【Brass in 28th, Sep】Wurkkos TS10 "slender waist" 14500 triple LEDs Light with Anduril 2.0

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Verodin
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Too high, for not too much more money you can get a fully regulated driver and no messing with loctite. Maybe its a good price from an US perspective, but in the EU tax gets added will be a solid pass for me. I love copper, but not at any cost. No way there’s $40 (+tax) worth of copper material in there (ignoring possibly higher machining costs for simplicity).

jon_slider
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fwiw, the Copper FWAA costs $69. On sale at illumn for 25% off with code Labor25, makes it $53. This is a Solid BUY!

but imo the TS10 is a better light than the FWAA because
1. better switch resistance
2. Better throw from the optic
3. the aux lights are very useful

Verodin
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Don’t you guys have to pay tax? Not familiar with US practices.

Here it’s 25%. That’s not trivial and with a $60 pricetag I end up paying $75. To put that in perspective, the current alu version goes for ~25 USD (AE, converted from SEK).

jon_slider
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> Here it’s 25%.

I ordered a Red TS10 a couple of days ago, the price had 5% tax added. I am in USA.

The sales tax where I live is “normally” 10%, when I buy something from a local store. Never 25%…

MoreHiCRILumens
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There was no extra costs when I ordered. No hassle with the customs either.

Firelight2
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Wurkkos wrote:
Geuzzz wrote:
Wurkkos wrote:

Thank you, titanium or copper , i ve been think about it for a long time ,The main problem is that the cost will be much higher. I am not sure how much I can sell. The new factory that processes titanium has MOQ requirements.

$ 60 – 70 easily


yeah, so will people go with this high cost? we get a MOQ requirement 500 pieces from the factory. Facepalm

Yes…. $60 to $70 per unit for titanium or copper is reasonable.

That would put it in a similar price range to the Titanium and Titanium-copper FWAAs on Neals Gadgets website. Those lights are very similar to the TS10 and do sell at that price.

Neals Gadgets did a survey awhile back to see what special materials were most popular. As I recall the combo of Titanium bezel, body tube and, tailcap with copper pill came out on top. Followed closely by all Titanium.

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Verodin wrote:
Don’t you guys have to pay tax? Not familiar with US practices.

Here it’s 25%. That’s not trivial and with a $60 pricetag I end up paying $75. To put that in perspective, the current alu version goes for ~25 USD (AE, converted from SEK).

Trying to not get “political”, but it needs explaining…

Here in NYC, sales tax is nominally around 9%. No customs fees, no additional ransom from the post office, etc.

And before places like GB, BG, AX, etc., started “charging sales tax” (which I still have my doubts they even ever remit), we used to be able to get stuff from those places with free or low-cost shipping, and no tax. And no customs hassles or post-office ransom.

A lotta people like to crow about healthcare elsewhere in the world vs in the USA, but that’s why. You end up paying Every Single Day with exorbitant VATs, customs nightmares, post offices charging their own fees on top, etc. It’s just a tradeoff of when you pay. Plus, here there’s little if any “rationing” of treatments here, because as long as insurance covers it, you’ll get the tests, procedures, etc., that you need.

So that cost is covered by private insurance vs being “free”. The “free” part is paid for by VATs, etc.

Which one’s better or worse than the other, that’s another discussion for somewhere else. I’m just explaining the differences in tax rates, etc.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

Westie
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Verodin wrote:
Too high, for not too much more money you can get a fully regulated driver and no messing with loctite. Maybe its a good price from an US perspective, but in the EU tax gets added will be a solid pass for me. I love copper, but not at any cost. No way there’s $40 (+tax) worth of copper material in there (ignoring possibly higher machining costs for simplicity).

Tax is included on AliExpress and the price is not proportionally higher.
Under EU regulations there shouldn’t be any additional fees. If the product it over €150 you don’t pay tax online but it will be taxed upon arrival.

Verodin
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Maybe I miscommunicated something. Let me re-frase it. The prices announced (by Wurkkos) are always in USD and without tax. So if I see prices of 60+ USD being thrown around (not by Wurkkos, but assuming this is based on the same starting point), that means I will pay a set price of roughly 75+ USD buying a copper version from the AE store (irrelevant how this is build up, import costs don’t come into play). That is 3 times the cost of the aluminum one. Imho that is simply too high for what it is.

