Just opened mine, impressive light for the size/weight. But I seem to be messing something up when I’m trying to finish my setup:
7 clicks when in standby in advanced mode should let me change the standby button leds from blinking to off, right? I know I’m in advanced mode since I can change from smooth to stepped ramping and I know I’m in standby, but I can’t get the standby button leds to change.
Just opened mine, impressive light for the size/weight. But I seem to be messing something up when I’m trying to finish my setup:
7 clicks when in standby in advanced mode should let me change the standby button leds from blinking to off, right? I know I’m in advanced mode since I can change from smooth to stepped ramping and I know I’m in standby, but I can’t get the standby button leds to change.
It sounds like you’re doing it correctly. Run back through it once more.
Ensure you’re in advanced mode by clicking 10x, holding the last click, and continuing to hold it until the light stays off for more than 1 second.
Enter lockout mode by clicking 4x. It should blink to confirm the change.
Now click 7x to change the switch LED mode. The modes are blinking, off, low, and high.
Following these steps allows me to change the swith LED behavior in lockout on my sample, so I don’t think it’s a firmware bug.
Just opened mine, impressive light for the size/weight. But I seem to be messing something up when I’m trying to finish my setup:
7 clicks when in standby in advanced mode should let me change the standby button leds from blinking to off, right? I know I’m in advanced mode since I can change from smooth to stepped ramping and I know I’m in standby, but I can’t get the standby button leds to change.
It sounds like you’re doing it correctly. Run back through it once more.
Ensure you’re in advanced mode by clicking 10x, holding the last click, and continuing to hold it until the light stays off for more than 1 second.
Enter lockout mode by clicking 4x. It should blink to confirm the change.
Now click 7x to change the switch LED mode. The modes are blinking, off, low, and high.
Following these steps allows me to change the swith LED behavior in lockout on my sample, so I don’t think it’s a firmware bug.
I follow those steps, and I even get a double blink of the button after 7 clicks, but it’s staying in what I think is blinking mode. It will keep doing one dim blink, then a bright blink, then repeat that pattern. Is that some different indicator function, or is that the pattern for blinking mode?
I follow those steps, and I even get a double blink of the button after 7 clicks, but it’s staying in what I think is blinking mode. It will keep doing one dim blink, then a bright blink, then repeat that pattern. Is that some different indicator function, or is that the pattern for blinking mode?
That is the pattern for blinking mode. There is no other indicating function for the button LED built into Anduril.
Can you successfully change the button LED behavior when the light is NOT in lockout mode?
And just to be totally sure, we’re talking about the orange button LED’s, correct? Not the blue button LED’s.
I follow those steps, and I even get a double blink of the button after 7 clicks, but it’s staying in what I think is blinking mode. It will keep doing one dim blink, then a bright blink, then repeat that pattern. Is that some different indicator function, or is that the pattern for blinking mode?
That is the pattern for blinking mode. There is no other indicating function for the button LED built into Anduril.
Can you successfully change the button LED behavior when the light is NOT in lockout mode?
And just to be totally sure, we’re talking about the orange button LED’s, correct? Not the blue button LED’s.
Correct, we’re talking about the orange button LED.
So I hadn’t tried to change the standby mode LEDs since I prefer to keep those on high and lockout set to off, but I just tried it now and I can’t change standby LEDs away from high. I did verify that I was in advanced mode by switching ramped to stepped before I tried to change standby LEDs.
I follow those steps, and I even get a double blink of the button after 7 clicks, but it’s staying in what I think is blinking mode. It will keep doing one dim blink, then a bright blink, then repeat that pattern. Is that some different indicator function, or is that the pattern for blinking mode?
That is the pattern for blinking mode. There is no other indicating function for the button LED built into Anduril.
Can you successfully change the button LED behavior when the light is NOT in lockout mode?
And just to be totally sure, we’re talking about the orange button LED’s, correct? Not the blue button LED’s.
Correct, we’re talking about the orange button LED.
So I hadn’t tried to change the standby mode LEDs since I prefer to keep those on high and lockout set to off, but I just tried it now and I can’t change standby LEDs away from high. I did verify that I was in advanced mode by switching ramped to stepped before I tried to change standby LEDs.
I just tested my LT1 Mini and it will allow me to switch between stepped and smooth ramping EVEN IN THESIMPLE UI, which none of my other lights will do. That makes me think that you may actually be in the simple UI. Just one more time, try clicking 10x from off and holding the last click. Then try changing the switch LED settings.
I follow those steps, and I even get a double blink of the button after 7 clicks, but it’s staying in what I think is blinking mode. It will keep doing one dim blink, then a bright blink, then repeat that pattern. Is that some different indicator function, or is that the pattern for blinking mode?
That is the pattern for blinking mode. There is no other indicating function for the button LED built into Anduril.
