What did you mod today?

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Tom E
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djozz wrote:
That is a thorough way to solve it, of course deleting the post was not my intention :(

No prob, I had a copy and re-created the post in a thread on the Amutorch AL1 mod here, since there's no other threads in existence for this light.

The AL1 didn't get much attention and was dropped from BG, but still listed on the manufacturers site here:

https://www.amutorch.com/products/amutorch-al1-titanium-right-angle-flashlight1100-lumens

 

jon_slider
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Mod Brass AAA Tool to 219b 4000k 9080 sw40:

Mod Copper AAA Tool to 219b 3000k 9080 sw30

I figured out how to get the pills out without shredding the wires. Heat the head on my reflow hotplate for about one minute, set to 100C..

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e1000
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3000k from a copper light looks great!

contactcr
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Added some personal touches to one of Sinner’s new 18350’s. Click image or link below for gallery with a little detail.

Gallery: https://imgur.com/a/L8ijv3k

id30209
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contactcr wrote:
Added some personal touches to one of Sinner's new 18350's.

 

LUX-RC 371V2 with 351D?

Not bad, not bad at all sir!

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lumenzilla
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contactcr wrote:
Added some personal touches to one of Sinner’s new 18350’s. Click image or link below for gallery with a little detail.

Gallery: https://imgur.com/a/L8ijv3k

I’ve always wanted to own a Sinner’s. Impressive mod, Sir.

pinkpanda3310
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lumenzilla wrote:
contactcr wrote:
Added some personal touches to one of Sinner’s new 18350’s. Click image or link below for gallery with a little detail.

Gallery: https://imgur.com/a/L8ijv3k

I’ve always wanted to own a Sinner’s. Impressive mod, Sir.


^ What he said Thumbs Up

I had to make a new bezel on this copper light because the focus wasn’t right. I rubbed off some of the patina with the constant handling doing the mod.

I finally got around to fitting the lume1 driver to the TiCu so it now matches the damascus Love

 

jon_slider
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contactcr wrote:
Added some personal touches to one of Sinner’s new 18350’s.

Outstanding mod!
Great video, love the new driver’s headstand auto dimming..

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NeutralFan
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I modified an Astrolux A01. It had the dreaded next memory mode (NMM), so I tried the pencil mod trick.

Here’s the flashlight and head:

I used a tweezers to removed the pill:

I wasn’t able to reach the capacitor on the driver for the pencil mod trick and eventually the negative LED wire broke off. But then I was able to write across the capacitor with a pencil and put everything back together:

Unfortunately the NMM stayed the same. So I added some more pencil to the capacitor and then surprisingly it kept the mode to only low. I then removed some of it with a toothpick, and what do you know, it worked! After all these years of dealing with NMM, the flashlight finally works like it should.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

jon_slider
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NeutralFan wrote:
Unfortunately the NMM stayed the same. So I added some more pencil to the capacitor and then surprisingly it kept the mode to only low. I then removed some of it with a toothpick, and what do you know, it worked! After all these years of dealing with NMM, the flashlight finally works like it should.

Congrats! Beer

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jon_slider
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Modded a Sunwayman V11r to LH351D 2700k
it turned out really nice:

The beam is quite good, much better than with 219b and E21a.

Sometimes things just work out right, easily, the first time.

The larger die LH351D LED is a good match for the V11r reflector, that was originally paired with an XM-L2 from the factory.

low is 0.02 lumens, maximum is 385 lumens w 16340 at startup.

Im extremely pleased with the minimum output range, and pretty much blown away by the max output. The size and quality of the hotspot and the mostly smooth gradient blend of the spill, as well as the tint, are all excellent.

The LH351D transformed a light whose beam I was never quite satisfied with, due to a large shadow, midway out the spill, into a light I really enjoy using.

This is my first realization that the LH351d is a better match for a light whose reflector has a large opening at the bottom, than the smaller die 219b that I have used most.

I dont find the 2700k LH351D green tinted, it seems mostly golden to me. Thumbs Up

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NeutralFan
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Looks really good jon_slider! It’s great that we have so many awesome LEDs to choose from.

