I cant believe I found it and only AU$400 and it cost less then the 11inch from the states, less than some of the lenses I have including fuel. It was well worth the 8hr drive there and back to get it.
I will go see if I can get some beam shots just holding an sbt-90 in front of it.
Awesome cliffs, pity they are too soft for climbing I have been looking at them for 40 years and you notice they well I notice how they have changed. That is on the edge of the wollemi and golburn river national parks.
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OK , I understand better now.
So your build will be adjustable focus between the LED and your first plano-convex lens and also the big adjustment between those two together and the big plano-convex lens to create a Zoomie. I do see your collimator covering the LED also.
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After you get it finished, may we get some dimensions from you for reference ? Nothing is better than working numbers !
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There has been much discussion on this subject over the years but very little experimentation that you are doing ” grin “. :+1:
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Keep up the good work and blaze the trail, we will follow you
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I should not have drawn the 2 lens that light will only have a single 150mm diameter lens with 177mm back focal length. I do have another lens combo for it but i will eventually build a light for them. I would like to have both lenses adjustable in my two element lenses. So for this light it will be 1 to make it simpler.
A couple of things have me puzzled one how to stop the piston spinning with the motor. Dowel or keyway im not sure. The other is how do I stop the led power cables getting caught.
Anyone can use my ideas I post here if they be crazy enough.
[quote=grin]
well I just sat the mirror up on a chair and taped a spider of a smaller recoil to the tripod and stood it in front of it. Led is SBT-90 @ 12amp
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WOW ! that is
Looks like a comet
Thank You for sharing with pictures
Be careful ! don’t let it get too hot !
I wonder how you could check the throw on it ? You would need to get a 800 meters away to check it !!!
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How to stop it from spinning…….( EDITED )
You will need a keyway to keep it smooth, preferably with the ( .187 square key ) key pressed into the full length copper heatsink if possible. Copper is sticky and a key sliding in the copper may hangup more than a key sliding in the bushing in the housing. Also, if you have room to make the bushing close in length ( OR LONGER ) to the diameter of the busing will help eliminate excessive wobble as it moves. A tight slip fit of .0005 or less should be good, start with a tight fit and a coat of high viscosity oil or thin coat of grease to keep it from locking up. If you make the bushing from Nylon or some other dense plastic you may not need oil or grease or worry about dirt or dust getting on the copper and binding or jamming it up. Oil attracts dirt.
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If you do go the other way and slot the full length of the copper heat sink, use a brass or hard plastic key in the bushing to stop sticking. I would use something non metal for the bushing so it does not jam or need oil.
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Thanks for the good words. I did win 8^)the MF01s is a nice light. I have been thinking about 8th annual comp. Maybe a right angle recoil.
here are the last few of the night
With an off-axis parabolic mirror?
I considered making one before, never ended up doing it because It was cheaper to just buy a regular parabolic mirror of a larger size and get more throw.,
It’s a cool idea though, never been done before.
Me experimenting with a few options from various brands, making sure they are fully covered with light when using a collar.