Been messing around myself recently whilst waiting for the resin to arriveā¦. I just used thick superglue which actually dried rubbery, but rigid and not brittle.
Made a glow disk for my little fatty BC15 and filled the lanyard ring on the FW3A, looks quite trick 
!
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Iāve been making some glow gaskets for my C8+ Anna-40-6 conversions. I tried to find some good glow in the dark 3D printer filament. The best I found was made by SunTop, which was OK, but not great. The other stuff I got was just awful.
I then tried moulding one with UV resin and Strontium Aluminate. I made the mould using alginate and dropped in one of the 3D printed gaskets, it worked, but the mould dried out.
I bought green and aqua Strontium Aluminate, the green is brighter. I also bought some LIT, the worldās glowiest glow pigment, by Stuart Semple. The Strontium Aluminate is just as bright as LIT and much cheaper. The brightest below is the original Strontium Aluminate UV epoxy cast (mid left), next brightest is the SunTop filament (bottom left), the rest are the best from a pack of 6 glow in the dark filaments, which are useless.
Next step was to 3D print some positive moulds, to make negative moulds using RTV silicone, then some slow set crystal clear resin and Strontium Aluminate to make the final gasket (sorry no photos). As well as the Anna-40-6 I made some Anna-40-7, a skull lanyard bead and some large hole beads from a mould off ebay, to use up any excess. First gasket and bead went on a C8+ conversion I made for my Dad, and gave to him on Fathers day. The second batch are in the garage curing. The resin used a 1% hardener ratio, which is difficult to measure. I had to buy some more accurate ādrug dealerā scales. It also takes 7 days before you can start to clean it up.
Iāve already put the designs for the Anna-40-6 and Anna-40-7 on Thingiverse (Anna-40-6 glow gasket by ecotack - Thingiverse). Iām not saying they are great, but they work on my Anet A8. Iāll put the moulds on there if anyone wants them.
Nice job!
I used 50/50 Green LIT and Strontium Aluminate (coarse, not powder - better glow) in the disk and just yellow LIT in the lanyard holes (to try it out on itās own).
Iām not that impressed with the LIT really, it doesnāt last anywhere near as long, mixed it seems to work better though.
Hi all,
Bravo CRX for all these amazing creations, you are both an artist and an extremely skilled craftsman!
I'm new to the GITD world and would like to start with easy jobs on flashlights, hence a few requests for advice:
On the other hand, I've found a few GITD powder and/or paint suppliers, but most charge deterrent shipping fees to France: Glow-on is $18 for an item weighing only a few grams (4.6ml vial + small sheet of glow film), i.e. more than the item value, and Glowtec although UK based (the country nextdoor) charges even more: Ā£25 for such a tiny item 
Glowinc charges slightly less (about USD15 if ordering through eBay), moreover their website is extremely informative.
Any other supplier suggestions are welcome.
Thanks in advance
another optionā¦ strontium aluminate in nail polish
glow paint arrived 
pic is a link to more info
They are just 700 miles awayā¦ I walk fastā¦ LOL
and they gave me Swag:
like 
The discount 15% code shown in your photo of SPR15 works fine.... just ordered some. Thanks!
glad it helped
I look forward to your impressionsā¦
morning after, update
I was able to see the blue glow on my nightstand all night long, it was still visible when I got up at 6am. I did not precharge it before bedā¦
Im really entertainedā¦ this glow is bright and long lasting
choices are good:
.
Im very happy with itā¦ the glow is Very Strong.
there seems to be a LOT of glow powder mixed into the acrylic. In fact it is a bit thicker, more viscous, than I would likeā¦
but I got it to work well enoughā¦ without resorting to any of the thinning optionsā¦
I feel the TechnoGlow company is doing a very good job at offering High Quality options. I also found them very quick and easy to communicate with. I would definitely do business with them again.
update
after the Acrylic Glow Paint dried 24 hours
while adding a jump ring to the tail of my light, I inadvertently poked a hole in the edge of the Glow Paint. It is not hard like epoxy, it is soft, and rubbery, a bit like silicone. This makes it easy to remove.
interesting item
no experience, google barely helped me understand how you use a stack key holderā¦ esoterica musica
applause for your resultsā¦ including moldmaking, another area of inexperience for me
did your final glow resin dry hard like a surfboard, or more like gumby?
i still find that glow in the dark tape, is very glowy and cheap and i don;t need to do anything more than it does
i put it inside the head of my FW3A, around the TIR optic, and it works great.
and i have it around most of my lights so i can find them in the dark, maybe.
and other stuff - like door edges and sharp furniture edges that will be in the dark in say a bed room
door knobs, things you need to find in the dark
it is SUPER cheap, i got like $4 worth of it 5 years ago and still have not run out
also i will put it on the end of clock hands so you can kind of see them in the dark too
car keys
wle
testing the acrylic paint on an opticā¦
it goes on a bit gloopy, but shrinks as it dries
unanticipated white face:
you can see some of the uneven coatingā¦ not bad for government work
so far so fun
will share bad news if it bursts into flames or melts into a puddle
have only tested turbo for a few seconds ā¦ working up my courageā¦
so far so goodā¦ (the material is water based, does not smell volatile).
I hope it gets night soonā¦ lol
The Glow is Strong!
===
still waiting for dark
painted the reflector on a Thrunite Ti3 w 3000k 219b
===
update on Lumens output
the triple optic lost 50% of its output from painting the optic
the reflector in the Ti3 did too.
It would be hard for me to recommend the glow paint on optics and reflectors for those reasonsā¦
glow paint on the mcpcb:
I like it
I see you bought the Ultra vs. the Standard. Performance wise, it seems very comparable, except that once past 60 minutes itās rated to be nearly double the glow output of the standard.
They also sell a GITD tape that they claim is better than most industry standard stuff. I wonder if itās much better than the Captank GITD tape I bought.
I like the glow paint on the MCPCB to minimize any changes in tint/CCT or lumens, but does the heat burn it off?
I share your concern
I have not seen any heat damage
So far it seems to be OK,
specs say acrylic paint
is heat tolerant to 160C
this is my first experience with acrylic paintā¦ it feels similar to silicone, it is rubbery and springy, and easy to removeā¦ so far, it just works.
Makes me smile
Good to know. May have to try some for fun.
Today I reflowed 219b LEDs onto the FWAA MCPCB that I painted glow paint onto. Instead of peeling the paint off, I did a test.
I put the board on my hotplate set to 200C, the glow paint started to glow, but it did not burn. I replaced the 3 LEDs and all is well
nothing bad happened to the acrylic paint, the glow dots still work after the reflow.
Thanks for sharing your glow paint mods and coupon! Iām going to try using some of it on a couple MCPCBs Iām reflowing.
Do you know if the paint is conductive? I think the powder is metallic.