The safest way to test would be with a bench power supply. Alternatively, you can drain the batteries separately in another light down to LVP level (~2.7V or so). Then try them in the Night watch for a couple minutes on the lowest mode. It shouldnāt drain them too far but it should make LVP kick in if it does indeed have LVP.
Okā¦ I finally pulled trigged and ordered one. Lets see how this LVP goesā¦ and maybe see how some Vapcell T42 do in it. I might even try to get my hands on Vapcell T40s to see if those can push the emitters harder, @ 2000mah theyāll die pretty quick Iām guessing.
I have a bench top power supply at work I can test it with. Didnt even think about that. When it comes in Iāll bring it to work and check it out. Freeme says below 5.6v should auto shutoff so it should be pretty quick to verify. Just need to get my hands on the light first
Actually going to be a bit longer for me to test this out. I got my tracking information mixed up with my convoy order. My ns59v1 is still tracking as in China. But I will test as soon as I get it if no one else has yet.
Will include all that in my full review. For now based on the one runtime test Iāve done, Iām getting just under 2000lm sustained for about an hour and a half on P42Aās.
The thing with P42A from observations with other high current lights, is the 30/40T can ha dle higher initial current loads than the P42A can. Itās as much as 15% higher vs a 30T, which is a lot.
Thatās a pretty robust switch good to see a name brand in there too. Itās also meant for AC 125V and 1.5A so that gives you an idea of itās rated capacityā¦about 190 watts on AC and probably 60 A on DC.
I leave this answer to more knowledgeable people.
Iām under amateur level for this skill, for me metal is metal, if thatās work
But magnet is advice often give.
Those magnets have high resistance unfortunately and arenāt a viable option. I donāt recommend them for that. A copper spacer is a better option. You can solder it directly to the brass driver contact to take up the space requirement.
Thanks for the ideas, in the pics it looks like the driver has a brass post which should work fine with flat tops, just the connection between the cells is not given. Maybe Iāll bend some copper wire to make a spacer until i have a brass plate or something better.
Itās about 2,000lm sustained. Not very high, but itās not that large of a light and I suspect itās using a low efficiency driver, so 2,000lm sounds about right to me.
I believe itās to ensure the two cells make contact in the middle. Two flat top cells may not make contact in the middle of the tube, unless the tops are a little bit proud like P42Aās.
I was browsing their site recently and every single push button switch has the exact same full range of specs listed. Seems like not long ago they listed everything as AC amps but everything there now says the same 30V/1A/3A, same resistance, same cycles. Maybe thatās accurate if they all use basically the same mechanism. We know they can handle quite a bit more than stated anyway.
In another thread someone suggested that one of Simonās lights had a āmore robustā switch but couldnāt back that up with numbers or anythingā¦doesnāt look like an Omten (not on their website anyway) and I couldnāt find a switch/brand with the same markings. I think some of the cheapest cheap cheapie switches use inferior plastic that will melt or deform at lower temperatures, maybe poorer springs, but so many of these are like the same switch with different contact configurations or footprint sizes. Ones used in our typical China flashlights at any rate.