Honeycomb TIR C01R vs. standard optics C01S w/ Nichia 219*C*/4000K (I have no original C01S). AWB has obviously been adjusted to 4000K. Be aware C01S spot is significantly larger with the Nichia as opposed to the Luminus.
hth
Edit: Mixed up the Nichias.
Would a sealed/glued head interfere with the idea to change the TIR lens by oneself?
I swapped the optics in one of the recent C01S. Takes some force to overcome red threadlock, but works and left no marks on the body. But of course, it is certainly not for everyone. OTOH, it can be very frustrating to open the head by accident. That’s a strong argument for glueing it imo.
Had a little fun with a raw bead-blast C01S body and swapped the C01R light engine in. I think it actually looks pretty cool with the little red ring visible in the gap between the head and body. With a red tritium in the tail I actually think this would look pretty cool.
For those concerned with brightness on low, consider taking the head apart, and running this light as a mule. Without the optic, the floody red is much less intense on the two lower levels, and the extra bright high still manages to push out a lot of red. I will leave actual beamshots to someone with a DSLR. But here are some pictures I took with my phone for a rough comparison of what low looks like (in a lit room).
Stock TIR optic beam & beamshot:
Mule (no TIR/Optic) beam & beamshot:
Keep in mind for this to work you need to find a glass lens, or cut a small plastic disc out to fill the gap left between the head and pill, where the outer ring on the optic used to sit. without something there the head can screw down too far to have the light come on, and the LED is exposed. I made cut a small plastic disc out for my Mule C01S and have had zero issues.
Thank you and hope feedbacks and tips will be considered for improve both lights,would be great if you can advert us before the end of first batch,if there will be a second C01R batch
Thank you. Seems like lately everything I decide to buy comes from Sofirn. Tell them to keep it up!
Should be noted that I am the only one who seems worried, and I don’t even have one in my hand yet. That said, too bright a low would invalidate pretty much every one of the “Typical applications” listed in the lead post.
I accidentally changed modes from Moonlight-Low-High to High-Low-Moonlight while chasing a wasp out of the living room this evening.
You really need to twist the Sofirn C01R quickly to change modes.
I found that I had to twist from OFF to ON eight times at a rate slightly faster than 2 twists to ON per second.
Now the thread/head feels a bit gritty. :-/
Thanks for your feedback. I will let Sofirn know about this, so they may slow down the rate a bit for more convenience when switching mode groups.
I was given another suggestion:
Twist to OFF so that there’s about a quarter turn required to twist ON.
Press the head of the light like a ON button eight times and hold on the eighth press.
Each press should cause the light to switch ON. And it should power off and change modes when holding down for the eighth press.
This seems much easier than twisting.
Yeah 
It was attracted to one of the LED bulb ceiling lights in the living room. I opened a door to the backyard a few metres away from the wasp and switched on the external lights. I then walked across the room and switched off the living room lights.
The wasp stopped bumping into the LED light and everything went silent. I used the C01R to find my way back to the door. The wasp had dropped to the ground and was walking around near the door. After a few minutes it finally crossed the threshold of the door. I slammed the fly screen door shut…. and then I spent another 5 minutes waiting for it to make it’s way further into the backyard so that I could open the fly screen door and close the actual door.
My wife reminded me that insects are attracted to light and I should probably stop shining the red light at the wasp.
Mostly they are attracted to the blue light component of ‘white’ LED/fluorescent light. You should be OK with the red light.
RE: TIR Lenses
These removed out of the holders seem to be a match to stock C01S and I think they might be also what Clemence used for his special Jet-u run Nichia.
I wouldn’t bother with any of the narrow ones if the stock one isn’t what you want.
I just put some DC-Fix on mine and it is close enough. Smooth with plenty of spread. Low could be a little lower but I have no complaints. It will work nicely in preserving night vision with the telescope. Hi is very bright. Don’t see myself using it at all.
My little red beauty finally arrived. Apart from the pre-sale time, it went like this.
July 04th: picked up by shipper
July 05th: processed by shipper
July 06th: on plane
July 10th: arrival Luxemburg
July 20th: departure from Luxemburg
July 21st: arrival The Hague
July 22nd: arrival Amsterdam
August 06th: my place, 32miles from A’dam.
I guess the last 15 days were spend on back of an Über slug.
More than 2 months since ordering, from which actually 8 days on the move.
But all’s well that end’s well. And I like it, at lot.
anybody with a light meter, what are the lumen outputs?
got my lights today. works great but im having a very hard time to attach the mettalic keychain to the light 
wish they did this from the factory…. so far no luck…… maybe imstupid….
ah i got it too work after a bit of patience 
time to retire my astrolux a01 light now… so will have the sofirn and the olight uv keylight fun combo. Really great sofirn looks good on turbo.
