Wellp, just my 2¢…
I like the UI as-is. Simple and predictable for each channel. Other than the few odd bugs that were reported, I wouldn’t change the UI at all.
I’d more or less keep the reflectors. Deep reflector holes where each one cuts into the other two might be tolerable (and symmetric) if all the emitters are the same and all lit at the same time. Else each emitter (eg, red) will have a big “lobe” hanging off the side where the cutout is. Less hotspot, more spill. Yecch.
And the ’30 is a close-range flooder, frankly. The big-die ’351 pretty much assures this. And it’s perfect for what it does. Eg, low level UV to light up what’s right in front of you (eg, stamps, currency) and higher brightness for a hotel-room.
Me, I like the shape and grip of the light with the 26. Narrowing it to use a 21 does… what? Less capacity, less runtime… better grip? Anyone who likes, say, the SP33 as well as the WK30 knows how nicely a 26650 light fits the hand, despite being slightly bigger and heavier. I wouldn’t pocket a ’30 even with a 21, as the head would necessarily be wider. At least with the 26, it’s just a wider tubelight, and less of a plunger.
Photo-red? Meh. Okay, if someone needs deep red, but given the same output power (mW), Portland orange (“traffic red”) will appear brightest to the eye, then conventional red, then finally deep-red or photo-red the dimmest. I’ve got an old laser in deep red before more orangey “red” came into vogue (for precisely that reason: brightness), and while it’s a beautiful red red, it’s also pretty dim, relatively speaking.
So you know people will grex about the red emitter being dim, or demanding to run it harder, etc.
Texturing the grip I could do without. I like the stepped-hourglass profile for grip.
A lit switch could come in handy, but definitely not any “breathing” function. Used for battery-status, great! Dim dim dim dim dim red locator beacon, awesome! Maybe even a Nitecore style dim blink every coupla seconds. But now we’re either setting it in stone, or way overcomplicating the UI which is already semi-complicated for running 3 separate channels.
USB-C, mmmkay, but I could do without using a light as a charger. I want to be sure if plugged into anything, that it’d be charged, and not have charge siphoned off.