[Design with Terry]Wurkkos TS32 15000+ Lumens Flashlight Concept

106 posts / 0 new
Last post

Pages

Wurkkos Terry
Wurkkos Terry's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2021 - 04:25
Posts: 104
[Design with Terry]Wurkkos TS32 15000+ Lumens Flashlight Concept

[Updated Sept 22nd 2021]
Hi BLF friends, we want to go to Anduril 2 UI, but we have to go to our plan B for some reason.

That is
TS32 with dual switch, individually control spot light and flood light.
Better heat dissipation design.
Let me know how you think about it. Thanks.

Hi Wurkkos friends, we have another new product concept, first let me know how you think about the design.
Emitters: 12 SST20+ 1 SFT40
User Interface: Anduril II or UI of HD20
Battery: 3 21700 batteries
TYPE C charging and discharging.
and now your comments below.

Wurkkos for all workers

www.wurkkos.com(link is external)

 

Facebook: Wurkkos Terry

Email: wurkkos_marketing@163.com

Contact me if you want to review, buy with coupon, design with us.

Edited by: Wurkkos Terry on 09/22/2021 - 06:13
Wurkkos Terry
Wurkkos Terry's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2021 - 04:25
Posts: 104

I know there is a tint ramp in the Anduril II, thinking it should be okay to change that part into Beam distance ramp. How do you guys think about it? Is there someone I can contact to do so? Your help will be very appreciated.

Wurkkos for all workers

www.wurkkos.com(link is external)

 

Facebook: Wurkkos Terry

Email: wurkkos_marketing@163.com

Contact me if you want to review, buy with coupon, design with us.

zoulas
zoulas's picture
Online
Last seen: 13 min 54 sec ago
Joined: 06/01/2020 - 08:35
Posts: 1950

No comments until run time and ramp down graph is posted.

Lights that run on turbo for 10 seconds and step down to 200 lumens are deceptive and misleading.

mortuus
mortuus's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 23 min ago
Joined: 12/16/2014 - 09:33
Posts: 3096
Location: Sweden

For that many emitters then deeper fins needed for that kind of lumens otherwise very short runtime turbo.

I think better not use too high lumens and instead lower but longer runtimes on turbo is way better then super high and then a drastic drop to like 2-3000 lumens…

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

              つ ◕_◕ ༽つ

Fescron
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 12 min ago
Joined: 10/17/2020 - 10:16
Posts: 204
Location: Belgium

As I already said on the Wurkkos Facebook post, I really like it! I only miss some aux LED’s Innocent I’d prefer Anduril 2 over HD20 interface, having the ability to use both type of LED’s at the same time (the beam distance ramp you mentioned) seems to be a good idea! Maybe we can even have the SBT90.2 LED over the SFT40 ? Although the tints will be too far apart I guess :/

I was looking to maybe buy a Sofirn Q8 Pro (powerbank functionality was a nice bonus) but seeing this has that as well and is a combination flood/thrower I’d 100% buy this one over the Sofirn! Having a light like this would be so nice to me because sometimes I carry a separate powerbank, flood & throw light, and this is all-in-one with replaceable 21700 cells Love

whokilledJR
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 8 min ago
Joined: 06/03/2012 - 13:05
Posts: 732
Location: Vietnam

Looks very interesting, output will certainly be very efficient with that many leads and I like the look of the heatsinking fins, they’ll need to be deep and numerous along with some weight as heat in a compact size light like this will be the main issue.

The acebeam X80GT is a similar light which looks even more compact and can sustain 3600+ lumens for over an hour with 18 xhp50.2 emitters.

Some of the more recent wurkkos and sofirn lights have fairly good active heat management, get that right and this light has a lot of potential.

dthrckt
dthrckt's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 33 min ago
Joined: 11/08/2011 - 10:11
Posts: 4614
Location: Upstate NY

Good start. I agree w/ above, more surface area of cooling fins.

I really like the idea of ramping the throw, sort of like a zoomie.

At the risk of my comments being totally disregarded….that’s what I’d prefer. Focusable TIR with SFT40s. I imagine that’s costly to design and manufacture, but if the emitters were well focused when zoomed in I bet it’d sell like hotcakes.

ch1ir
Online
Last seen: 11 min 44 sec ago
Joined: 06/08/2019 - 06:30
Posts: 441
Location: Lou, Ky

I’m in for andruil but I believe you cannot run both at the same time. Niwalker has a good ui for their mmx18 model maybe that could be looked into

Any lumen estimations yet?

