Cowboy… when I’m dressed up (but I am from South Texas)
I’ve about gone through a pair of Ariat ($175 pr. “waterproof”) boots after three years of hunting in the field (*which was plenty wet) and they held up ok- but are nowhere waterproof anymore. They are also cold (but I wear 18650 battery heated socks with them now and they work well enough). But the uppers are about gone and I never re-soled (and won’t as they just aren’t worth messing with now). I polished them (learned that at military school) a few times… but the upper didn’t hold polish well.
I am trying to remember the brand my guides in Wyoming suggested a few years back- $300 a pair BUT those guys literally hunted 120 days a year and said they’d own nothing else.
I have the rubber waterproof mud boots (with Thinsulate) which are fine in 12” of ice water- BUT heavy after a day of chasing after ducks/geese.
I’d like to find an insulated, leather upper’ed, waterproof boot that don’t fail after two years like the Ariat’s did. Any ideas???
Every few months a thin layer of waterproofing spray. Every few weeks (depends on usage) intensive cleaning and Fibertec Shoe Wax. Quick rinse after every use if any dirt is visible.
Besides scrubbing with saddle soap and brown polish, I haven’t use anything else. Maybe that is the problem! I have some 303 waterproofing I use on my hot tub vinyl and pop-up shade/rain tent. I never thought to use it on boots (leather) so maybe that would be good to try???
I always wanted a set of Irish Setters in the past, but heard they were a hard to break-in boot. The Ariats fit well from the get go, but the uppers really crapped out fast. If I thought I could use something high-tech to revive them, I’d try it. But with cracks in the leather uppers that polish isn’t filling, I’m thinking about starting over after this years hunting is finished (two weeks of Canadian goose to go).
I suspect the waterproofing on many boots (and leather in general) made today is a one shot deal if using silicone at manufacturing. And the lack of “breathability” (sweating feet) in boots is the result. I would prefer to get boots that don’t have silicone added, but need some maintenance. I think I will call my old guide up north and ask him again… and start with a better boot up front this next time.
Depends on what I’m doing.
Timberland pit boss for most work.
Ecco receptors or Merrell moabs for hiking.
Bogs or an LL Bean pac boot for cold weather work.
I still have a nice pair of Stewart cowboy boots that I bought in ’86 or so; sadly, my feet have grown. I’m hoping to pass them on to my son one day.
About 5 years ago I developed arch pain in one foot, and I tried about 7 or 8 different kinds of insoles. “Sole” brand inserts are the only brand that helped, and they fixed my problem. They can be heated in the oven for a couple of minutes, then put them in the footwear and stand on them; the arch sort of custom-molds to the wearer’s feet. I wear them in practically ever pair of shoes and boots. They have cork and EVA; I stick with the EVA and recommend them wholeheartedly.
Danner 200 gram insulated Ft. Lewis boots for the last 27 years. Traffic on hot asphalt, no problem. Winter hiking, no problem. I get a new pair every 4 to 5 or so years.
For winter hiking with my dog I wear Oboz Bridger 8” insulated boots. They’re waterproof and keep my feet nice and toasty, and they have a clip for gaiters when the snow is deep. Also nice and supportive, though they could use a bit more traction on ice.
For regular boots I have a pair of the old Chippewa Katahdins from LL Bean before they moved production to Vietnam. I plan to keep them a good long time and have them resoled when necessary. It was one of the only boots I could find in half and wide sizes at my shoe size, so the fit is exceptionally good as far as my shoes go.
also looking for a second pair of boots and thinking about some of these Jim Green Razor Backs - thinking I might want a second pair with more cushioning. Though having plantar fascisitis before a good solid boot seems help me keep that from happening. Might try some of the insoles you guys mentioned
I rotate them out every few days to let them air out. More often if it’s raining, summer, or I’m just really working. I get about 3-4 years on a pair before I replace them. Local stores here normally have a sale on them every few times a year and I’ll buy a pair to hold on as back up when one of my other pairs start to wear out. Wish there was somebody local to have them resoled but it would most likely cost more a new pair. A lot of times by the time the cattle and my shop work gets the better of the toes and the steel starts showing.