Jon, both of them are listed at 1.4A DC continuous and 2.0A pulse, but of course we already know that the Nichia can handle a bit more (not much more, typical of most Nichia models). Same-ish power dissipation and Tj figures. Latticepower…history shows that they have not been very accurate in datasheet info (perhaps copying parameters to appear closest to what they are trying to emulate….the ol’ XML days…) They’ve come a long way, though, and nobody seems to have tested these in a bench test.
Using a “3A” battery here doesn’t ensure anything if we are sticking to these datasheet numbers, and it may also stress those cells if they are pushed to their max happy comfort range. I guess without a bench test of the emitters we need to be measuring amps at the emitter instead to see what they’re really getting. Haven’t undone mine yet and don’t really plan to but we should be sure the mcpcb contact with the host is also adequate, especially given the emitter footprint.
If we, collectively, had EVER stopped at datasheet max ratings, where would our hobby be today? Virtually all of our emitters are overdrive, mostly to great success and enjoyment. UV and colored emitters are the usual exception there.
Personally, for a $20 light with other flaws, I’m not too worried if it craps out. Haven’t used it a ton yet but I’ve run four cycles with Vapcell gold 3A and also H10…not yet measured current but will do so later this weekend…likely will keep running H10 and just see how it fares over time. All I can say is that we should slow down and observe, maybe, just as Wurkkos should have before releasing this model.
Can you please describe your method (how many wires, how many hands, how to activate Turbo, etc.) when measuring the LED current on an Anduril light that uses both the flashlight's body (for LED current) and an inner tube (for control current) without the tail cap switch being installed?
Thanks
I have measured LED currents using a clamp meter and one wire on Anduril lights with a side switch using the method in the below video from forum member SammysHP:
But, I have not been able to accomplish something similar on a tail switch Anduril light even when using a second wire connected to the inner control tube and making and breaking this connection because it seemed like either I could not make and break at the proper timing to get the light to function or maybe I could not keep the inner tube in constant contact with the head of the light.
Thanks, I remember Martin but had not seen that video and method for using a short stiff section of wire as a temporary switch and it worked successfully for me compared to trying to use the other end of a longer wire.
Too bad Martin (forum member M4D M4X) has not been recently active on this forum.
Yeah, wish he’d bop in as a member even if he was out of the sales game. His youtube channels are both still active, though, mostly Olight stuff in his native language.
My way was very similar to Matin’s video, except I only used a single piece of wire. I put one end on the battery and the other end on the inner tube plus momentarily on the outer tube to activate the switch.
1) No matter if the LEDs maybe burn due to too much current or bad soldering, I still think Wurkkos should change the driver to a linear design either way. It makes most sense for emitters like this, and who knows what super high drain cells may come in the future. Limiting the max output via a special firmware version might be a temporary solution, but linear drivers have more advantages other than "won't burn up emitters". Limiting the max output through the Anduril UI to avoid LED damage is very bad IMO, a light should never be left in a condition where it might destroy itself with a fresh cell after factory reset/default ramp settings in Advanced UI.
2) I still can't access the TS10 Aliexpress page from Germany. But at least now they are listed on wurkkos.com so that's good.
This is exactly what we want to do.
Or rather, we would love to do that.
For any interested flashlight enthusiast, we are welcome to contact us, then we will add some CSP2323 emitters to the parcel sent it for tests.
But sorry the number would not too much, because most of CSP2323 raw materials must ensure the normal supply of sale goods.
Sorry the champagne, purple, blue, green and grey these colors are on hold for now.
Because our PMC and warehouse partners were complaining that we made too many tags at the same time on TS10, which would affect the production and storage of other products.
Just for now, black+red+white, 4000k+6000k, red/blue/orange/green, we have 3*2*4=24 style models.
Including the allocation of raw materials, it is also necessary to re-run the audit meeting to make a decision.
We have ordered one set of new H10. It should be available tomorrow.
Then ready to find the specific reasons for this problem through a large number of samples collection.
I love how much you communicate about this, you're really doing this the right way. Other flashlight manufacturers should take notes on how to do this kind of problem solving.
Many thanks Jon. Hope you’re well. I haven’t been in for a while, we have pretty much zero data signal where we’re living in the camper, it’s both a blessing and a curse. Even a phone call involves walking up a hill to scrape a bit of signal out of the sky On the other hand, life is simpler surrounded by nature.
Torch ordered, and I threw in a silver with blue aux for good measure.
Serious lack of sleep due to the super warm weather is taking it’s toll 