Emisar D⁴, Astrolux C8, BLF A6, Sofirn sp36aV2, Reylight Mini Pineapple, BLF 348 KillZone, Lumintop IYP07, Emisar D18, Boruit D10, Manker e01, Ultrafire z1, Massdrop titanium AAA, Astrolux HL01, Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia, Tacklife LFL3A, Astrolux FT03, Zanflair T1

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 28 min ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 3158
Location: Central IL

Looks interesting. I don’t see any reason why Anduril 2’s tint ramping functionality (like in the LT1) wouldn’t work. You can’t use the LT1 hex file though, if for no other reason than it having temperature regulation disabled. I would think we’d also want to disable to automatic tint ramping feature; not that it would hurt anything it just doesn’t make sense to me for flood/throw ramping.

PyriteParachute
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 9 hours ago
Joined: 07/28/2021 - 00:29
Posts: 47
Location: Southwest USA

The SST20 flood portion should be available in 2700k/4000k mix to remove green at low levels. I’d prefer osram culnm1.tg in the middle for maximum throw.

PyriteParachute
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 9 hours ago
Joined: 07/28/2021 - 00:29
Posts: 47
Location: Southwest USA

Please be sure to include a flat top adapter like convoy 4×18a.

ch1ir
Online
Last seen: 11 min 44 sec ago
Joined: 06/08/2019 - 06:30
Posts: 441
Location: Lou, Ky
PyriteParachute wrote:
The SST20 flood portion should be available in 2700k/4000k mix to remove green at low levels. I’d prefer osram culnm1.tg in the middle for maximum throw.

Agreed on high cri warmer tints, I would prefer Xhp35 in the center. It is still superior to the sft in my opinion.
Thank you Lee Terry please keep us informed

Emisar D⁴, Astrolux C8, BLF A6, Sofirn sp36aV2, Reylight Mini Pineapple, BLF 348 KillZone, Lumintop IYP07, Emisar D18, Boruit D10, Manker e01, Ultrafire z1, Massdrop titanium AAA, Astrolux HL01, Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia, Tacklife LFL3A, Astrolux FT03, Zanflair T1

tactical_grizzly
tactical_grizzly's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 14 min ago
Joined: 11/08/2020 - 14:54
Posts: 45
Location: North Texas

Very interested in this light!

Definitely use Anduril 2. The simple UI is just as easy as HD20’S ui, but the advanced UI allows enthusiasts to customize. There’s no excuse not to use Anduril 2 here.

I think the SFT40 & SST20 mix is perfect. Please make sure to have 4000K as an option for the SST20’s, preferably a good bin with neutral or negative DUV please!

I would love for this to use 4×18650 cells instead of 3×21700 cells because I have other lights that already use 4×18650’s. Perhaps an alternate body tube could be an option?

Regardless of battery type, please include a flag top battery adapter like Convoy does on the 4×18A and 3×21A so we can use the batteries we may already have if we want to.

Finally, please include a tripod hole on the tail like the BLF LT1 to allow the light to be hung upside down or to ceilingbounce on a tripod. Some magnets in the tailcap would be cool too.

Thank you for taking feedback! I’m very excited about this light!

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 28 min ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 3158
Location: Central IL

ch1ir wrote:
Agreed on high cri warmer tints, I would prefer Xhp35 in the center. It is still superior to the sft in my opinion.
Thank you Lee Terry please keep us informed

Ehh, I don’t have any problems with the XHP35 but that’s a 12-volt only LED which would mean a boost driver. Not that Wurkkos couldn’t do that, but it would complicate things for sure. For me, I don’t see any problems in using the SFT40 (or an Osram).
ArtieT59
ArtieT59's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 42 min ago
Joined: 02/25/2020 - 17:55
Posts: 2989
Location: CT, USA

I just read this on Reddit, and this is my post for thoughts. 


This is exciting! I love the design! Here are my thoughts:

- great layout using sst20 & sft40. Please offer sst20 in Hi Cri, 2700k option too!

  • my vote is 3 x 21700

- Consider - two mcpcbs. (1) mcpcb for the single center emitter and a Second mcpcb for the 12 outside emitters (gives buyers options for modding the inside emitter to different footprint 3V LEDS - osram, sbt90, etc.)

- Anduril 2 or Narsil UI only (narsil is a great UI for high power lights that do not "require" all of the extras that edc lights have like auxiliary LED controls, and narsil still have battery check which is VITAL)

- Needs a 1/4 x 20 threaded hole

- please include HANDLE in box

- please consider RETAINING RING for driver not glued in.

