Nichia 219BT-V1, R9080 Warm White, 2700K is available

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niajef
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by the other day, i mean like, yesterday lol

TimMc
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Yokiamy wrote:
Tom E wrote:

Oh no. The K1 disappeared. Did I miss this?

Well i did, i still didn’t buy one, was especially leaning towards a green K1 Sad

Edit, it’s back!
Edit 2, but you can’t order it

It looks like you can order it:
https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/k1-21700-thrower-led-flashlight...

TimMc
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I thought about getting cyan…

I ordered my first Emisar on the weekend (thanks r/flashlight Facepalm ):

Quote:

Emisar D4V2 High Power LED Flashlight

Color
Sand

Switch retaining ring
Raised version

LED & Tint
Neutral White – XP-L HI V2 5D, 4000K

Extras
one extra SS bezel (aluminum bezel by default) ,
pocket clip,
Magnet in the tailcap

Tom E
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Just was emailing Hank about an order and told him about the K1 listing - he didn't know, so he fixed it.

niajef
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Tom E wrote:

Just was emailing Hank about an order and told him about the K1 listing – he didn’t know, so he fixed it.

oh so it wasnt a stock issue…thats weird then, if the website just randomly decided to glitch out

oweban
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That’s happened for the D4SV2 within the last week, too… expiry on items?

Photon Master
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So I’ve been basically using my 2000K KR4 as my primary light in the house. On the desk while I work, having dinner in the evening, reading a book on the couch. Man do I love this thing…

Only thing is that (not surprisingly), the 18350s drain pretty quickly. Not a big deal because I have 4 that I cycle through. But today I got the 18650 tube back out and man, the light lasts forever with a Samsung 30Q. Like a couple hours and I was down to 4.05 Volts. I also was shocked at how much brighter the output is in max/turbo even thought I’m using high drain 18350s

lightdecay
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Has anyone measured CCT, DUV, and R9 of Hank’s E21A 2700K R9080 batch?

Hank Wang
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2020-11-6, D4V2 full copper version in stock,

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

Anthon
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Hank Wang wrote:
2020-11-6, D4V2 full copper version in stock, !https://intl-outdoor.com/media/wysiwyg/KR4TI/IMG_3623_1100px.jpg!

Nice!!

is it coated?

Jasetaylor
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D4V2 Copper….

Uh oh……….ordered and feeling guilty over flashlight expenditure.

Hank Wang
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Anthon wrote:
Hank Wang wrote:
2020-11-6, D4V2 full copper version in stock, !https://intl-outdoor.com/media/wysiwyg/KR4TI/IMG_3623_1100px.jpg!

Nice!!

is it coated?

No, there is no coating.

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

KyleGates
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If we ask nicely can we get the KR4 in all brass and all copper?

justanotherguy
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This hank guy is going to cost me my marriage

niajef
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justanotherguy wrote:
This hank guy is going to cost me my marriage

if this wasnt a flashlight forum, and if ur username wasnt so blatant. that couldve been interpreted to imply u were a mid age horny house wife…LOL

Frostcream
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But I just bought a 5th D18, to say nothing of the rest of my Hanklight collection.

This guy has such an addictive business model!

BurningPlayd0h
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Weight of the full copper version? It would be helpful to have that listed on the product pages for the Ti/Cu/CuZn lights as well.

Vbryanv
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I have to ask Hank if he could just keep my card on file and send the lights as they come out. No need to even inform me. Just keeps shipping them.

niajef
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Vbryanv wrote:
I have to ask Hank if he could just keep my card on file and send the lights as they come out. No need to even inform me. Just keeps shipping them.

a subscription service…interesting

Vbryanv
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Just keep shipping..just keep shipping…shipping shipping shipping shipping… just keep shipping

TimMc
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Would the copper version last longer on turbo compared to the standard aluminium option? Grad

contactcr
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TimMc wrote:
Would the copper version last longer on turbo compared to the standard aluminium option? Grad

If i’ve learned anything from The Fast and The Furious it’s that you can only shoot so much NOS into a Civic.

I dont have my copper FW3A anymore but I recall it didnt even last twice as long on Turbo. I think you do get a few more “shots” out of it until the light is totally saturated though. I think it also maintained like maybe 15-20% higher sustained brightness too. One quirk is copper lights sometimes “feel” hotter on the outside even if the electronics run slightly cooler. $.02 YMMV

niajef
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contactcr wrote:
TimMc wrote:
Would the copper version last longer on turbo compared to the standard aluminium option? Grad

If i’ve learned anything from The Fast and The Furious it’s that you can only shoot so much NOS into a Civic.

I dont have my copper FW3A anymore but I recall it didnt even last twice as long on Turbo. I think you do get a few more “shots” out of it until the light is totally saturated though. I think it also maintained like maybe 15-20% higher sustained brightness too. One quirk is copper lights sometimes “feel” hotter on the outside even if the electronics run slightly cooler. $.02 YMMV

really? u didnt learn any family values? lolol

Firelight2
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TimMc wrote:
Would the copper version last longer on turbo compared to the standard aluminium option? Grad

Possibly.

My understanding is that by volume copper can hold approximately 60% more heat than aluminum. This means the copper takes longer to saturate with heat so in theory it might hold more before it overheats.

But on the other hand, copper also conducts heat far better than aluminum. This can be both good and bad when it comes to turbo modes.

  • It is good because the better heat conduction helps move heat away from the emitters and other electronics helping them to stay cool.
  • However, the temperature sensor that controls the thermal rampdown is located in the MCU on the driver board. A copper head may mean heat conducts from the shelf back to the driver board faster than an aluminum head. This could result in the light ramping down as fast or even faster than the aluminum version.
  • You can mostly override thermal rampdown with firmware settings. However, copper again shows a disadvantage. It conducts heat so well, instead of just the head of the light being too hot to touch, the body tube itself might become too hot to touch. The result is the limiting factor in turbo output changes from “protecting the electronics” to “protecting your hand”. It doesn’t necessarily help if the light is able to run on turbo without damaging the electronics, but you need an oven mitt to actually touch the light without burning yourself (and possibly risk the battery overheating and exploding).

Another thing: Copper conducts heat better and has more thermal capacity than aluminum. But you still need to get the heat out of the light. There are three mechanisms that makes this happen:

  • Emissivity – the hot metal emits the heat as infrared radiation. Shiny copper or aluminum has low emissivity (bad). Dark anodized aluminum and tarnished copper has high emissivity (good).
  • Convection – air circulating around the exposed pieces of metal takes away heat from the light.
  • Conduction – your hand absorbs some heat from the light.

TimMc
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Firelight2 wrote:
Possibly.

I think this means that I need to get a copper version to compare with my first aluminum D4V2 that I ordered last week. Cash

lightdecay
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Is D4V2 Ti no longer available? The page does not work.
https://intl-outdoor.com/d4v2-ti.html

Jasetaylor
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lightdecay wrote:
Is D4V2 Ti no longer available? The page does not work. https://intl-outdoor.com/d4v2-ti.html

Appears to still be available here – https://www.noctigon.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=56

G.P.
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I just noticed that there are different colors of LEDs available for the backlight on the switch. Does anybody have any pics? Would love to see the red…

Jasetaylor
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The website appears to be down - https://intl-outdoor.com

 

SUSPENDED

This website has been suspended.

Please contact the technical support department.

 

https://www.noctigon.com is still up.

TimMc
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The website seems ok to me.

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