Emisar D3AA is available now

SKV89, thank you for sharing all those measurements.

I was under the assumption that 16x E21A mules would be limited to 7.5A CC only, and there would be no direct drive, because it isnā€™t safe. I am surprised that direct drive is enabled. Are you sure it is safe to use Molicel P26A for this?

D4v2 SST-20 2x4000K + 2x2700K seems really good.

How hard would it be to implement multiple drivers into a singular light say an Emisar D18? My use would be controlling pairs of emitters separately.

Actually I like the E21A 3500K better in person than the 2x4000K + 2x2700K. The tint is more uniform and rosier.

With 16x direct drive should not be a problem. Iā€™m guessing it would push each E21A to about 1A or a bit more.

Texas Ace tested 4x E21A up to 10A.

Here is Djozzā€™s test of a single E21A, which peaks at 3A and terminated it at 5A. Death current was 7A for a single E21A

I have two, and both show it to the same extent.

.

I appreciate the response, TK.

I cleaned the contacts, and actually very lightly sanded them to make sure thereā€™s nothing blocking the connection surface, but the flicker is still there. Now, when I say flicker, itā€™s very subtle. Itā€™s only really noticeable when youā€™re not moving the beam.

I tried varying the floor from 1/150 to 3/150, and the flicker is evident on 1/150 and 2/150, as expected.
When moving it to 3/150, though, itā€™s as if the very low level flicker from 1/150 and 2/150 is still there, but is masked by the higher brightness of 3/150. I hope that makes sense.

Itā€™s tolerable, I guess, but itā€™s also annoying when I notice it, and just knowing that one of my favorite lights isnā€™t stable at moonlight drives me mildly nuts since I use it every night.
Do you think thereā€™s anything on the code side that could be done to eliminate this? Iā€™m not familiar with the coding at a hardware level.

Thanks, again.

Edit: Would increasing the clock speed at level 3/150 make a difference? Or, maybe just disabling dynamic underclocking would be a reasonable test.

Might just be a flaky 7135, either the part or the reflow.

@Tom
The KR4 has no 7135. :wink:

Yes, it makes senseā€¦ and is quite possibly whatā€™s happening. Thereā€™s going to be a little bit of ripple. Letā€™s say thereā€™s 1 unit of ripple. At a brightness of 2, itā€™ll be pretty noticeable as it ripples from 1 to 3. But at a brightness of 100, itā€™s not noticeable since it only goes from 99 to 101.

Lowering the clock speed threshold level might help a little, or it might notā€¦ itā€™s hard to tell without trying it on affected hardware, and I donā€™t have affected hardware.

Regardless, I sent Hank an idea for how to improve the low levels. I also posted it here a few comments ago. I donā€™t know if itā€™ll happen, but itā€™s at least being discussed.

Whatever BOD setting you had me change on the MTN FET+1 fixed it for me.

Is that what you are suggesting here too? Why not have someone try it?

Have anyone flash your D4V2 E21A with this ā€œanduril.2020-07-08.emisar-d4v2.5-nofet.hexā€ firmware? Feedback appreciated!

Received my D4V2 Black with SS Bezel and Nichia E21A 4500K
What a beautiful light

4 Emisar D4 in comparison

The light comes with that firmware. 15 clicks from off and it will flash you the date in the form 20200708. Short flashes for 0.

Mine came with 20200427 slow rainbow considering to update with the latest available.

Iā€™ll most likely test switching off dynamic underclocking or lowering the threshold, but it will probably be a week or two. Iā€™ll be sure to report back.

Just got my KR1, but just isnā€™t able to turn it on. Iā€™ve tightened both head and tail of the light as much as I could and cleaned the sleeve from burrs using paper. It seems to be doing the factory reset just like this:

Using Samsung 30Q flat top. Help!

If itā€™s doing the factory reset, Iā€™d say the inner tube is making at least some contact.

Did you also clean the contact surfaces (ends of tubes)? Generally, I clean them with alcohol on a cotton swab, but the contact surfaces of one of my KR4 tubes had to be very lightly sanded to fix a connection problem.

Also, on the KRā€™s I think itā€™s best to carefully tighten the head first. Once you get it working reliably, leave the head alone for battery changes.

Finally ordered a K1 with W2 from Illumn. Iā€™ve been trying to decide between W2 and SBT and going for the W2.

That means the outer tube isnā€™t making contact. It might help to make sure there is nothing blocking either end of the outer tube, like stray bits of anodizing which might not have been removed, or anything else stuck on the ends of the tube or the outer contact surfaces in the head or the tail. Also, try to make sure the big spring in the head isnā€™t getting in the way.

Then make sure to tighten the tube to the head before tightening the tail. It shouldnā€™t need to be super tight.


Also, totally off topic, butā€¦ Itā€™s not often I see ā€œPosts: 1ā€ on an account 6 years old. How did that happen? Often times, people will respond with a ā€œwelcome to BLFā€ message when someone makes their first post, but Iā€™m not sure that works when so much time passed between creating an account and writing a first comment.

Welcome to BLF skinny01010!!!

Now we just need RacoonCity to post his traditional Milla welcome pic.

Trakcon - have tried cleaning with your method, also sanded the inner black tube per Hankā€™s suggestion. Still no luck unfortunately.

ToyKeeper

- as far as I can tell, the contact surfaces on both head and tail caps look fine, nothing seems out of place with anything obstructing contact. Was inserting battery from head earlier, have now moved to inserting from tail.

  • Yeah, was still in college when I created the account. Had other priorities back then. Now Iā€™ve got a job/money to spend on hobbies so here I am after a D4SV2.

Am currently in contact with Hank to sort it out. Thanks guys