- back lit button

- consider COLORS- even if just DARK GRAY or SAND / TAN

very excited to see this light come to fruition, if it's a beast, I'll defintely buy more than one! Modding capabilities would be AWESOME.

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

ArtieT59
ArtieT59's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 42 min ago
Joined: 02/25/2020 - 17:55
Posts: 2989
Location: CT, USA

gchart wrote:
ch1ir wrote:
Agreed on high cri warmer tints, I would prefer Xhp35 in the center. It is still superior to the sft in my opinion. Thank you Lee Terry please keep us informed
Ehh, I don't have any problems with the XHP35 but that's a 12-volt only LED which would mean a boost driver. Not that Wurkkos couldn't do that, but it would complicate things for sure. For me, I don't see any problems in using the SFT40 (or an Osram).

 

agreed, for as much as I like the xhp35 HI 4000k (one of my favorite emitters), the sft40 is equally as impressive. And I would rather have the added numerous options of 3 volt emitters for that center led. Xhp35 and gt fc40 are the only 12v emitters I can think of that are worth using.  

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

kokosnh
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 07/02/2021 - 06:27
Posts: 55
Location: Polska

I agree with ArtieT59 :
- 3 x 21700 >> then 4 x 18650  (and offer yours 21700 rechargeable battery 5000mAh 3C 15A in bundle to this light)
- sst20 in Hi Cri + sft40 is good (4000k tint for sst20 should be more universal, but well we have spare power, and 2 x 6 2700/4000K can still be bright by themselves)
- Anduril 2 
- a 1/4 x 20 threaded hole on both sides, so you can mount handle to it, and have switch face to you (right-handed / left-handed). I see something on one side, but don't know if it's it. 
- please include HANDLE in box, or atleast to buy separately. 
- deeper fins needed, ass always on this type of light (i want to mount it on handle, and use on HIGH for long)
- TYPE C charging and discharging (YES 3A, or PD, it's 3 x 21700)
- backlit button, and use your normal rubber switch, no plastic as in TS21. 

For the Beam distance ramp, if you go for it, make sure it's not 100% fold - 0% throw, to 50% fold - 50% throw, to 0% fold - 100% throw, by one 1H. 
But just adjusting the brightness for fold and throw separately by 1H, 2C for changing between changing fold and throw brightness distribution. 

Here I was thinking that there are no good and fun tin can flashlights, and you just make me want to buy one.

Ps. I want to see somebody mounting MATEMINCO fan handle to it  <img src= " />

tactical_grizzly
tactical_grizzly's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 14 min ago
Joined: 11/08/2020 - 14:54
Posts: 45
Location: North Texas

Having a tripod hole and the button on the same side so that you can use the the button while holding the handle with the same hand is a great idea.

kokosnh
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 07/02/2021 - 06:27
Posts: 55
Location: Polska

if we go that far, can we just have a repeat button on the handle? and hole to mount handle on the side? But that would drive the cost higher, so it probably would be sold separately.

tactical_grizzly
tactical_grizzly's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 14 min ago
Joined: 11/08/2020 - 14:54
Posts: 45
Location: North Texas
kokosnh wrote:

if we go that far, can we just have a repeat button on the handle? and hole to mount handle on the side? But that would drive the cost higher, so it probably would be sold separately.

I would love for there to be like a pass-through button on the handle. Including the handle and this design would probably cost too much, but selling it separately would be cool. It could just be a plunger that sits over the existing switch so when you press the plunger it presses the switch.

Streamtronics
Streamtronics's picture
Offline
Last seen: 17 hours 32 min ago
Joined: 01/02/2019 - 19:14
Posts: 94
Location: Germany

Wurkkos Terry wrote:
I know there is a tint ramp in the Anduril II, thinking it should be okay to change that part into Beam distance ramp. How do you guys think about it? Is there someone I can contact to do so? Your help will be very appreciated.

Anduril tint ramping should work, but it should be modified so that in the middle it actually powers both channels at 100%, which should be possible by configuring TINT_RAMPING_CORRECTION properly. Or at least it should reach nearly 100% on both channels. In my opinion it also should stop at the "middle" (where both channels are fully on) and do a short "blip", then continue ramping the other channel down. I see a potential issue with the tint ramping feature as it ramps linearly between the two channels, which is what you want for tint, but maybe not for flood/throw. Can't think of an easy way to make it more logarithmic either for now. Also with tint ramping it doesn't allow for multiple power channels per "tint" channel, so it's not all that easy. Tint ramping also only works with 8 bit resolution I believe, which makes the single channel issue even worse (though I did modify the code before to run tint ramping with 16 bit for my custom LT1 firmware wich fakes higher resolution). Question is, should the driver design follow the firmware that's availabe, or should firmware be written/modified to follow a chosen driver design... 

