【TS10V2 Al available】Wurkkos "slender waist" TS10v2 aluminum version available with black,green,orange

[jon_slider]

@Streamtronics

Dual channel Emisar lights are regulated by default, same linear regulation that people would like to see in TS10.

Is there any increase in heat risk from using an H10 battery (10A drain rate), with linear regulation as opposed to the existing FET in the TS10?

[Miguel_79]

@Wurkkos Terry

Sorry the champagne, purple, blue, green and grey these colors are on hold for now.
Because our PMC and warehouse partners were complaining that we made too many tags at the same time on TS10, which would affect the production and storage of other products.
Just for now, black+red+white, 4000k+6000k, red/blue/orange/green, we have 3*2*4=24 style models.
Including the allocation of raw materials, it is also necessary to re-run the audit meeting to make a decision.

Do you know when Wurkkos will start shipping the silver/white ones?

[Correllux]

@CRC2

@Correllux

CRC most of our usual emitters won’t do this until you really go super hot rod with a light design. FET drivers that let all the juice flow will usually get hot but with healthy cells and our usual circuit designs there’s nothing to worry about. This light is a little different with the emitter choice. And again, we don’t seem to know any more at this moment about exactly why at least two light have failed.

So can anyone tell me if it possible or impossible for my 40A IJOY 26650’s to harm my dual channel emisar d4sv2 with lh351d/w1?

No…as said, it’s totally fine. The driver is a good one and the light as a package is made to handle what you can throw at it. That, but also those Samsung emitters are the “usual” types that are used in most lights and we have been using and abusing for over a decade as “we” began to push emitters harder, challenging the datasheets’ max figures, etc. We have lots of experience and tests with that one and most other emitters. These little micro chippy smd emitters from Latticepower don’t have that testing that we’re aware of, and they’re also constructed differently so they can’t handle as much heat and/or need probably more attention to heat dissipation than what we give other emitters/flashlight designs in general. But that said, we still don’t know for sure why one emitter in one light failed (we know that Zumlin believes his similar Nichia E21A emitters that he swapped into his TS10 host failed due to a poor quality reflow (soldering) and another failed after being toasted too hot on his hotplate…so not much to arrive at any conclusions here, and other people (including myself) are turboing this light with an H10 cell just fine so far).

Seems to be a lot of confusion and possibly some misinformation floating around the internet right now because of this as to cells and circuits. But generally, with most light designs and healthy available cells to buy, it’s not a big issue - just some differences in light output for some. We don’t know fully yet about the TS10 but your D4SV2 will be happy with anything you can put into it.

As a side note example, when you ordered that light from Hank he matched the driver design/output with the emitters you picked. If you had picked something like the E21A or 219B emitters, he would have used a different driver that puts out less current because those two emitters don’t like the same amount of heat that other emitters can cope with. Most light designs take all of this stuff into account and are tested for awhile before being sold to the public, so what you get should be fine and if there are special cautions they’ll usually state such (like no 14500 in a light designed for 1.5v AA cells…using matched high drain/low resistance cells in a multi-cell light…protected cells in a light that uses cells in series instead of parallel…etc).

[BlueSwordM]

@jon_slider

Is there any increase in heat risk from using an H10 battery (10A drain rate), with linear regulation as opposed to the existing FET in the TS10?

No. The heat generated by LEDs in direct drive far exceed the heat created by the linear driver here.

[CRC2]

@Streamtronics

@CRC2

@Correllux

CRC most of our usual emitters won’t do this until you really go super hot rod with a light design. FET drivers that let all the juice flow will usually get hot but with healthy cells and our usual circuit designs there’s nothing to worry about. This light is a little different with the emitter choice. And again, we don’t seem to know any more at this moment about exactly why at least two light have failed.

So can anyone tell me if it possible or impossible for my 40A IJOY 26650’s to harm my dual channel emisar d4sv2 with lh351d/w1?

No, it’s fine. Dual channel Emisar lights are regulated by default, same linear regulation that people would like to see in TS10.

@Correllux

No…as said, it’s totally fine. The driver is a good one and the light as a package is made to handle what you can throw at it. That, but also those Samsung emitters are the “usual” types that are used in most lights and we have been using and abusing for over a decade as “we” began to push emitters harder, challenging the datasheets’ max figures, etc. We have lots of experience and tests with that one and most other emitters. These little micro chippy smd emitters from Latticepower don’t have that testing that we’re aware of, and they’re also constructed differently so they can’t handle as much heat and/or need probably more attention to heat dissipation than what we give other emitters/flashlight designs in general. But that said, we still don’t know for sure why one emitter in one light failed (we know that Zumlin believes his similar Nichia E21A emitters that he swapped into his TS10 host failed due to a poor quality reflow (soldering) and another failed after being toasted too hot on his hotplate…so not much to arrive at any conclusions here, and other people (including myself) are turboing this light with an H10 cell just fine so far).

