My lux values seem to come in a bit lower than everyone elses by a few percent it seems. I remember no matter what I did, I couldn’t hit your SFT40 numbers.
384kcd is 1,239m >> 1,345m would be 452kcd
Lumens wise, the boost HX from Simon maxed out at 1,560 in my light box.
That’s the problem when very few are using a calibrated lux meter, who knows who’s is correct. Mine reads 5% higher than Marco’s over at 1Lumen, but that still puts it higher than your measurement.
Also in my calibrated pvc tube I can’t get higher than 1350 or so at 30 sec, same as Tom E. At start it’s a little over 1450, guess no two LEDs are going to be the same though. My L21A/B stock tests 1200-1350
Ok, I'm there with Jared. Popped it in a FT03 - yes, the beam and tint looks pretty darn good. Did some tests at different amps/cells on the stock driver, but I got spring bypasses installed. at 8.6 amps, throw dropped to 460 kcd, but at ~8 amps on a Molicel P42A I got 493 kcd, 1485 lumens at start.
Funny, was look' at the plastic piece over the LED and looked like there were holes on the side so could easily pop it off - interesting. Will post pics.
I discovered these holes when I was cleaning after the reflow with IPA. I had to blow out the alcohol that got under the lens.
There is absolutely nothing to be gained above 8.0A, this I’m confident about. Low 7s is probably a good spot to be.
Yes, I got slightly higher at 7.1 amps on a LK cell at 4.15V.
Mounted on a FT03 SST-40 MCPCB:
Installed:
There's life!
Closer looks:
Thanks for the awesome macro shots Tom! 
Pop that lens off already!! 
One more live update. 415kcd 30T@4.20V and bezel loosened until my eyeball said ‘perfect’. I think this is maxed out here.
I’ve got two emitters left. Where to put them? TN31 that is currently doing 526kcd with an SFT40 running 9ish amps and did 565kcd with a PM1 running 7.0A. These numbers sound too high to be true, but 700kcd is my estimate in the Thrunite at 7A.
Then there’s the C8+ or M2 with ramping driver… B158B… Jacob A60…
Just bought 10 more before these unicorns disappear 
Definitely 7.1 amps does better than 8 amps, but ever so slightly. yea, gotta get the lens off.
lumens is maukka cal factor and throw is taken indoors at 5 meters on a Extech LT45:
7.1 amps: 497 kcd, 1515 lumens at start
8 amps: 493 kcd, 1485 lumens at start
These #'s are decent enough, in the realm of the Boost HX but a lot cheaper. Really wanna see it in a aspheric though - should see a nice circular spot -- wayyyy overdue.
Awesome work. I bet you see 510 or so with the lens off, just a guess though. Interesting that 7.1 is better than 8. I’ll test another emitter with some finer current steps near the peak. I was super sloppy with my first pass. It was just to make sure this version was in the same ballpark as djozz’s.
I'm giving up for the evening - made myself a nice margarita. Just got an email from Neal and i replied for him to check out our results here. Neal is way, way too good to me... He's including a couple of SFN55.2's in my order of the MT70 Mini SFN55.2
I should’ve stopped. I just popped the bond wires on my second sample while running another output test and shorting the leads. 
The power supply was too slow in folding back and poof. Ahh well, par for the course I guess.
This didn’t happen before I got some good data though. I’ll plot some stuff later but here’s the raw numbers
Amps - Lux*10
7.0 - 305
7.25 - 307
7.5 - 308
7.75 - 309
8 - 308
So 7.1 sounds like a darn good place to be.
I’m putting my last one in a C8+ for tonight since that’s easiest. Maybe I’ll swap stuff around and get numbers from the B158B, TN31, and M2 next week.
It does not sound like the version tested in the OP performs much different from the one with the clear window, right?
According to the seller’s page, I would have received the 5900-6300 version by accident. I measured the CCT at 5300K which is in between the two versions so it could be the case. That would explain JaredM’s better tint.
