The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

And to add to those lines

Can’t fathom why manufacturers make modern-day meters with a 2.8 Volt threshold. Can’t use Laddas (NiMH).

Just found a small 13 x 48mm Li-Ion cell buried within a disposable Vape Mod – chucked alongside the sidewalk. Seems to be able to charge. Will be looking into adding a charging board and 3-volt regulator. It would fit in one of those meters, and then bypass the auto-off function (user selectable from the ‘ON’ button sequence).

I have some spare 219b and I am thinking about reflowing in a SP36 BLF.
Zeroair says the FET is about 13A so it should be fine right?

I see ”16.2+” in Zeroair review with sofirn cells (60mΩ) and LH351ds, 219bs having lower Vf will pull more current, and if quality cells (e.g GAs 30mΩ) are used then even more current, I’d say it will be too much for 219bs.

I will just be using Sofirn cells which shouldn’t last 16a for long. As long as 219b can survive that then it should be fine right?

No elbow room.

You would have to change the sense resistor, the light has glued driver – can’t take pics.

Ah, I see what happend. I was reading 1lumen’s review instead of zeroair. Zeroair has the Anduril 2 driver. On 1lumen’s review and it says

“Bottom of ramp (moonlight): 2.5mA
Top of ramp: 4.38A

Turbo:
Sofirn Cell: 10.9A
30Q – 11.9A

The light seems to cap out at the ~12A mark which may be a hardware limitation”

I took a plunge and tried it this morning. I reflowed sw4500k and it’s working. Visually, the SP36 on step 7 is about the same as a D4V2 SW4500k (9a, turbo, floody) from 20 feet away. I will have to wait for night time for wide area test. The first revision SP36 hardware limitation became a feature. Maybe that’s why it’s heating up faster than expected for its mass. Now I just need to find a way to diffuse the beam even more.

Yeah, sometimes it’s “go or bust”. Nichia’s 219b has a reputation for being low Vf. It may deter the life of the LED, but as you seem to grasp that the battery doesn’t always deliver those Amps, may just work out.

Still, if you draw 16 Amps at the tail, you’d be pushing those LEDs at the very max. May not burn out immediately, but will eventually fail.

Now that the dust has settled a little, just how good is the Nichia 519a emitter? Do they match the output of the LH351D emitters while having better R9 and tint?

Is it harmful to ceiling bounce UV light without safety glasses? Do I have to watch out for mirrors in the room? I will be using the Wurkkos WK30 365nm.

The prescription is to not have the light shine directly into the eye(s) or on the skin.
It’s not a laser. Any reflected UV or indirect exposure is relatively safe – not prolonged though.

Is Simon’s 12- and 13-group biscotti-like firmware open source?

If so, where is the source repo?

No. No idea who he uses to make and program all his drivers now but doubtful they’d give up their work freely. You could always message Simon and ask if sharing it is possible.

Referenced by icpart from Nichia 519a thread (post #11) which is actually tested by bob_mcbob on Reddit (link)

Awesome! Thanks for this. The output of these two emitters is not as similar as I had hoped. Looks like the LH351D was a cooler bin which might have exaggerated the difference but overall I guess the LH351D still wins for output.

And the CRI of the chosen LH351D is terrible. That comparison is simply highlighting something that I think just about everybody here already knows: There’s a price to be paid (in lumens) for high CRI. If you don’t care about CRI and tint, then the 519A isn’t very interesting at all.

Oh I didn’t clock that it was a low CRI version of the LH351D. All the LH351D lights I have are high CRI and I didn’t think to check.

The nice R9 comes not without cost.

Thanks, thefreeman.

Can normal UV glue be used to waterproof PCBs or are there specialty products for that?

Mostly the dedicated compounds are some sort of epoxy.
Amazon is full of them.
The thing to look out for is thermal transfer and conductivity.
If it blocks too much heat something could cook. And, naturally, it should not conduct (my grasp of the obvious is overwhelming).
Don’t know the properties of UV glue.
All the Best,
Jeff

Does anyone have experience with the Luminus SST-20-B 445nm Blue?

It’s from Kaidomain.