Can you successfully change the button LED behavior when the light is NOT in lockout mode?
And just to be totally sure, we’re talking about the orange button LED’s, correct? Not the blue button LED’s.
Correct, we’re talking about the orange button LED.
So I hadn’t tried to change the standby mode LEDs since I prefer to keep those on high and lockout set to off, but I just tried it now and I can’t change standby LEDs away from high. I did verify that I was in advanced mode by switching ramped to stepped before I tried to change standby LEDs.
I just tested my LT1 Mini and it will allow me to switch between stepped and smooth ramping EVEN IN THESIMPLE UI, which none of my other lights will do. That makes me think that you may actually be in the simple UI. Just one more time, try clicking 10x from off and holding the last click. Then try changing the switch LED settings.
Thank you so much, that was it. I should have paid more attention to the user manual and realized that ramp options were still available in simple..
Yes, but not the latest according to the review posted a few pages back
reviewtext wrote:
It’s worth noting that mine came with firmware version 2021-08-29-0621, so it’s missing some of the latest features like instant-switching and 200% turbo.
and it seems charging terminates at 4.3v…as per the triple click flashes
You should check with a DMM. This is the first time I’ve heard of that high a termination voltage with a mini-LT. The internal check reads a little high straight from the factory I believe.
Yes, but not the latest according to the review posted a few pages back
reviewtext wrote:
It’s worth noting that mine came with firmware version 2021-08-29-0621, so it’s missing some of the latest features like instant-switching and 200% turbo.
I also cannot seem to change the led standby colour
That’s normal. The switch LED’s are not RGB, they are orange only.
mine flicks between orange and blue when charging and solid blue when full
orange when on standby
Right. Sorry, my wording was slightly ambiguous. The standby LED is orange. The blue is a charging indicator LED, not a standby LED. They’re two totally independent circuits and you cannot customize their colors.
and it seems charging terminates at 4.3v…as per the triple click flashes
You should check with a DMM. This is the first time I’ve heard of that high a termination voltage with a mini-LT. The internal check reads a little high straight from the factory I believe.
This was my experience as well. Mine read a little bit high out of the box.
and it seems charging terminates at 4.3v...as per the triple click flashes
You should check with a DMM. This is the first time I've heard of that high a termination voltage with a mini-LT. The internal check reads a little high straight from the factory I believe.
This was my experience as well. Mine read a little bit high out of the box.
1) There will be two (adjacent) "Voltage Correction Factor" settings that allow the "Battery Check" function to blink out "3.7" for a "Battery charged to 3.73 V".
2) Choose the one that can be selected with the least amount of clicks.
Note:
The above method adjusts the "Battery Check" function to blink out 3.7 when the battery voltage range is between 3.70 V and 3.80 V (or as close to that as is possible from adjustment).
Use a different battery voltage than 3.73 V if you want a lower or higher voltage range.
You can also use a battery at a different voltage than 3.73 V for adjustment. For instance, choose the "Voltage Correction Factor" selected with the least amount of clicks that allows the "Battery Check" function to blink out "4.1" for a "Battery charged to 4.13 V".
I bought a few of the N52 magnets that you linked (slightly thicker and stronger magnets). They look pretty big. I should be getting my Mini today, so I guess I will see if I can get one of the things inside of the spring. Any hints or tips on doing it without screwing something up??
I bought a few of the N52 magnets that you linked (slightly thicker and stronger magnets). They look pretty big. I should be getting my Mini today, so I guess I will see if I can get one of the things inside of the spring. Any hints or tips on doing it without screwing something up??
You might need to stretch the spring a bit.
Basically you slide the magnet in about halfway down the spring, then just spin the magnet around inside the tailcap to work it down to the bottom of the spring, then push it into the center.
I bought a few of the N52 magnets that you linked (slightly thicker and stronger magnets). They look pretty big. I should be getting my Mini today, so I guess I will see if I can get one of the things inside of the spring. Any hints or tips on doing it without screwing something up??
You might need to stretch the spring a bit.
Basically you slide the magnet in about halfway down the spring, then just spin the magnet around inside the tail cap to work it down to the bottom of the spring, then push it into the center.
I got the light and installed the magnet. It was easier than I thought it would be. Had to tweak it a bit to get it centered in the spring. But it took less than a couple of minutes max. These magnets are very strong. I got 5 of them. They came stacked with plastic spacers in-between them. I had to put them on the edge of the table and use shear force to separate them. The rest of the stack rolled away and stopped where a screw is on the other side of a 3/4” board. One holds the light nice and tight in any orientation on a ferrous surface. Thanks for the tip(s). Works great!
This has to be a much better solution than a disk magnet on the outside using double stick tape to hold it. Much neater. Now I need to find a use for the magnets and double stick tape I got to try that method.
