I just want to mention this is a generally a bad idea. The Vf of a diode is dependent on its temperature, the current supplied to each type of emitter will be different and most likely not going to result in the output or beam you think it will unless the Vf is closely matched. Remember we aren’t running resistors to each LED with this driver.
[quote = Hank Wang] [quote = Tubercle] Требуется версия этого светильника 21700, больше энергии для 8 излучателей. [/ quote] Мы желаем, чтобы свет был как можно меньше и компактнее, в то время как 21700 сделает свет значительно больше, что не является нашим намерением. [/ quote]
The thickness is no more than 2 mm, and the length does not increase at all if you remove the eyelet for the lace and possibly the magnet.
I received my D4V2 Ti with XPL-HI T6 8D emitters and made some measurements to compare the max output level to other Hank lights I own. I will post them here, as a point of refference for anyone that is interested. Included, are 2 D4V2 Ti lights with Nichia 219b emitters, which I modded myself. All lights use the standard driver except the E21A lights that use the 5A CC driver.
According to my measurements, Hank's lumen values are quite optimistic. I have calibrated my setup with 3 professionaly measured lights and all Olights that I measure are spot on (Olight is known for giving accurate lumen values). That said, the lights are still very bright, just not as bright as advertised.
Here are my measurements. All values are at startup. The batteries used were a 20A 18650 and a 10A 18350.
D4V2 Ti
XPL-HI V3 3A
D4V2 Ti
XPL-HI T6 8D
D4V2 Ti
219b sw45k
D4V2 Ti
219b sw30
D4V2 Ti
E21A 3500K
KR4 Ti
E21A 2700K
KR4 Ti
E21A 2200K
18650
3693
2365
1634
1455
1041
949
775
18350
2991
1961
1478
1292
1041
949
775
The (very) first impression on the T6 8D emitters is that they are very warm and nice. They are actually warmer than the E21A 2700K but not as warm as the E21A 2200K, so I would guess they should be somewhere in the 2500K area, but I do not have the equipment to measure that. They seem to have a pleasant tint, below BBL, but next to the 219b sw30 they look greener by comparisson, albeit warmer.
Colours rendered under the T6 8D pop quite nicely and the reds are much better than the R9 value of the emitters suggests.
All in all, a very nice emitter. I still prefer the 219b emitters, but a 62.5% increase in brightness while being also about 500K warmer and maintaining a >90CRI is a definite win for me.
Appreciate you taking measurements but IIRC Olights are also known for having cool tints, and from what i’ve read on here meters don’t always read consistently across tints so it may be that while your setup is good for cool white it may not be accurate for warm white. Is that a possibility?
Any chance of making a variable tint version of the Emisar D4?
For variable tint, you would need 2 warm emitters and 2 cool white emitters. (probably SST-20s would work best). They would need to be on separate channels so you would likely need a custom quad star.
But apart from the star, everything else can be done with stock components. Anduril 2 comes with built-in support for variable tint lights so you can use existing firmware.
I have a Sofirn IF25 which uses 2x 3000K SST20 and 2x 6000K SST20 with variable tint. It actually works quite well and is plenty bright enough. The light is just a bit big and lacks Anduril. A D4v2 with the same 4 emitters and variable tint would be perfect I think.