That’s about the same as what I would guess. I dont think the battery is a cyclinder, probably a small lipo pack formed around the tube. That’s probably what allows the spring to be positive and not the center pin.
I’m using Nitecore Tube on my keychain as well. I like that the Tube is flatter than i1R 2, weight difference aside. The i1R 2 feels bulkier, even though it’s shorter.
The package arrived today. It was also that minty green! I’d bet that not many people wanted that color, so they are overloaded with those in stock.
True, although considering the cost saved by NOT making it user serviceable for battery replacement makes it a good bit cheaper. So inexpensive for them to make that they can periodically offer them for free as an Olight “product marketing” tool.
The only thing stopping me is this: (see below link for i1r 2 dissasembly)
So not only can I break it once but then a second time since LED is probably on driver board.
Done it before no problem but then this weird LED is probably one with no thermal pad then I’m screwed. Surely its E21A footprint right? Lol
Someone on r/flashlight disassembled the light down to the emitter/driver board: Reddit - Dive into anything
It looks similar in size to an E21A or E17A, someone more skilled than me needs to try lol
Interesting, wish he showed if there were components on underside of that board and at least measured something.
It is a Luxeon TX, right? That LED has a thermal pad.
Edit: On the original i1R, it looks like you’d need to rip off gasket and polarity protection, then reflow over a candle. Optimal position can be found with a scratch MCPCB and an IR-meter. Was easier with the i3E since it had a button contact. But if that assembly is press fit, all hope is lost for me. I’d need two lights to do such a mod. One to drill out the driver, keeping the shell intact, and one to nibble away the shell, having an intact driver.
Thx for the comparison pic Pete :)
Yeah I like how flat the Nitecore tube is, but I think I'll still get the Olight just in case I need it, since it looks to be a fair bit brighter ;)
well I broke some forceps that cost as much as the light using the wrong tool for the job. this one is going on the back burner for me.
I used my old lab forceps, about 50 microns tips and about 200 German Marks in 2000. Gift from a former employer. All went smoothly.
Are you referring to the version 2 or version 1? Your Luxeon TX comment refers to V1 because V2 is definitely not a TX and it’s head is assembled differently. If it is V2 you are referring to did you unscrew or pull?
Got you wrong. Referred to the i3E I mentioned.
Anyway, don’t own any of the i1R, just concluded from the pictures it was a TX. Only now noticed I saw pictures of the original i1R.
No longer sure I want one of those :confounded:
I will accept vintage pair of high quality German forceps as consolation for this oversight. 
You’ll get … my gratitude for all the good information 
:+1:
Got the same color as well, very nice output for the size and a great 5$ o light
Got mine today. It didn’t stay green for very long.
scalpel_ninja, it looks great! :+1:
How did you do that and what did you use, if you would be so kind to share?
Thanks!
I used Easy Off oven cleaner. I carefully sprayed some into a disposable plastic container. Then I removed the O-ring and used a small paintbrush to apply it, being careful not to get it into the charging port or charge indicator. Let it sit for 10 minutes, then wipe with a damp paper towel. I did the back half first, then the LED end. When finished, I wiped it again with a damp cloth towel. I installed the O-ring and twisted it closed and rinsed it in the sink to get any residual chemical off.
It was a bit splotchy, so I used a Dremel with buffing wheel and polish to finish.