The question was whether or not they can sell 500 pieces at a significantly higher cost. All I’m saying it’s not as straight forward as it might seem. Again I’d love to have a copper version, but if I don’t feel it’s good value for money, I’ll pass. And let’s not forget we’re talking (mostly) ascetics here, not the actual driver, emitters and optic.

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I got my TS10 (black with orange). I really like it. Button is nice, nice beam, good tint and CRI.
It is real bright, especially for its size!
It IS a bit slippery. Both getting it out of a pocket and holding it. Something with a bit more grip would be great.
One thing, and I guess it is to be expected, it gets hot real fast. Using an H10 cell on turbo, it get uncomfortable to hold in well under 30 seconds.
Even at 110/150, it get toasty. I suppose the light is designed to take it, but I am a bit concerned about battery health.
Fortunately, having to use the light at these levels will be a rarity.
For the price, I love it and ordered another. But I think one needs to be careful of the heat on this little thing.

BTW, I turned the AUX lights off in the UI. I don’t see them lighting up when the main lights are on. I haven’t tried other settings to see if that changes yet.

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Verodin wrote:
Maybe I miscommunicated something. Let me re-frase it. The prices announced (by Wurkkos) are always in USD and without tax. So if I see prices of 60+ USD being thrown around (not by Wurkkos, but assuming this is based on the same starting point), that means I will pay a set price of roughly 75+ USD buying a copper version from the AE store (irrelevant how this is build up, import costs don’t come into play). That is 3 times the cost of the aluminum one. Imho that is simply too high for what it is.

I’m not so sure about that.

The Lumintop FWAA sells for $72 for the titanium version and is very comparable to the TS10. Wurkkos could probably get away with selling a titanium TS10 for a similar price.

That said, the FWAA was first to the market. That could justify them charging a higher price than they could have had there been competition on the market. It would be really nice if Wurrkos could sell the TS10 for $55 or $60 in Titanium.

ALSO NOTE: The current price of the Wurkkos TS10 is around $20, but at least on the Aliexpress site that is a discounted price. The list price is actually listed at $28.

Verodin
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Well, there’s a reason I don’t have any titanium lights Wink Plus I stay away from Lumintop for completely unrelated reasons, but that’s way off topic.

Deluminator
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Brass would be awesome wurkkos? You could always do a quick vote/pole?

Looking to buy used Reylight Pineapple & Acebeam M10? PM ME

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Wurkkos wrote:
Funtastic wrote:
I’m just disappointed a little that the ano isn’t a matte finish like Convoy. A small model like this needs a bit of grip and it’s still too slippery

ok, i have feedback to the factory to more matte

It is a tad slippery but it will depend on a person’s hands. Maybe just a tiny bit of surface texture would be enough. Not to suggest copying Hank’s pattern on some of his battery tubes, but his approach is unique, attractive, comfortable, and effective for grip. Just micro grooves around the tube. I would imagine that it can be done very quickly and easily on a cnc machine, and probably with fewer rejects/mistakes than with diamond knurling. Here are a couple of pics I copied from his website and cropped…hopefully the detail shows up ok for you. It’s classy and from a distance it doesn’t even look like a texture or knurling. Perhaps Wurkkos could do something similar. The anodizing on the light looks very nice, btw.

Also…take note of the clip design! THIS is what many people would love. Captive ring, good shape and design, strong thicker metal. Smile

Wurkkos
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Kubrick89 wrote:
I received a DOA TS10 3 days ago, aux LEDs work but not the main emitters. I promptly wrote to support email address but got no answer, any idea how to have it replaced?

is the aux leds could be adjusted?
Wurkkos
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Deluminator wrote:
Brass would be awesome wurkkos? You could always do a quick vote/pole?

yeah, i will like to try brass or copper first, i wonder if i need a interested list? Big Smile

Wurkkos
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Wurkkos wrote:
Deluminator wrote:
Brass would be awesome wurkkos? You could always do a quick vote/pole?

yeah, i will like to try brass or copper first, i wonder if i need a interested list? Big Smile

i will talk to factory always to do a lowest cost, The budget I’m looking for is less than $40 for the copper /brass version and $45-$50 for the titanium version

