Agreed. For the 219b, I think a longer constant 2A per diode is much preferable to a more transitory 3A (with hardly noticeable increase in lumens and associated increase in heat).
Of course, this is all hypothetical for me based on my limited understanding of how these two drivers operate. It would be great to see runtime/lumens graph for both configurations.
Yep so now Emisar 219b 3500k has competition with 21700 battery, and Simon also lists multiple CCTâs for 519a! Had I not already have so many lights that I donât need :confounded: , I would not be able to resist. It feels like thereâs competition between Hank and Simon and itâs great for us hobbyists.
The 219b 3500k has a warm golden light without any trace of green tint. It actually makes legendary 219b 4500k appear a little sterile (cold/âwhitishâ) in comparison. IMHO no Nichia collection is complete without 219b 3500k. :+1:
Comparison beamshots below; taken with Canon DSLR with white balance fixed at 5000k as always. Please note a close-up shot in total darkness like this âintensifiesâ the colors; in actual use, please imagine the color of each LED would âfadeâ and become much less intense/saturated, less âcolorfulâ so to speak. I am sure I also have picture of the 219b 3500k shining on my living room (the wall of truth lol), will find and post later.
Amazingly enough the Opple is already here at the local office - unprecedented 1 week speed from China. I can hardly wait and fingers crossed they shipped the correct version, the Pro. It should be fun. :partying_face:
PS: I just checked the Aliexpress website link above and it seems as of today they are out of the Pro version again. If interested I think you just have to keep checking as it seems availability is on/off every few days. Really I am re-naming this as the Opple Henâs Teeth.
Sure. It would make for a VERY interesting comparison of real world results of 2 different drivers, 8A Buck vs 12A FET, in otherwise-identical lights.
There are other aspects to consider, equally interesting. What if your usage is short duration on/off burst lasting for say, less than minute, and not constant on as in a runtime graph? Would the FET version be better because of more brightness despite of maybe worse runtime graph? What about battery, will high current capacity Samsung 40T now make a difference? Will the FET version be the brightest quad 219b ever, making it more useful as a walk light?
First person to do this comparison gets my vote for reviewer of the year .
And you are correct. Depending on oneâs use case, the FET driver may be a better choice. If I need more lumens, I might also select a different LED⊠but would have give up the amazing 219b tint.
@Caleb, saw you posted this question on Convoy thread. I donât follow forum closely so please let us know if you get an answer.
In posts above I almost talked myself into buying the FET 219b 4500k for the brightness :person_facepalming: , but must resist. Itâs very hard for me not to click yes on something thatâs 30 bucks, but really, way too many lights I donât need.
The Convoy S21D with 219b 3500k is equally appealing. This is first offering of this beautiful R9080 LED with 21700 battery AND larger body with decent thermal mass (more prolonged brightness). Must also resist.
What I meant Jon is that because these lights all have automatic temp regulation, I think a smaller light with less thermal mass would reach upper temp limit faster and hence invokes step-down faster. The bigger light should have more prolonged brightness, especially at Turbo starting level.
Above is true in my admittedly limited experience of 219b 4500k in Convoy S21D vs Emisar D4V2. Granted there might be other factors (drivers, etc.) that affect brightness, but with both thermal limits set to 55, the Emisar dims not just to a lower level, but also does it sooner. (I still love my Emisar though because I like its tiny size and itâs a very pretty light.)
The Opple Pro/Series 3 is here! A mere 10 days from China to my house in LA. Itâs brand new and working as expected. Again, if youâd like to get one, just make sure itâs the item on the right side of the 2 pictures on the web site https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803116495145.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.4f2f18026hLcUc, where under âColorâ it will say Pro (please donât ask me why itâs under âColorâ). The other way to tell is of course the Pro is more expensive, ~$40.
The Nichia LEDsâ numbers measured with my Opple Pro are fairly consistent with known specs and findings of other posters.
For example the S21D with 219b sw45k - some preliminary trialsâ graph & numbers below. The test may not add to what is already known, but still it is fun to confirm for yourself. OCD brains tend to have doubts and if thatâs the case this Opple is a godsend .
FWIW this is Simonâs numbers (I believe) measured with the $600 Hopoocolor meter:
CRI for 219b sw45k Ra 96, R9 97, R12 79, DUV â0.0095
219b 4500k My numbers: CCT 4486 Ra 95.8, x 0.3582 y 0.3446 Duv â0.0087
agree, the 4500K 519a runs low, I just tested one of mine at 4200K, duv â0.0005
the nominal CCT that an LED is binned at is not exact, LEDs vary, in this case by 7%.
imo metered values vary due how bright the light is when tested, in addition to differences in the LEDs from one to the other, plus differences between the instruments used to do the test.
Even LEDs from the same roll, side by side neighbors, can have these variations.