That’s beautiful! So the left side is the 2000K KR4?
I just got the 18350’s lightbringer recommended and I’m getting some very weird behavior. I’m using the 18350 tube and middle piece
As I tighten the cap, the light will flicker really fast and then go to max brightness. The tail cap button doesn’t seem to do anything. If I tighten all the way, i get the last “background light” (I.e. steady green) and the button still doesn’t do anything
Still works perfectly with a Samsung or Sony 18650. Either I’m assembling it wrong in 18350 mode or maybe i need to get different batteries
Yeah I wonder if the 18350 is too long? It’s very tight to screw on. I tried putting the little metal ring with the lanyard hole in between the sections to see if that make any difference but no luck…
It seems like I was putting the black plastic “sleeve” in from the wrong end. I inserted it so the the “lip” is on the LED side of the 18350 tube and it’s working great. I also realized I was in muggle mode which was causing the strange behavior.
I like both, but I definitely prefer the E21A 2000K R9080. It just looks great.
My next goal is to try all of these amber leds, to see which one I like best:
Osram KY CSLNM1.FY [phosphor-converted]
Cree XP-E2 PC Amber [phosphor-converted]
Cree XP-E2 Amber [monochromatic]
Nice! I love this 2000K. Glad I got 4 of the 18350s because they obviously don’t last as long as the 18650s did. It started to dim and then actually turned off yesterday and the battery was at like 2.3 volts (:
Phosphor converted color LEDs are kind of fun. I already have a “Pure Green” Osram, which is indeed a very good thrower, and that tint of CSLNM1 can be driven quite far. Unfortunately I looked into the specs, and found, that the yellow/amber tinted CSLMN1 output starts to flat out much sooner. For it, I guess, a 3A current driver could be perfectly fine instead of a 5A current one (thus, not going to use Turbo on my Noctigon K1 /ordered, shipped, but not yet delivered/).
Still, I am very excited to see it. The “Yellow” has almost as wide spectrum as the “Pure Green”.
If you want a complete research on this, you could include Nichia E17A as well, as I recall, there are green, yellow and red tints all of them phosphor-converted.
No, not cool, it would be warm, LOL, just joking around.
Still, It might depend upon how and where you will be using it and your eyes. I have an XP-L High 7A 3000k that I do not use outdoors very much because it is too warm. It is fine around a campfire or indoors, but not walking in the woods. After that experience I have been staying with 4000k and some 5000k lights. But with the other issues like CRI, etc. you might like the 2000k, these guys sure do, so let us know. You might even convince me to try it.