Verodin
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Wurkkos wrote:
i will talk to factory always to do a lowest cost, The budget I’m looking for is less than $40 for the copper /brass version and $45-$50 for the titanium version

Now that’s more like it! If that budget holds, you’ve just sold the first ones Thumbs Up
Geuzzz
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Wurkkos wrote:
Wurkkos wrote:
Deluminator wrote:
Brass would be awesome wurkkos? You could always do a quick vote/pole?

yeah, i will like to try brass or copper first, i wonder if i need a interested list? Big Smile

i will talk to factory always to do a lowest cost, The budget I’m looking for is less than $40 for the copper /brass version and $45-$50 for the titanium version

Great prices! In that case I would go Ti.

Maybe a poll can help you.

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So I need to stop buying more TS10 now and wait for $40 copper/brass and $50 Ti!!

Firelight2
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Had a problem with my TS10 tonight.

I noticed that one of the main LEDs appeared much dimmer than the other two. This is a recent change as when I got the light a few days ago all LEDs maintained the same brightness.

I opened up the bezel and took a look. The dim led looked pristine. No burn marks on it.

I then removed the star and reflowed the dim LED with a tiny bit more solder paste. It didn’t help. Same problem.

I took a close look at the leds running at low power with the optic off. The problem is only half of the dim LED is actually lighting up. Basically, the led is damaged and needs to be replaced.

What is the maximum rated current for the leds used in the TS10? They’re tiny and do not have a separate heatsink pad. Perhaps running on a fresh Vapcell H10 at turbo provides more power than these leds can handle.

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http://en.latticepower.com/NewsView.aspx?id=108

DC max current : 1400mA
Pulsed max current : 2000mA

Same as E21A.

I think somebody mentioned ~7A with a H10, so higher than the max pulsed current. And yeah of course with those LEDs without neutral pad the quality of the dielectric is very important.

Firelight2
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Ah that would do it.

In retrospect, this light probably would have been better off with a boost driver that could run on both AA and 14500. The lower max output of that driver compared to a FET would have protected the LEDs from burning out.

I think from now on I’ll run this TS10 and future ones on weaker cells. Perhaps Vapcell L10.

jon_slider
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Firelight2 wrote:
Perhaps running on a fresh Vapcell H10 at turbo provides more power than these leds can handle.
you are the second person to kill a CSP/E21a by using an H10

.

“With my custom hex and a fully charged Vapcell H10, it drew around 5A on turbo

I would definitely use a 3A cell, not a 10A cell

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Scary results. Time to swap H10 out and L10 in before this thing blow up. Shocked

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Firelight2 wrote:
In retrospect, this light probably would have been better off with a boost driver that could run on both AA and 14500. The lower max output of that driver compared to a FET would have protected the LEDs from burning out.

Or just a constant current circuit, set to 4A or 5A max current, without direct drive. Much cheaper and smaller than a boost driver and no issues getting parts etc... I'm honestly disappointed it has 7135 + FET. 

jon_slider
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MoreHiCRILumens wrote:
Scary results. Time to swap H10 out and L10 in before this thing blow up. Shocked
Yup.. TurboItis is a very dangerous condition. In combination w a 10A battery, the results can be Terminal.

I suggest setting the ceilings to 100/150, and disable Turbo.

I also suggest using the battery that Wurkkos sells, NOT an H10.

Kubrick89
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Wurkkos Terry wrote:
Hi Kubrick89,

I’m sorry the manager of the official mailbox may a little busy these days.
Terry is answering on facebook now.

Best regards,
Terry

Just to let anyone know that Terry has been awesome in solving this

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@Wurkkos, I believe the driver design should be changed entirely.for a fully regulated linear driver.

It would be either at 3/4A, but it would be nice.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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Firelight2 wrote:
In retrospect, this light probably would have been better off with a boost driver that could run on both AA and 14500. The lower max output of that driver compared to a FET would have protected the LEDs from burning out.

This is what I would like to see!
I prefer the AA capability to max output (as long as it has good output on 14500 and turbo).
I would be OK with no AUX LEDs when running on AA.

FB

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