And thanks for the tip yesterday on the Astrolux A01 pencil trick mod. Thumbs Up

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

e1000
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I really like the emitter options these days. Between the SST-20, 219B/C and LH351D, there are a lot of good options to match either a reflector or optic with the emitter needed. I prefer the SST-20’s in triples, the narrow nature of the emitter produces a good end beam out of the triple. Sometimes either the 219’s or LH351D’s will work better in certain lights.

jon_slider wrote:

The larger die LH351D LED is a good match for the V11r reflector, that was originally paired with an XM-L2 from the factory.

low is 0.02 lumens, maximum is 385 lumens w 16340 at startup.

Im extremely pleased with the minimum output range, and pretty much blown away by the max output. The size and quality of the hotspot and the mostly smooth gradient blend of the spill, as well as the tint, are all excellent.

The LH351D transformed a light whose beam I was never quite satisfied with, due to a large shadow, midway out the spill, into a light I really enjoy using.

This is my first realization that the LH351d is a better match for a light whose reflector has a large opening at the bottom, than the smaller die 219b that I have used most.

I dont find the 2700k LH351D green tinted, it seems mostly golden to me. Thumbs Up

id30209
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McGizmo PD-S with current bump to 917mA and 351D 3500K


 

 

Thrunite T2 with Rgwn’s GT-FC40 and lens treated with Joshk “green delete” paint


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TIR optics seem to be a progression that many of us get to in the mod life of our favorite lights. And, it's cheap. I went with some single LED Carclo TIRs, ordered from LEDsupply. I have four S21As, all in 5000K, with an SST40, XP-L HI, Nichia 219C, or LH351D and I just had a bug to modify the beam of the last two. I changed the camera app setting to capture what came out closer to my eye's interpretation.

10003 Narrow Spot with 219C

10195 Frosted Medium Spot with LH351D

I bought the 10196 but haven't installed it in anything yet.

 

 

EDC

FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo Mtn20DD, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K

Recent/ongoing Mods:

S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, XPL HI 5000K | L2 w/Mtn17DD Zener Guppydrv, XHP-50 | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50

SP32A w/SST40 5000K | TIR Upgrades | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/6A 20mm & LH351D | S2+, Biscotti, Nichia 219C 2700K |

Reviews:

Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3) || Sofirn SC31 Pro 5000K

Unheard
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djozz found out how to max the output of the Sofirn C01. Here’s a comparison between the original Yuji ww C01 (left) and one modified accordingly using a rngwn 32K-EX (right):

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

MascaratumB
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Modded my Enogear/Fireflies AA Stainless Steel flashlight.
I picked the – already modded – 15mm driver with Bistro HD OTSM that I had in my Tool AA 2.0 Panda White, had to shave it a little more to fit in the brass pill of the Enogear.

I also picked the Luxeon V2 3000K I had installed in that same flashlight and put it into a 10mm DTP MCPCB I got today from LHT store in AliExpress. Well, and then I picked the pebbled TIR and also replaced the original clear TIR of this light.

I am not using the driver retaining ring because the driver is thicker than the original one and the ring doesn’t screw in.

Result: TOP! I like it, it only misses a FC switch instead of a reverse clicky! Aside from that, the DTP MCPCB will handle the heat better than the alu one! The beam is a floody warm white, which I love!

Now…I just need to make it a lanyard Wink

contactcr
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I modded mine with a FET only driver but wish I had a 15mm driver with a 7135 or some other regulation cause it’s too much. Where did you find a TIR for it?

MascaratumB
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contactcr wrote:
I modded mine with a FET only driver but wish I had a 15mm driver with a 7135 or some other regulation cause it’s too much. Where did you find a TIR for it?

I read about your experience on the flashlight thread and figured that it would be a risky move! But with a MCPCB and a different LED I guessed it wouldn’t be so hard on the light Wink
This driver is from Lexel and it has indeed a 7135 chip on the top of the driver.

