. Without getting really technical, which one is the best for the E07?
30T is for lumen testing only. No noticeable output differenc e in reality. 40T and P42A is best for XPL HI and SST20 std cri versions. Lishen LR2170SF best for SST20 hi cri and 219b
30T is for lumen testing only. No noticeable output differenc e in reality. 40T and P42A is best for XPL HI and SST20 std cri versions. Lishen LR2170SF best for SST20 hi cri and 219b
I bought a 30T on 18650 battery store for the DEAL OF THEDAYSALE. $3.99 BUT, the 40T was $6.99. Ok, thanks guys.
*SKV89, I’m having a MF01 Mini 4000K SST-20 FD which is going to be modded with the copper heatsink, so it’s also a opportunity to swap the leds.
In the beginning I was opting for the 219B SW40 but someone told me they are too violet under clear narrow tir optics. Besides I’m not thrilled to loose both output and range.
Do you consider swapping the FD2 SST-20’s to FA3 worthy?
The tint of the FD2 is okay-ish but far from decent imo.
—
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 ; Sofrin C01R 660nm, Mf01 Mini Nichia 219B sw35+sw40
From what I know, only Fireflies have the FA3 tint. Where do you plan to buy them from? Personally, I think DUV even on the BBL still appears kind of yellowish to me. You can see my test results in the Fireflies thread. I prefer DUV -0.02 to -0.06. Makes whites look whiter. Where did you get your SW40 from? Usually the SW40 is on the BBL unless you bought it from Clemence which is rosy but not as rosy as SW45K. I like the tint on the Clemence sw40 alot. Much more so than the SW45k. Btw, only the K versions are guaranteed rosy. With 4000K, I never think it looks magenta even if it is very rosy. With 4500k, it can get slightly magenta with very negative duv depending on how your eyes are adapted because 4500k contain more blue than 4000k.
What I think would be awesome is if you mix the SST-20 2700K with the SST-20 4000K. Should end up about 3500K but with decent rosy tint. Another possibility I was just dreaming about is mixing LH351D 2700K with LH351D 5700K 90CRI.
Maybe they’ll be willing so sell some emitters as addition to an order.
User Azhu sells 219B’s, so if I’d were to buy 291B from him, either SW35 or SW40 I will from him.
However switching from SST to 219B will means I’ll lose both output and range I’m afraid. And someone said to me SW40 will be violet under plain narrow TIR. I highly dislike the SW45K because it looks violet and grey to me.
The best led I saw up to date was a XML-2 5DA4 from Convoy under a pebbled TIR. It was noticeably less rosy than the HI 5D but still under the BBL. Very neutral, just perfect.
Mixing with rosy 3000K form Blue Swords group buy wil have a better effect on the tint.
The problem is I started liking 4000K again for daytime urban exploration when switching from daylight to 3500K or less is annoying.
—
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 ; Sofrin C01R 660nm, Mf01 Mini Nichia 219B sw35+sw40
Does anyone know if the 5000k XPL HI version has always been available in the V3 bin? For some reason I remember it being V2 before..or maybe that was the 4000k which is currently V2.
Does anyone know if the 5000k XPL HI version has always been available in the V3 bin? For some reason I remember it being V2 before..or maybe that was the 4000k which is currently V2.
Not sure but IOS has the XPL HI 5000K's (3C) in the V4 bin - I just ordered a few.
Does anyone know if the 5000k XPL HI version has always been available in the V3 bin? For some reason I remember it being V2 before..or maybe that was the 4000k which is currently V2.
Not sure but IOS has the XPL HI 5000K’s (3C) in the V4 bin – I just ordered a few.
I bought a used one so I don’t know the bin. I think fireflies just got the V3 cause it was V2 when I checked a few months back and Neal also still has the V2..so maybe mine’s V2. The person who I bought it from said he purchased it on October 2019. This probably doesnt help but the brightness is exactly double of the 5000k EC01. Sustainable output also seems to be very similar. It’s not that important but it would be nice if I could find out somehow. Is there a difference in tint between the V2 and V3?