I think the seller mixed things up, cause I brought the two versions, the natural white 5000K and the cool white 5900-6500k, and the cool white showed a terrible green tint, but the 5000K showed a 6500K perfectly white light, with little green at lower current, and the green completely vanished at high current, so, based on this, i think that the seller got confused when making the product page on AliExpress.
That’s the test i made of the ‘cool white’
That’s the test i made of the ‘natural white’
User u/minkus1000 also noticed it. His post about this LED.
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/qi4ssw/quick_look_at_the_new_yinding_domeless_5050_led/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
Thanks for the links and comparisons, this led is a bit of an adventure.
Yea, the LED for the adventurous! So djozz - you are not alone in buying a 5000K and getting the white 5000K version, as opposed to the gold version.
I'm thinking the tint is showing much better on the gold one.
Updates -->
lumens is maukka cal factor and throw is taken indoors at 5 meters on a Extech LT45:
7.1 amps (LK 26650 at 4.15V): 497 kcd, 1515 lumens at start
∴ 7.5 amps (Vapcell 5900 @4.20V): 511 kcd, 1524 lumens at start
∴ 7.8 amps (Black LK 5000 @4.20V): 511 kcd, 1503 lumens at start
8 amps (P42A @4.14V): 493 kcd, 1485 lumens at start
Throw seems high and/or lumens low this morning, not much, under the margins of error (~5%)
∴ = newly added
Hmm. I better leave a sellers note for the ten I just ordered. I’ll be jo’d if the green/silicone version shows up this time.
It does seem this cool white, gold/glass version puts out slightly less light and peaks about 0.5A sooner than the green/silicone version.
Btw, my samples measure exactly 5.0mm. Somewhere I read theirs were undersized.
Oh! And by the way. The emitter I killed didn’t die in vain. The height of the emission surface is 0.68 ± 0.02mm. The phosphor is actually pretty mechanically robust along with the bond wires which are surprisingly thick. Unless you are dumber than me and find a way to hit the thing with 30A, they aren’t going anywhere.
I think 1500 lumens is quite nice for the glass version. That makes it nearly identical to a W2 in output and intensity.
However, the beam should be much nicer in comparison to the rectangular W2.
Continuing on this Astrolux FT03 (69.5 mm head diam) --
Ok, following Jared's lead, this de-lens procedure didn't go clean but was successful. I can verify the lens is glass and can crack:
I was able to remove the pieces and keep the die and wires untouched. These are the tools I used in the surgery:
The chards - yes, AR coated:
Didn't want to take chances here so just used compressed air to blow it clean using Gust Easy Duster, this stuff works great in reflectors too! I believe the marks are fins scratches, I think they were there originally:
Glamour shots of the LED in action, moon level:
So what were the results of de-lensing? Well, better than any of my SBT90.2 de-lensing jobs. Though it's only one sample, I see an 11.7% bump in throw, and 8.3% bump in lumens:
On same Black LK 5000 cell as before, now at 4.17V: 571 kcd, 1651 lumens at start
Repeating the test after fully charging the cell to 4.20V: 571 kcd, 1627 lumens at start
That's a definite decent bump.
Little more work on focus centering, tightening up the bezel: 581 kcd (1524 meters)
Lumens run: 1621 @start, 1570 at 10s, 1545 at 30s, 1521 at 1 min, 1485 at 2 mins
It was pretty warm at 2 mins but still cool enough to hold (no fan, in foam for the PVC lightbox)
Oh yea, can confirm the hot spot corona area looks cleaner after the de-lensing. Before there were reflections from the gold trimming.
Nice work Tom. Thanks for the before after de-lens numbers. I didn’t conduct a controlled experiment.
I took a used x-acto blade and bent/curled the tip with the aid of a propane torch and used it as a crow bar under the glass and it split down the middle. The two hapves then removed easily. Some silicone was left behind which came off without a fuss either. The gold plating is easily scratched though so if you’re going for picture perfect a wettened wood toothpick has always been my preferred tool