Nice one Scallywag. What are your impressions of the engineering of these headlights? They’re outsourced by Sofirn and maybe Boruit? The body tube seems to be an extrusion with offset rails. The charging port behind the switch cap is a nice feature that I’d like to see on more lights - no rubber flap that binds or I mistakenly take for the soft switch cover (in the dark).
I had changed the D10 w/ LH351D (5000ºK) but kept the original driver as I felt it suited well my needs (M2, M1, L , H - no Mode Memory) and being only ~ 600 300lm on start, most often needed light level. I use it every day working in my shop - no need to play some contortion with the Luxo lamp to inspect the finer details of a driver, drill edge, digging in some bin, etc. I kept the D25S w/ the SST40 (6500ºK) for those times I need much higher illumination. I don’t keep it on all too much as the coolness gives me a headache, which is strange as most of the illumination at my bench is 6000ºK
Edited the start light level. 2nd click within 2 sec. brings to H (~600lm).
Nice, djozz! Anodising is something I'd like to try someday, too. If I might suggest, consider buying a cheap high speed steel bottoming tap and that will allow you to get a few more threads in those holes. The hss ones from China are decent enough and sometimes you can get them for just a few bucks. Alternatively, you can carefully grind down and clean up a normal plug tap to make it bottoming, just go slow and keep it cool. What you have is probably fine but considering the leverage and small fastener diameter + aluminum I'd feel more comfortable with more threads if it were mine. That anodising turned out really nice looking, good job.
I find the build to be quite sufficient. Most of it is even pretty good - like you said, the charging port inside the end cap is a nice design. However, as others have noticed with the D25S, it lacks a gasket for the front piece of the optics assembly. I think I would still trust it in the rain, but the D10 is surely better for water resistance.
it is acrylic paint… google says acrylic tolerates up to 320F… might not be proper for a centering ring… not sure
its kind of thick… might be a bit tricky to put on the centering ring, in a way that does not alter how the reflector seats… also dont know if a tiny amount around the led would be very visible.
share what you learn
its kind of thick and does not flow flat… I did a second coat to even out the low spots… and Im quite happy with it now:
Simple pocket clips - never thought about adding it here, but figure in case nayone i ever looking for ideas. I use copper washers or wire to make the electrical connection for lights that aren't meant to have the "captured clip (i.e. fw3a clip installed onto the emisar D4 & DT8). I did about 20 minutes of dremel work to widen the KR4 clip to fit the e07x body. I used the bench top grinding wheel to narrow the "arms" of the Olight M2r Pro clip to fit the D4s. I think one of the best and easiest is the Convoy s2 clip on the D4. never falls off no mod needed.
Sorry, I don’t have any photos of it being dismantled and it’s quite tricky to assemble after being in parts. Only other mod I have on it is pocket clip from Convoy store and spring bypasses. Those reflectors are filed down to correct diameter and then connected with JB weld.
If I was hinted at this mod about a year ago, I would have undertaken it. I had ordered a Sofirn C8F with the 3 LH351D emitters – but was lost in the shipping. After a much longer wait, Sofirn agreed to send another. However, they had no more in stock and I had to wait some more for the manufacturing schedule. All in all, 158 days (~5 months).
Aftermath: But in the following days of that 2nd order, so mysteriously showed up the 1st order. So now have 2 lights.
My stock lights don’t heat up much on high – 1800lm. On turbo (3600lm) it’s a different story. If your’s doesn’t heat up at these levels, I would suspect the shelf extension may not be transferring thermally to the head sides. Does it have much contact with the bowl? Nevertheless, the Sams are tough emitters and are a great choice. All milky white and just the right balance between throw and flood.
I use them on my bike. Best combo of throw with spill. Mostly on High with some moments on Turbo, and after some 2 to 2½ hours, change to my second unit.