The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

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thefreeman
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MoreLumens wrote:
I need some high capacity 18650 batteries for powerbank use and for some low drain lights under 10A. Are Panasonic NCR18650B’s still number one choice?

It hasn’t been for some time, it’s an older cell with 4.875A CDR.

GA, 35E (8A) and MJ1 are better choices, Samsung put out a new revision recently (35E3), probably with increased cycle life like 40T3.

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thefreeman wrote:
MoreLumens wrote:
I need some high capacity 18650 batteries for powerbank use and for some low drain lights under 10A. Are Panasonic NCR18650B’s still number one choice?

It hasn’t been for some time, it’s an older cell with 4.875A CDR.

GA, 35E (8A) and MJ1 are better choices, Samsung put out a new revision recently (35E3), probably with increased cycle life like 40T3.

Thanks. Probably getting MJ1’s then.

story
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https://imgur.com/a/JMtDoXs

Hey look at these pics.

Where’s the attiny85 in the D4V2 or D4SV2?

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story wrote:
https://imgur.com/a/JMtDoXs

Hey look at these pics.

Where’s the attiny85 in the D4V2 or D4SV2?


It uses the newer 1634. It has more input/outputs to control aux leds.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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story
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Does anyone have a D4SV2 dissemble write up? I just need to access the driver and flash the 1634.
Based on my research, I need a soldering that goes up to 400c?

JasonWW
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story wrote:
Does anyone have a D4SV2 dissemble write up? I just need to access the driver and flash the 1634.
Based on my research, I need a soldering that goes up to 400c?

You don’t have to disassemble or do any soldering. The driver can stay in place. You use the pins near the spring.
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/68263

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

story
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JasonWW wrote:
story wrote:
Does anyone have a D4SV2 dissemble write up? I just need to access the driver and flash the 1634. Based on my research, I need a soldering that goes up to 400c?
You don’t have to disassemble or do any soldering. The driver can stay in place. You use the pins near the spring. https://budgetlightforum.com/node/68263

I destroyed those pads lol.
Anyway, it was easier to dissemble than expected. I desoldered the aux wires, cut the thick wire and use a thing to violently push out the driver.

I am in contact with Hank. Maybe I will get another flashlight with the driver. Let’s see if the tinting ramping are coming out soon.

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I been testing my batteries capacity with Vapcell S4 plus. It also shows resistance which ain’t accurate, but can give some hint about your batteries age and condition?
I have some old maybe 6-8 years old, maybe even older NCR18650B’s which shows resistance everything from 60-103 mOhms. Haven’t capacity yet, but it’s probably ok.

So the question is about that resistance value. It’s not accurate because one other cell showed 35 mOhm few days ago and now 42 mOhm, but that value probably changes depending on how full is it or is it discharging etc?
I’m writing every cells values onto wrapper just to know which cells to combine if needed and to find most similar cells. So because resistance value change, it would be wise to mark it like <50, <75, <100 etc.?

Yes? Blushing

thefreeman
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DCIR changes with state of charge yes, it is significantly higher when SOC is low, slightly higher when SOC is high ( See the last graph )
It’s also higher when cold, lower when hot.

In his review HKJ found that the DCIR function is reasonably consistant but that it significantly underestimates it.

For reference Docware measured the DCIR of several cells according to IEC61960 standard:

But even if the S4 underestimates it you can still use it to track ageing.

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@ MoreLumens:

You have the right idea in noting the ballpark DCIR onto the label (I use a fine-tipped marker and cover with Scotch Tape).

However, for the 3 or 4 cell lights, I have dedicated batteries. This to always be around the same IR. Then the deep-drawn lights, I also have dedicated cells for these.

Keep in mind, we’re measuring milliOhms. Any slight difference in contact points in the charger, any oily residue will affect the reading. I’ve taken to cleaning these contacts and cells with Iso alcohol for a proper test.

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When I “check” resistance, I bap the button like a dozen times, and will get a dozen different readings, albeit in roughly the same range. Ain’t like it’s gonna read 42… 42… 42… 42… etc.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

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Why do many lighted E-switches turn off when the light is powered on? I wish they stayed on.

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Ledhead wrote:
Why do many lighted E-switches turn off when the light is powered on? I wish they stayed on.

They are just programmed that way. Just personal choice of the person writing the code.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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Hank is offering those 219BT-V1 emitters but hasn’t posted an estimated max output for them. What max lumen level would you get from those in a D4V2? What is their heat like compared to an E21A or an XP-L Hi?

------------------

My Collection

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MoreLumens wrote:
I been testing my batteries capacity with Vapcell S4 plus. It also shows resistance which ain’t accurate, but can give some hint about your batteries age and condition?
I have some old maybe 6-8 years old, maybe even older NCR18650B’s which shows resistance everything from 60-103 mOhms. Haven’t capacity yet, but it’s probably ok.