Forsythe P. Jones
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 1 day ago
Joined: 08/15/2021 - 00:40
Posts: 413
Location: California

I think for a light as different as this, it’s reasonable to expect to customize Anduril for it. I do believe the newer AVR processors (AVR-1) have higher resolution PWM than the old ones did, so that might help with the tint ramping. There was also an interesting mod that tterev3 did, using leds of differing color temperatures independently controlled, to be able to adjust the overall mix coming out of a light. Tterev3 did amazing miniaturization to make that happen, but in a light this size it would be a lot easier.

It seems to me, barring complete insanity, people aren’t really going to care what this light costs. So there’s no reason to leave out anything that makes the light better, just to save a few cents or dollars here or there. Build it and they will come. I’d even consider a heat pipe cooling system like on graphics cards, since people are so interested in long runtime on turbo. For this big a light, a carrying handle does seem like a good idea, and it could have a radiator and fan connected to the heat pipe.

That said, I myself have never wanted super bright bursts for more than a few seconds at a time. But I’m not really the market for monster lights like this.

Wurkkos Terry
Wurkkos Terry's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2021 - 04:25
Posts: 104

zoulas wrote:
No comments until run time and ramp down graph is posted.

Lights that run on turbo for 10 seconds and step down to 200 lumens are deceptive and misleading.

Agree.

Wurkkos for all workers

www.wurkkos.com(link is external)

 

Facebook: Wurkkos Terry

Email: wurkkos_marketing@163.com

Contact me if you want to review, buy with coupon, design with us.

Wurkkos Terry
Wurkkos Terry's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2021 - 04:25
Posts: 104

mortuus wrote:
For that many emitters then deeper fins needed for that kind of lumens otherwise very short runtime turbo.

I think better not use too high lumens and instead lower but longer runtimes on turbo is way better then super high and then a drastic drop to like 2-3000 lumens…

Agree too.

Wurkkos for all workers

www.wurkkos.com(link is external)

 

Facebook: Wurkkos Terry

Email: wurkkos_marketing@163.com

Contact me if you want to review, buy with coupon, design with us.

Wurkkos Terry
Wurkkos Terry's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2021 - 04:25
Posts: 104

dthrckt wrote:
Good start. I agree w/ above, more surface area of cooling fins.

I really like the idea of ramping the throw, sort of like a zoomie.

At the risk of my comments being totally disregarded….that’s what I’d prefer. Focusable TIR with SFT40s. I imagine that’s costly to design and manufacture, but if the emitters were well focused when zoomed in I bet it’d sell like hotcakes.

!{width:60%}https://www.fenix-store.com/product_images/uploaded_images/fd65-e-01.jpg!

Thanks for the idea, but will not consider at the moment.

Wurkkos for all workers

www.wurkkos.com(link is external)

 

Facebook: Wurkkos Terry

Email: wurkkos_marketing@163.com

Contact me if you want to review, buy with coupon, design with us.

will34
will34's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 28 min ago
Joined: 12/18/2012 - 00:12
Posts: 4091

I love wurkkos lights and really want this one to happen, so here’s my 0.02c

There are tons of 10k+ lumens soda can lights out there, what you need here is a larger head with deeper fins for high sustained output. I would like to see ~2,500lm and at least 150kcd sustained. I have the M43 and Olight X7R and they’re useless for outdoors because after stepping down there is zero useful range. My L6 in the other hand, works amazing outdoors.

The area right below the surrounding flood reflectors, use them to accommodate deeper fins.

I would use an middle optic instead of a reflector to maximize throw like the one found in acebeam L18/L19. There’s no need for spill when you have the floody emitters.

If can’t be individually controlled, output should ramp/step like this:
SFT40 throw: 1%….50%….100%……100%
SST20 flood: 1%….25%….50%……..100%

Why? Because it makes zero sense to keep sending power to the flood emitters instead of the main SFT40 above ~5,000lm, where your eyes will automatically adjust to the surroundings rendering the SFT40 throw useless. 5,000lm flood because that’s what I personally feel to be sufficient for ANY close-mid range outdoor task.

If possible, add another tripod mount above/below the side switch, this way you could use a handle and operate the light at the same time. Doesn’t have to screw in 1/2” deep, 1/4”-20 thread is quite strong.

Tint ramping has its niche and it’s fun to play with in an compact edc light or lantern, but I don’t think it’s relevant here.

