Throwers usually aim for maximum Output, and that’s more the domain of lower Kelvin LEDs, like 4500K and lower - 6500K and High CRI is still pretty rare, because of the high blue light output that comes naturally with 6500K or even higher.
But tbh, I don’t see any advantages in a high CRI thrower, because you don’t see a whole lot to begin with (smal Hotspot) and you certainly can’t see a lot of difference in the colours as well.
For wider beams, that is different, because you use them for close up stuff where you can generally see more
You can get a KR1 with a SST20 4000K if you really do want the high CRI. If you are fine with just neutral temperature then you can go for one of the XP-L HI or the SST40 in 5000K.
Building a KD S3 21700 tube light with a SST20 4000k and 5A or 6A Convoy driver would be your best hiCRI tube thrower. 20-22kcd is my estimate.
Decent CRI from a XPL or XHP35 HI in a 80 or 85 cri bin (good luck finding one these days) will be the middle ground. (maybe XPG2 could be found too). Maybe high 20’s kcd.
A very very good tinted 70CRI XPL HI like a 5D from Hank can satisfy the non-snob. 30kcd should be possible with enough current.
Max throw out of a tube light would be around 60-65kcd with a 1mm² Osram
Thanks, are there any guides you could recommend for doing this? I’m reasonably competent with electronics principles but have never built a flashlight.
I’m sure there are somewhere here, and plenty of people will happily guide you through any issues too, but it’s really super easy. If you can use hand file, tweezers, and solder two wire joints, you’re set! The host accepts 20mm drivers and 20mm led boards.
The biggest question mark is what driver and UI you want. Convoy’s 12 mode groups are nice for their flexibility.
The light comes pre assembled under the Ekoras brand - model R7. You could start there and swap the emitter later if you like. Everydaysurvivalgear
has a review and teardown of the light. Ekoras R7 Purple Swaggg
Btw, the reason to choose this light over others is that you gain a precious 1-2mm of reflector diameter and also a bit more depth that other tube lights. 21700 is also nice for this style imo since the proportions are better balanced. I’d go to an FW1A (my edc) if you want 18650, but Anduril isn’t everyone’s cup of tea.
Thanks, I’ll have a think about it. I might wait for the S2+ with 219B to arrive first, maybe I don’t need one light that does everything. I could use the Fenix as a thrower and the S2+ for close-up.
Seems like it’s a choice between SST20 (high CRI) or Cree XP-L HI at 4000k, but given what was mentioned at the start of this thread I’m leaning towards Cree XP-L HI in 4000k for more throw/lumens but with (hopefully?) neutral colouring.
Am I on the right track? I guess what I’m really looking for is something similar to my PD32 but that doesn’t turn everything white.
Looks like a neutral equivalent of the PD32/35 isn’t possible because those emitters only come in 6500k colour, so I’m guessing Cree XP-L HI at 4000k is about as good as it’ll get.
For a thrower you want a very small led to maximize focus by the reflector or optic, and Osram seems to be the champion of that.
I’d go for a Noctigon KR1 with an Osram W2 led mainly because it’s Anduril and everyone seems to like Hank lights around here:
I’m sure there are alternatives though. Anyway, look at the candela ratings of the different leds on that page (scroll down) to get an idea of the throw. The Osram would seem to give quite a pencil beam. Next thing after that would be a LEP (white laser).
rather than 7135*8 which would be the highest output driver. Why would you not want the strongest driver? Surely output can be regulated through the software if you want to run it on a lower brightness… so I think I’m missing something.