So the question is about that resistance value. It’s not accurate because one other cell showed 35 mOhm few days ago and now 42 mOhm, but that value probably changes depending on how full is it or is it discharging etc?
I’m writing every cells values onto wrapper just to know which cells to combine if needed and to find most similar cells. So because resistance value change, it would be wise to mark it like <50, <75, <100 etc.?

Yes? Blushing

In addition to what thefreeman shared, you might like to read HKJ’s old article on resistance testing. Basically it’s hard to do it accurately and most meters won’t be good enough, just like most chargers are not accurate in their readings. I like having the feature on a charger anyway because I can get an idea and mentally keep an average, sort of, over time. I used to note it on new cells but stopped just because the readings on chargers are so variable. If the resistance when first measured on the charger begins to get noticeably and consistently-ish higher, then you know that cell is aging and may not be capable of giving the current it used to, so maybe time to relegate it to lower powered lights at that point.

I find it a little more useful on NiMH cells.

http://lygte-info.dk/info/Internal%20impedance%20UK.html

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I have an Emisar D18 with half xpl hi 4000K and half xpl hi 2750K that I bought last year. I’ve tried getting the ceiling bounce app installed on my old phone, but can’t figure it out. Anyone have a rough guess what the lumen and candela output would be? I’m using Samsung 30q button tops for it if that matters.

Also, if anyone has advice on how to install the ceiling bounce app, that would be much appreciated as well! I have windows and linux (fedora) on my computer so whatever is easier. Never sideloaded(?) an app so I’m lost.

Yeah I got lights. 

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CRC wrote:
In regards to turbo modes generating heat.

For a long time, I was under the impression that heat was bad because it was going to harm the light in some way.

Like, frying the LED or electronics, or hurt the battery somehow..?

But the more I learn about (any subject related to) flashlights, the issue of heat is seeming to be more of an annoyance than anything to be overly concerened about.

Like, people just dont like holding a hot light?

I have never had a light get so hot that it was uncomfortable to hold.

But thats party because I have played it safe and dont allow it to get very hot, for fear of destroying my flashlight.

Ive always considered turbo mode to be, “break the flashlight mode.”

Have I been playing it too safe?

If my hand can handle the heat, can I assume the light and its components should be just fine?

Too safe….probably yeah maybe, and that’s fine. A lot of this anti-heat stuff comes from the general lighting industry, notsomuch the flashlight folks (obviously…I mean it was light geeks that pushed envelopes and made cool things despite some heat, and eventually the world followed…most of the world).

Many lights will limit or prevent hot-hot running temperatures either through limiting the current altogether or by using a timer or temperature reading on the driver which then bumps it down to cool off. Choose a light or build using a driver that has no limits and yes, you can actually blister your skin and in some cases damage components, depending. Most people will turn the light down or off when it gets pretty hot, and turn it off in a panic if it feels super hot, but generally the emitters and electronics can handle temperatures far above the point where you skin can actually get burned. Ultraviolet emitters and some others are exceptions…heat wimps. Super cheap lights with plastic reflectors or other unworthy parts may be damaged if they are modded to run high power fun.

I had a chuckle yesterday at work. Coworker isn’t a light geek but he loves lights and got into them many years ago when lithium cells were less easy to come by. He’s been using Lumintop Tools for awhile but usually just quick utility bursts of light. He left one running on high on his desk for awhile and was shocked when he picked it up again – thought his hand was going to melt off. lol. I picked it up and was like, yeah, it’s warm, almost hot, but not really hot yet. Uncomfortable to hold, but doable without skin turning red. So it’s relative and it takes some exposure to realize what’s “hot” and what’s actually hot, and where those limits are. But other than skin, the light and components are usually plenty robust.

Mainstream light makers will prevent this heat in favor of longer run times and/or avoiding complaints in the mass market customers (that’s a win-win for most general public light users, notsomuch for enthusiasts).

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Ok, thanks everyone for good answers in internal resistance question.

More questions. So I’m going to solder Convoy S2+‘s pill to spacer, but should I add some thermal compound between those also? I think answer is simple yes, but I won’t take it apart after that so is there a risk that thermal compound between those gets old at some point and works more as insulator then? I use Arctic MX-4.
Probably both solutions would work and I wouldn’t even notice difference, but won’t hurt to ask.

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MoreLumens wrote:
Ok, thanks everyone for good answers in internal resistance question.