The TIR is from this store at AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2048689105.html

I bought some a while ago and I’ve used (and still use) them in different lights! It has the same size as the original TIR Thumbs Up

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Man I looked for this so many times. I guess I overlooked that 17mm w/ holder = 15mm without holder Facepalm – thanks.

Next up find me a copper XP PCB that’s 1mm thick Smile – I think the “massdrop” AAA’s have them and some special lumintops. Wonder if they will sell separate?

And then finally a 15mm driver with some sort of regulation, Lexel MIA so I guess you have a very unique build!

MascaratumB
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contactcr wrote:
Man I looked for this so many times. I guess I overlooked that 17mm w/ holder = 15mm without holder Facepalm – thanks.

Next up find me a copper XP PCB that’s 1mm thick Smile – I think the “massdrop” AAA’s have them and some special lumintops. Wonder if they will sell separate?

And then finally a 15mm driver with some sort of regulation, Lexel MIA so I guess you have a very unique build!

Ahah, measurements when considering the holders are somehow tricky Silly I never use them, just the optics! And these fit well in other lights too (DQG Slim TI, Sofirn SF10, SF14 V1, Tool AA…) Wink

As for the PCB, check these, the ones I ordered: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000588505913.html
This is the Kaidomain store in AliExpress, as you’ll see for their other products Wink

Yeah, unfortunately Lexel may not be well and did another pause here, so these drivers are not available now. I wanna order some myself, for other mods, but I am not sure when will it be possible!

Hope you can do a nice mod with you FET on driver and those MCPCBs Wink

contactcr
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I have those and probably some from MTN too. I vaguely recall it created a bigger gap than I liked with the pill. Guess I just need to sand them even though I dread doing it. There was some good suggestions in the last pages on doing it however. Using a hard stainless 1mm washer with 10MM+ ID might be the quick and dirty way.

MascaratumB
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contactcr wrote:
I have those and probably some from MTN too. I vaguely recall it created a bigger gap than I liked with the pill. Guess I just need to sand them even though I dread doing it. There was some good suggestions in the last pages on doing it however. Using a hard stainless 1mm washer with 10MM+ ID might be the quick and dirty way.

Hum, when you say the gap, you mean between the PCB edges and the borders of the pill?

This is how it looks in mine (nevermind the soldering Big Smile ) :

I won’t bother too much with that because the contact “forced” due to the pressure of the optic+gasket in the MCPCB will make it get in contact with the pill!
As for the pill in the head and tube, I have no gaps when putting it all together Wink All fits well, no gaps or rattles Wink

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contactcr wrote:
I have those and probably some from MTN too. I vaguely recall it created a bigger gap than I liked with the pill. Guess I just need to sand them even though I dread doing it. There was some good suggestions in the last pages on doing it however. Using a hard stainless 1mm washer with 10MM+ ID might be the quick and dirty way.

 

I have found during SP10S emitter swap that Sofirn mcpcb is the same size as those in Olight Warrior Mini but for 3535 emitters. And Barry doesn’t want to sell them

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Ger
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USB BC1.2 charger for Convoy S2+

Intro

I was looking for the ultimate low budget cycling lamp. Discussed with my cycling mates, what would be good to have in the lamp: long lifetime or fast chargeability was on the top of the list. And one of them said: long lifetime and fast chargeability (charging while lighting), because he is riding long distances! Challenge accepted and started my design. My choice for the host is Convoy S2+, because it’s price, quality and availability. But it is just at the diameter of the 18650 battery, so it can be good for any single cell flashlight.

Looked around for the charging solution, I found a new device from Maxim Integrated, the MAX77751, which is a tiny form factor, but clever and powerful USB BC1.2 charger with up to 3.15A. Solid.
Additionally, I have to find a place in the host, where all the electronics can be inserted. One of my design aspect was to keep the original lamp as intact as possible, which makes this harder. But managed to make a small compromise, as I found another key component, the Hirose CX90 USB type C connector.