While chatting with Fireflies, Jack was very kind to offer some face masks to include with my package. I asked if he can find some Level 3 or N95 face masks and offer them on his website, which would help so many people where facemasks and respirators, especially real Level 3 and N95 rated ones, are near impossible to find or extremely expensive due to supply and demand. The price is only going to go up at a very rapid rate given the world wide shortage.
He agreed to help and said he would like to do this to lend a hand to the world wide situation and not profit off of it. But I said given the time and effort he put into this and a family to feed it is justifiable to at least price this to cover the labor and overhead.
He searched around and talked to various sources and ended up ordering some samples from different manufacturers. He’s also asking for advice on ways to test them to make sure they are legit. Not sure if he will be able to test them as it seems hard to do without professional equipment. But he is talking to a contact that organized a large group donation to Wuhan that can point him to the right direction.
He told me he just sourced the very last 205 pieces of FFP2 N95 respirators from Russia and he is considering stocking some in the Calfornia warehouse for fast delivery to us.
He should soon offer them in the Fireflies store or you can also contact him directly for details. I would much rather buy these from FF than from random sellers on Amazon, Ebay, and Aliexpress where they can label the masks with any rating (e.g., $10 100,000 lumen flashlights).
Hey guys, I ordered the new 25 degree optic from FF and it arrived the other day.
QUESTION:
I cannot physically tell the difference between the new 25 degree optic and the older one. Would this indicate that I already had the 25 degree optic or is it almost physically impossible to tell the difference visually? Because when I hold the two optics in my hand and compare them side-by-side they look to be the same.
Hey guys, I ordered the new 25 degree optic from FF and it arrived the other day.
QUESTION:
I cannot physically tell the difference between the new 25 degree optic and the older one. Would this indicate that I already had the 25 degree optic or is it almost physically impossible to tell the difference visually? Because when I hold the two optics in my hand and compare them side-by-side they look to be the same.
Thanks for your help regarding this.
Just shine it against the wall and measure the size of the hotspot. Then replace it with the other optic and compare. The difference in hotspot size is very significant so it is easy to tell.
Hey guys, I ordered the new 25 degree optic from FF and it arrived the other day.
QUESTION:
I cannot physically tell the difference between the new 25 degree optic and the older one. Would this indicate that I already had the 25 degree optic or is it almost physically impossible to tell the difference visually? Because when I hold the two optics in my hand and compare them side-by-side they look to be the same.
Thanks for your help regarding this.
Just shine it against the wall and measure the size of the hotspot. Then replace it with the other optic and compare. The difference in hotspot size is very significant so it is easy to tell.
K. Thanks. Wasn’t sure if there would be a difference in looks as well.
Got mine today with a 219B emitter. However, i noticed something weird about it, the light flickers for a few seconds on max ceiling. Do i need to return this one? Thank you!
Got mine today with a 219B emitter. However, i noticed something weird about it, the light flickers for a few seconds on max ceiling. Do i need to return this one? Thank you!
Those 219b emitters don’t like being driven too hard. I actually kept my max ceiling set low as they will overheat and actually put out a purple tint that won’t go away when over driven.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but the damage may have already been done. It happened to mine initially as well.
they should not “overheat”, are you sure it’s not just the anduril blink telling you it’s at the top of the ramp? I dont remember if the stock E07 firmware has that or not
Hi! I know the quick flicker when reaching the ceiling ramp and the floor. However this one is a flicker for about 3 seconds then it disappears.
You should probably clean everything with alcohol (springs, threads, driver ring, and your battery + and -)
If you are using 18650 make sure to use flat top with their black adapter. If you are using 21700 make sure it is flat top and not too long (Chinese brand battery sometimes are while OEM brand is shorter)
From what Fireflies told me, the first of the USA warehouse batch had a “simplified” version of anduril but now they are full anduril.
The E01 has full Anduril now as well.
Recently I received a Fireflies E01 with 5000K SST40 and was surprised to find that it no longer has the simplified version but the ‘real’ Anduril with candle, lightning storm and all the blinkies.