More questions. So I’m going to solder Convoy S2+‘s pill to spacer, but should I add some thermal compound between those also? I think answer is simple yes, but I won’t take it apart after that so is there a risk that thermal compound between those gets old at some point and works more as insulator then? I use Arctic MX-4.
Probably both solutions would work and I wouldn’t even notice difference, but won’t hurt to ask.

I would do one or the other but not both. I have not tried this myself so it’s just educated guessing, but my concern would be that soldering would burn the paste, perhaps leaving a carbon that would not conduct heat at all. The solder by itself will conduct just fine, albeit less than the base metals do. Take the time to inspect the flat surfaces of each and remove any nubs or burrs, perhaps try to flatten the pill platform if it’s concave/convex as some of them are (a larger punch or similar can be used to gently persuade it flat again if necessary)…just to give them the best fit so less solder is needed in there. Proper interface is more valuable than the filler used to correct that, when possible. Same is true for mcpcb’s. With a decent interface and minimal clamp pressure from the reflector/bezel, paste by itself is just fine.

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For paste itself says it can take 180c peak temps, but no idea what happens after that. Without paste I would just put both of those on heatplate and add solder + extra heat if needed from soldering iron, but with thermal paste I thought of doing quick soldering with reflow soldering paste so it wouldn’t get all that hot, maybe.

Well gotta check surfaces and make sure they are flat enough. Maybe I put some soldering paste between pill and spacer and let that form nice bond between two surfaces and after that soldering it from sides and adding some solder in those two holes too.

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That won’t cause any cell damage. In fact, that’s pretty conservative use. Go forth and turbo

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Rayoui wrote:
Go forth and turbo

lol. Words to live by!

Yeah, no worries for the emitter or the cell using it like that. We humans are soft, pink, and crunchy…it’s amazing that we can survive at all. Flashlights have exoskeletons and hearts of magma – they’re tougher than we are when it comes to heat and exertion.

Hard to imagine not having nice bright lights these days. Actually it’s hard to even imagine years ago when we got by with 20 lumens or less! We had a contractor in the office the other day and he pulled out one of those cheap angry-blue zoomies that hardly put out any useful light for what he was needing. I may have actually cringed. Didn’t have any decent lights around or I would have tried to convert him.

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How do you enable the Jump Start for the D4V2 with 219B?

I have two D4V2 both are Anduril 2, 2021-08-13
One has the jump start enabled and one doesn’t.
The moon light comes on normally vs another second delay.

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In terms of DIY/Moding, I have a single 16340 host that I plan on running at 1.5-2A with an LMR. What are the most efficient / high output LED options for running with a fixed current 7135 or buck board? I haven’t been keeping up with the latest series of emitters available, and the amount manufacturers and options seems overwhelming these days.

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In 3535 size, probably the LH351D, in 5050 I’d say XHP50.2 version 3V (or .3 but not available yet), then SST-40/SFT40.

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I need some 20350 battery. On Ali Express, I have found this “soft-wrapped” 20350 battery.

Can this be used in a flashlight?

It seems this size of battery is mostly for vaping; and so it is not available in countries where vaping is prohibited.

Can anyone guide me to the source of normal 20350 rechargeable battery?

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TermsakC wrote:

I need some 20350 battery. On Ali Express, I have found this “soft-wrapped” 20350 battery.

Can this be used in a flashlight?

It seems this size of battery is mostly for vaping; and so it is not available in countries where vaping is prohibited.

Can anyone guide me to the source of normal 20350 rechargeable battery?


It seems you might have better luck finding a good 18350 battery. There is not a big difference in capacity, if at all. You can make a simple spacer just in case it might rattle.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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Thanks Robin Debbie and Jason WW for your kind and quick responses.

I have found a convenient solution: I just try putting in a 18350 cell on my new Wurkkos TS21, instead of a 20350. And it works. No need to find the uncommon 20350 cell anymore. Can just use the common 18350 cell.

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I’d like to know also. I had always presumed Cainiao was the cheapest logistics transporter. Often they lose tracking somewhere over the Pacific. But on some occasions, they pulled through at record speed. And to add to the confusion, they are wholly owned and operated by AliExpress; much like AliExpress Shipping. Some kind of double standard?

Mind you I’m in Canada and the ePackets are piggybacked with the commercial (passenger) flights and these haven’t come back pre-pandemic. Often they linger about in some hub waiting for an available flight. I don’t think premium changes anything at that bottleneck. However, the premium does have tracking throughout and doesn’t get bounced around the various checkpoints/holding stations.

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@ CRC:

My CULPM1.TG has some characteristic flowering really close-up (say 2 inches). I always thought this normal with these Osrams being a small die within a larger substrate. My CSLPM1.TG is out of focus and doesn’t show any artifacts.

As for that green Osram, you could loosen the retaining screws on the MCPCB and try re-centering the LED.

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