Mechanical design

Two PCBs are designed.
PCB A holds most of the components

PCB B is designed to be the contact for the battery:

Manufacturing

Manufacturing was easier than you think. Just using cheap stencil, solderpaste, heatgun, steady hands and voila:

(I burned the Molex PCB connectors a bit on PCB B, but I can live with that Big Smile )

PCB B is sandwitched over PCB A to create a thick, COIN shape object:

Added a thick solder layer to the contact surfaces for the battery (BATT+) and the driver spring (SYS, the C-shape exposed pad on the picture) connections. On the edge, a copper wick is soldered for GND:

Note the cutout on the host tube. Electrical tape and rubber O-ring added to the USB type C connector.

Using drills and files and caliper for exact measurements a cutout on the top part of the lamp is made. The idea here is simple: every time you tight the thread of the tube and the head, their position is the same. First I made the cutout on the tube, relative to the Convoy logo. Then I projected this position to the outer side of the head and drilled and filed the oval shape object:

Here, you can see during charging. The small red/green dot is the indicator, shining through a tiny hole.

Engineering notes for the mechanical parts:

  • You have to pair the head and the tube, because of different item has different thread start position, making the alignment of the U-cutout of the tube and the oval cutout of the head wrong.
  • It is not water resistant. However, the Hirose connector has O-ring and watertight the mounting surface is not flat, but cylindrical there, having a small gap. The hole for the LED can be made watertight.

Electrical design

The schematic is based on the Maxim datasheet:

Straighforward design, however I have to add some engineering notes here:

  • The maximum current is limited to 1500mA by R4. I don’t want to kill the battery, but at the same time, I have to provide some juice for the lamp. As you can get max. 3.15A from the source, the remaining ~1,65A should be enough for that.
  • The topoff current is set according to the battery datasheet. Around 200mA we are OK in my case
  • Your charger will close the GND and SYS as you pluh the USB connector. Or you will close by your switch on the lamp before and light up. In both case, your driver will be activated, while you are charging. Since I want to keep the rest of the lamp intact (incl. whatever driver you use), I have to use this compromise. I just simply use a low power hungry mode (moonlight) during charging. On the other side, If your lamp is in a power hungry mode, the charging do not turn on. Other negative effect is, that during charging, you cannot control your lamp, since you cannot interrupt the GND line.
  • One mistake in the design: I used red for status, however, green would be more logical.
  • Important: if your PCB manufacturer cannot make buried vias, doublecheck their position, not to interfere with the SYS expode pad. That’s why I have v1.2 Facepalm
  • The Molex PCB connectors are a bit overkill here. You can find cheaper and easier solutions

And one for PCB B:

There are some additional components on the schematic, because an evaluation board is made for exact measurements and for testing other USB connectors. They are marked with DNP (do not place) on the schematic:

I used EasyEDA for designing, JLCPCB for PCB and stencil manufacturing. Here are the sources for v1.3 (other connector, swapped LED), feel free to use them and enjoy.

EASYEDA files

Cheers,
Gergő

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^ OMG how’s that for a first post Shocked Ubercool Ger

 

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Shocked Wow. Just WOW.
Ger
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Thanks.

Cheers,
Gergő

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MascaratumB wrote:
Modded my Enogear/Fireflies AA Stainless Steel flashlight.
I picked the – already modded – 15mm driver with Bistro HD OTSM that I had in my Tool AA 2.0 Panda White, had to shave it a little more to fit in the brass pill of the Enogear.

I also picked the Luxeon V2 3000K I had installed in that same flashlight and put it into a 10mm DTP MCPCB I got today from LHT store in AliExpress. Well, and then I picked the pebbled TIR and also replaced the original clear TIR of this light.

I am not using the driver retaining ring because the driver is thicker than the original one and the ring doesn’t screw in.

Result: TOP! I like it, it only misses a FC switch instead of a reverse clicky! Aside from that, the DTP MCPCB will handle the heat better than the alu one! The beam is a floody warm white, which I love!

Now…I just need to make it a lanyard Wink


Awesome!

My 2nd Enogear light with sw4500 219b was not working well since i got it and ended up on the shelf. I bought a couple of the new announced Reylight drivers, which should fit, hopefully it will work out pretty nice!

I will let you guys know the results when the parts arrive

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