I like it better that way.
My Youtube channel: Alllightson Reviews
7th OL contest build: Matainvoy ML18S 8th OL contest build: DDH ML778SL
My reviews: Sofirn SP31 V2, Nightwatch NI40, Sofirn C8F 21700, Brinyte WT01, Sofirn SD05,Ti AAA keychain, Sofirn SP33 V3, Skilhunt M150
My video-reviews: Brinyte WT01, Sofirn SD05, Ti AAA keychain, Sofirn SP33 V3
I just realized that the optic used in my latest two E07 is narrower throw than the optic used in the older E07. Comparing my new E07 SST-20 with older E07 SST-20 and comparing my new E07 XP-L HI with older E07 XP-L HI, it is very obvious that the hotspots from the newer E07 are smaller compared to the hotspots of the older batch of E07 using the same emitter. However, I cannot tell a visual difference in the optics.
Ok, so, now that I’ve read this entire thread, I’ve learned a lot. The only thing that I still don’t understand is the debate on a 30T battery vs. 40T. Without getting really technical, which one is the best for the E07?
The New Guy
both are overkill imo since the light heats up so fast on turbo its of no use really so much highdrains..
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
30T is for lumen testing only. No noticeable output differenc e in reality. 40T and P42A is best for XPL HI and SST20 std cri versions. Lishen LR2170SF best for SST20 hi cri and 219b
I bought a 30T on 18650 battery store for the DEAL OF THE DAY SALE. $3.99 BUT, the 40T was $6.99. Ok, thanks guys.
The New Guy
*SKV89, I’m having a MF01 Mini 4000K SST-20 FD which is going to be modded with the copper heatsink, so it’s also a opportunity to swap the leds.
In the beginning I was opting for the 219B SW40 but someone told me they are too violet under clear narrow tir optics. Besides I’m not thrilled to loose both output and range.
Do you consider swapping the FD2 SST-20’s to FA3 worthy?
The tint of the FD2 is okay-ish but far from decent imo.
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 ; Sofrin C01R 660nm, Mf01 Mini Nichia 219B sw35+sw40
From what I know, only Fireflies have the FA3 tint. Where do you plan to buy them from? Personally, I think DUV even on the BBL still appears kind of yellowish to me. You can see my test results in the Fireflies thread. I prefer DUV -0.02 to -0.06. Makes whites look whiter. Where did you get your SW40 from? Usually the SW40 is on the BBL unless you bought it from Clemence which is rosy but not as rosy as SW45K. I like the tint on the Clemence sw40 alot. Much more so than the SW45k. Btw, only the K versions are guaranteed rosy. With 4000K, I never think it looks magenta even if it is very rosy. With 4500k, it can get slightly magenta with very negative duv depending on how your eyes are adapted because 4500k contain more blue than 4000k.
What I think would be awesome is if you mix the SST-20 2700K with the SST-20 4000K. Should end up about 3500K but with decent rosy tint. Another possibility I was just dreaming about is mixing LH351D 2700K with LH351D 5700K 90CRI.
Maybe they’ll be willing so sell some emitters as addition to an order.
User Azhu sells 219B’s, so if I’d were to buy 291B from him, either SW35 or SW40 I will from him.
However switching from SST to 219B will means I’ll lose both output and range I’m afraid. And someone said to me SW40 will be violet under plain narrow TIR. I highly dislike the SW45K because it looks violet and grey to me.
The best led I saw up to date was a XML-2 5DA4 from Convoy under a pebbled TIR. It was noticeably less rosy than the HI 5D but still under the BBL. Very neutral, just perfect.
Mixing with rosy 3000K form Blue Swords group buy wil have a better effect on the tint.
The problem is I started liking 4000K again for daytime urban exploration when switching from daylight to 3500K or less is annoying.
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 ; Sofrin C01R 660nm, Mf01 Mini Nichia 219B sw35+sw40
Azhu’s Sw40 is not rosy. You can look at his first post in his GB thread for his duv measurements. Except for the sw45k, they are all on the bbl.