Wurkkos Terry
Wurkkos Terry's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2021 - 04:25
Posts: 104

ch1ir wrote:
I’m in for andruil but I believe you cannot run both at the same time. Niwalker has a good ui for their mmx18 model maybe that could be looked into

Any lumen estimations yet?

Not sure now, but we will see if our engineer can make it run both at the same time.

Wurkkos for all workers

www.wurkkos.com(link is external)

 

Facebook: Wurkkos Terry

Email: wurkkos_marketing@163.com

Contact me if you want to review, buy with coupon, design with us.

Wurkkos Terry
Wurkkos Terry's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2021 - 04:25
Posts: 104
gchart wrote:
Looks interesting. I don’t see any reason why Anduril 2’s tint ramping functionality (like in the LT1) wouldn’t work. You can’t use the LT1 hex file though, if for no other reason than it having temperature regulation disabled. I would think we’d also want to disable to automatic tint ramping feature; not that it would hurt anything it just doesn’t make sense to me for flood/throw ramping.

Thanks gchart for your comment. Do you mean just cancel the tint ramping part(in TS32 flood/throw ramping)? Is this just you or most BLF members? I am curious.

Wurkkos for all workers

www.wurkkos.com(link is external)

 

Facebook: Wurkkos Terry

Email: wurkkos_marketing@163.com

Contact me if you want to review, buy with coupon, design with us.

Wurkkos Terry
Wurkkos Terry's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2021 - 04:25
Posts: 104
PyriteParachute wrote:
Please be sure to include a flat top adapter like convoy 4×18a.

Can you include a photo of there here? Thanks.

Wurkkos for all workers

www.wurkkos.com(link is external)

 

Facebook: Wurkkos Terry

Email: wurkkos_marketing@163.com

Contact me if you want to review, buy with coupon, design with us.

Wurkkos Terry
Wurkkos Terry's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2021 - 04:25
Posts: 104
ArtieT59 wrote:

I just read this on Reddit, and this is my post for thoughts. 



This is exciting! I love the design! Here are my thoughts:


- great layout using sst20 & sft40. Please offer sst20 in Hi Cri, 2700k option too!



  • my vote is 3 × 21700


- Consider – two mcpcbs. (1) mcpcb for the single center emitter and a Second mcpcb for the 12 outside emitters (gives buyers options for modding the inside emitter to different footprint 3V LEDS – osram, sbt90, etc.)


- Anduril 2 or Narsil UI only (narsil is a great UI for high power lights that do not “require” all of the extras that edc lights have like auxiliary LED controls, and narsil still have battery check which is VITAL)


- Needs a 1/4 × 20 threaded hole


- please include HANDLE in box


- please consider RETAINING RING for driver not glued in.


- back lit button


- consider COLORS- even if just DARK GRAY or SAND / TAN


very excited to see this light come to fruition, if it’s a beast, I’ll defintely buy more than one! Modding capabilities would be AWESOME.

This light will use two mcpcbs for sure.
There is a tripot socket in the neck next to the switch, not sure if that is the mentioned 1/4 ×20 treaded hole.
What is the back lit button you mean?
Handle is addable, looking to design one to sell seperately as accessory, so members here can choose to have or not to have according to their demand.

Thanks for your suggestions at the end.

Wurkkos for all workers

www.wurkkos.com(link is external)

 

Facebook: Wurkkos Terry

Email: wurkkos_marketing@163.com

Contact me if you want to review, buy with coupon, design with us.

Wurkkos Terry
Wurkkos Terry's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2021 - 04:25
Posts: 104
ArtieT59 wrote:

gchart wrote:
ch1ir wrote:
Agreed on high cri warmer tints, I would prefer Xhp35 in the center. It is still superior to the sft in my opinion. Thank you Lee Terry please keep us informed
Ehh, I don’t have any problems with the XHP35 but that’s a 12-volt only LED which would mean a boost driver. Not that Wurkkos couldn’t do that, but it would complicate things for sure. For me, I don’t see any problems in using the SFT40 (or an Osram).

 


agreed, for as much as I like the xhp35 HI 4000k (one of my favorite emitters), the sft40 is equally as impressive. And I would rather have the added numerous options of 3 volt emitters for that center led. Xhp35 and gt fc40 are the only 12v emitters I can think of that are worth using.  

What is GT FC40? Very curious.

Wurkkos for all workers

www.wurkkos.com(link is external)

 

Facebook: Wurkkos Terry

Email: wurkkos_marketing@163.com

Contact me if you want to review, buy with coupon, design with us.

Pages