Seems to be a lot of confusion and possibly some misinformation floating around the internet right now because of this as to cells and circuits. But generally, with most light designs and healthy available cells to buy, it’s not a big issue - just some differences in light output for some. We don’t know fully yet about the TS10 but your D4SV2 will be happy with anything you can put into it.

As a side note example, when you ordered that light from Hank he matched the driver design/output with the emitters you picked. If you had picked something like the E21A or 219B emitters, he would have used a different driver that puts out less current because those two emitters don’t like the same amount of heat that other emitters can cope with. Most light designs take all of this stuff into account and are tested for awhile before being sold to the public, so what you get should be fine and if there are special cautions they’ll usually state such (like no 14500 in a light designed for 1.5v AA cells…using matched high drain/low resistance cells in a multi-cell light…protected cells in a light that uses cells in series instead of parallel…etc).

Thank you very much guys.
This helps to put my mind at ease.

[UVChemist]

Anyone know if the tail cap is removable or if it’s glued like the bezel? I got a tail switch that’s not clicking down consistently and was trying to see if I could fix it.

[Sudsy]

@UVChemist

Anyone know if the tail cap is removable or if it’s glued like the bezel? I got a tail switch that’s not clicking down consistently and was trying to see if I could fix it.

I have one that was received with glue in the tailcap and one that was not. I have read that they should all be glued, though.

[Wurkkos_Terry]

6.30th 03:00 for PST

[Wurkkos_Terry]

It’s glued like the bezel.
When the tail cover is removed, professional tools are required to reposition and install the spring.
If it affects your normal use, please told customer service and show us the specific problem.
We will refund or send new one today.

[Firelight2]

@Sudsy

@UVChemist

Anyone know if the tail cap is removable or if it’s glued like the bezel? I got a tail switch that’s not clicking down consistently and was trying to see if I could fix it.

I have one that was received with glue in the tailcap and one that was not. I have read that they should all be glued, though.

I haven’t tried removing the tailcap, but I did remove the bezel.

It had a small amount of blue threadlocker. It was easy to unscrew the bezel by applying grip tape to the head and bezel for extra leverage. If the tailcap is glued the same it should be fairly easy to remove.

[Tendou]

How is the current draw differ between the aux LED color?

[jon_slider]

@Tendou

How is the current draw differ between the aux LED color?

see 【TS10V2 Ti available】Wurkkos "slender waist" TS10 titanium version will available on 23th,Sep - #131 by thefreeman

[SammysHP]

Hey, we haven’t even received the previous batch.

[starryalley]

I even haven’t received shipping notification from aliexpress for the second batch 4000k ones!

[mattlward]

I have not either, ordered first day they dropped.

[Streamtronics]

I'll wait for now, see if they come out with a linear driver (shouldn't take too long, they're easy to design) then when they manage to upgrade the driver I'll buy two (good & evil, silver with ice blue aux & black + red)

[dts71]

I totally missed this one - when will there be more?
Primarily looking for 4000k and ice blue secondary.

[kokosnh]

Have anybody measured the parasitic drain of TS10 HI AUX / low aux / off aux ?
There is a this thread on reddit

https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/vq2w2n/my_ts10_went_from_42v_to_34v_in_80_hours_with_no/

[zumlin]

@kokosnh

Have anybody measured the parasitic drain of TS10 HI AUX / low aux / off aux ?
There is a this thread on reddit

https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/vq2w2n/my_ts10_went_from_42v_to_34v_in_80_hours_with_no/

I took some measurements of the drain of my TS10 with orange aux before.

Aux off: 5uA

Orange aux on low: 123uA

Orange aux on high: 7.8mA

There seeems to be a problem with low voltage protection as mentioned in that reddit thread.

[ArtieT59]

@zumlin

@kokosnh

Have anybody measured the parasitic drain of TS10 HI AUX / low aux / off aux ?
There is a this thread on reddit

https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/vq2w2n/my_ts10_went_from_42v_to_34v_in_80_hours_with_no/

I took some measurements of the drain of my TS10 with orange aux before. Aux off: 5uA Orange aux on low: 123uA Orange aux on high: 7.8mA There seeems to be a problem with low voltage protection as mentioned in that reddit thread.

yes and LVP, as the user on Reddit said their battery was @ 2.4v

my sample I hadn't tested, but because the orange auxiliary LEDs are So Bright, I have kept my aux LEDs on low and didn't notice the drain at all.