What did you mod today?

Wouldnā€™t it be great to get a constant current driver with Anduril and limit it to the current you specify?

With my E17A flashlights, Iā€™m using a Convoy Driver for SST40 ,12groups which maxes out at either 5 or 6 amps depending on the size. I then set it to group 8 which limits the current to 50%, so either 2.5 or 3 amps.

Ideally it would be nice to go up to 4 amps, but with the 4 modes up to 50, Iā€™m very happy with the driver and the flashlights get plenty bright. The 0.1 moonlight mode is very low and the driver accommodates a lighted tail switch without a bleeder resistor, which is also very nice.

Itā€™s possible to specify current limit, but requires rebuild and reflash. Hereā€™s an example of 2A configuration: What did you mod today? - #9478 by g_damian

If you change the 10mĪ© (R010) resistor to 15mĪ© on the 6A Convoy driver youā€™ll get 4A. On a constant current Anduril driver that uses a current sense resistor like lume1 or noctigon for comercially available ones, current can be changed the same way, or like G_damian mentionned by modifiying the ramp.

I have swapped emitters in my FWAA.

Now running Osram CSLNM1.TG




Recently I bought some 5A/6A Convoy drivers (17mm/20mm simple 4 mode and the 12 groups). They installed single R020 instead of the older ones with R010, I donā€™t know if another parts might changed too, but it still managed pulling 5-6A at the tail. So you need to make sure before changing the resistor.

great photos
great improvement in throw
congrats :+1:

If Osram could just move down to 4500Kā€¦ NM1s make a great EDC beam in triples.

Thx Jon!

Oh i agree

Mine also have the R020 resistors. So it appears changing the resistor (like to R030) with these newer drivers wonā€™t reduce the max current?

No you can :
Vsense = R * I
Vsense = Rnew * Inew
Rnew = R * I/Inew
As you said Rnew = 30 mĪ© for Inew = 4A if I = 6A.

That seems way too complicated to me. :cry:

Iā€™m fine with just having the Convoy SST40 drivers max out at 50% for my E17As.

I reprogrammed the tail in my v11r. Due to the slow pwm it screwed with the camera and i couldnā€™t get an accurate video representation. In person it looks like a burning ember (kind of a sped up candle flicker)

Very nice. What clip do you have on your v11r?

Itā€™s an mcbrat clip. Some clearer pics here

What better and fast method to make the surface of the shelf lapping and remove those residual steps?

I thought first file the edges of the pill (2mm height of material) and then get to the shelf with fine sandpaper

I never found an easy and good way to lap a surface inside a cavity, just tedious imperfect ways. But on some occasions when that was no problem I have indeed removed the entire edge of a pill, then it is easy to make a perfect surface.

Looks like that pill screws in from the front of the torch. So it relies on the ā€˜lipā€™ to stop the pill screwing in too far.

So long as you donā€™t completely remove that lip or the tweezer holes, itā€™ll be easiest to cut back the edges like you mentioned.

like this?

View post on imgur.com

Yes,pill itā€™s from old C8 with glued 16mm Ledā€¦that I would mod with 3A driver + SST20 or 5A XP-G2.
At least the shelf is not concave,but have machine marks and lacks screws that hold mcpcb.
Iā€™m afraid that the pressure of the plastic reflector isnā€™t enought for heat transfert,
I have also a spare Alu reflector,but it will require a 20mm mcpcb to avoid short circuit and enlarge holes cables