Does anyone know if the 5000k XPL HI version has always been available in the V3 bin? For some reason I remember it being V2 before..or maybe that was the 4000k which is currently V2.
Not sure but IOS has the XPL HI 5000K's (3C) in the V4 bin - I just ordered a few.
I bought a used one so I don’t know the bin. I think fireflies just got the V3 cause it was V2 when I checked a few months back and Neal also still has the V2..so maybe mine’s V2. The person who I bought it from said he purchased it on October 2019. This probably doesnt help but the brightness is exactly double of the 5000k EC01. Sustainable output also seems to be very similar. It’s not that important but it would be nice if I could find out somehow. Is there a difference in tint between the V2 and V3?
There shouldn't be, but there's variances. V2 and V3 are output ratings, not tint, so it's output lumens, disregarding the tint.
While chatting with Fireflies, Jack was very kind to offer some face masks to include with my package. I asked if he can find some Level 3 or N95 face masks and offer them on his website, which would help so many people where facemasks and respirators, especially real Level 3 and N95 rated ones, are near impossible to find or extremely expensive due to supply and demand. The price is only going to go up at a very rapid rate given the world wide shortage.
He agreed to help and said he would like to do this to lend a hand to the world wide situation and not profit off of it. But I said given the time and effort he put into this and a family to feed it is justifiable to at least price this to cover the labor and overhead.
He searched around and talked to various sources and ended up ordering some samples from different manufacturers. He’s also asking for advice on ways to test them to make sure they are legit. Not sure if he will be able to test them as it seems hard to do without professional equipment. But he is talking to a contact that organized a large group donation to Wuhan that can point him to the right direction.
He told me he just sourced the very last 205 pieces of FFP2 N95 respirators from Russia and he is considering stocking some in the Calfornia warehouse for fast delivery to us.
He should soon offer them in the Fireflies store or you can also contact him directly for details. I would much rather buy these from FF than from random sellers on Amazon, Ebay, and Aliexpress where they can label the masks with any rating (e.g., $10 100,000 lumen flashlights).
Hey guys, I ordered the new 25 degree optic from FF and it arrived the other day.
QUESTION:
I cannot physically tell the difference between the new 25 degree optic and the older one. Would this indicate that I already had the 25 degree optic or is it almost physically impossible to tell the difference visually? Because when I hold the two optics in my hand and compare them side-by-side they look to be the same.
Thanks for your help regarding this.
Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York
Just shine it against the wall and measure the size of the hotspot. Then replace it with the other optic and compare. The difference in hotspot size is very significant so it is easy to tell.
K. Thanks. Wasn’t sure if there would be a difference in looks as well.
Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York
Got mine today with a 219B emitter. However, i noticed something weird about it, the light flickers for a few seconds on max ceiling. Do i need to return this one? Thank you!
Those 219b emitters don’t like being driven too hard. I actually kept my max ceiling set low as they will overheat and actually put out a purple tint that won’t go away when over driven.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but the damage may have already been done. It happened to mine initially as well.
Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York
they should not “overheat”, are you sure it’s not just the anduril blink telling you it’s at the top of the ramp? I dont remember if the stock E07 firmware has that or not
Hi! I know the quick flicker when reaching the ceiling ramp and the floor. However this one is a flicker for about 3 seconds then it disappears.
You should probably clean everything with alcohol (springs, threads, driver ring, and your battery + and -)
If you are using 18650 make sure to use flat top with their black adapter. If you are using 21700 make sure it is flat top and not too long (Chinese brand battery sometimes are while OEM brand is shorter)
fireflies E12
Nice looking light.
That thing better be factory spring bypassed. Wonder what the head with is. Maybe 45mm?
Once I told them to make and E09 and they made an E12 instead
I’m not complaining though.
Looks like they just stuck the ROT66v2 optic in an E07. So it should be the same bezel diameter as the ROT66.
Does seem like it. That’s means it’d be 50mm. I’d prefer something smaller with less throw. I like the floodier beam profile on my FW21 Pro.
This guy problem solves
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