In comparison to the “low” button led brightness of my LT1 standard, the Mini’s leds are at least twice as bright on the “low” mode. Is there a software feature to reduce the brightness of the low and standard brightness button levels?
How do you get to temperature check? The diagram at LT1-Mini Manual PDF file shows from off - 3 clicks to batt check then 2 more to temp check. When I do 2 clicks from batt check it goes to beacon then 2 more clicks to SOS and 2 more takes you back to batt check. I have tried factory resets and I am sure I am in advanced UI.
How do you get to temperature check? The diagram at LT1-Mini Manual PDF file shows from off – 3 clicks to batt check then 2 more to temp check. When I do 2 clicks from batt check it goes to beacon then 2 more clicks to SOS and 2 more takes you back to batt check. I have tried factory resets and I am sure I am in advanced UI.
Otherwise, the LT 1 Mini is great.
Mine is doing the exact same thing. Temperature Check is not in the rotation.
Just opened mine, very impressed and pleased with it.
Thanks to all involved.
I just sent a note to the guy who did my LT1 base, on treatstock
Working on it
Just opened mine, impressive light for the size/weight. But I seem to be messing something up when I’m trying to finish my setup:
7 clicks when in standby in advanced mode should let me change the standby button leds from blinking to off, right? I know I’m in advanced mode since I can change from smooth to stepped ramping and I know I’m in standby, but I can’t get the standby button leds to change.
It sounds like you’re doing it correctly. Run back through it once more.
Ensure you’re in advanced mode by clicking 10x, holding the last click, and continuing to hold it until the light stays off for more than 1 second.
Enter lockout mode by clicking 4x. It should blink to confirm the change.
Now click 7x to change the switch LED mode. The modes are blinking, off, low, and high.
Following these steps allows me to change the swith LED behavior in lockout on my sample, so I don’t think it’s a firmware bug.
Reddit | Grizzly’s Reviews | YouTube | Convoy Guide
I follow those steps, and I even get a double blink of the button after 7 clicks, but it’s staying in what I think is blinking mode. It will keep doing one dim blink, then a bright blink, then repeat that pattern. Is that some different indicator function, or is that the pattern for blinking mode?
That is the pattern for blinking mode. There is no other indicating function for the button LED built into Anduril.
Can you successfully change the button LED behavior when the light is NOT in lockout mode?
And just to be totally sure, we’re talking about the orange button LED’s, correct? Not the blue button LED’s.
Reddit | Grizzly’s Reviews | YouTube | Convoy Guide
Correct, we’re talking about the orange button LED.
So I hadn’t tried to change the standby mode LEDs since I prefer to keep those on high and lockout set to off, but I just tried it now and I can’t change standby LEDs away from high. I did verify that I was in advanced mode by switching ramped to stepped before I tried to change standby LEDs.
I just tested my LT1 Mini and it will allow me to switch between stepped and smooth ramping EVEN IN THE SIMPLE UI, which none of my other lights will do. That makes me think that you may actually be in the simple UI. Just one more time, try clicking 10x from off and holding the last click. Then try changing the switch LED settings.
Reddit | Grizzly’s Reviews | YouTube | Convoy Guide
Thank you so much, that was it. I should have paid more attention to the user manual and realized that ramp options were still available in simple..
Great job DBSar , Sigshooter & Team – I put my order in and they shipped it already it seems.
Not the longest thing I have waited for lately, but close…
This this an identical UI to the LT1?
I also cannot seem to change the led standby colour
Yes, but not the latest according to the review posted a few pages back
UI should be indentical:
Andruil Manual
That’s normal. The switch LED’s are not RGB, they are orange only.
Reddit | Grizzly’s Reviews | YouTube | Convoy Guide
mine flicks between orange and blue when charging and solid blue when full
orange when on standby
and it seems charging terminates at 4.3v…as per the triple click flashes
You should check with a DMM. This is the first time I’ve heard of that high a termination voltage with a mini-LT. The internal check reads a little high straight from the factory I believe.
my LT1 came with the original anduril, not the newer anduril2.
Right. Sorry, my wording was slightly ambiguous. The standby LED is orange. The blue is a charging indicator LED, not a standby LED. They’re two totally independent circuits and you cannot customize their colors.
Reddit | Grizzly’s Reviews | YouTube | Convoy Guide
This was my experience as well. Mine read a little bit high out of the box.
Reddit | Grizzly’s Reviews | YouTube | Convoy Guide
An Easy Method for Setting the Anduril 2 "Voltage Correction Factor" from:
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/81221
1) There will be two (adjacent) "Voltage Correction Factor" settings that allow the "Battery Check" function to blink out "3.7" for a "Battery charged to 3.73 V".
2) Choose the one that can be selected with the least amount of clicks.
Note:
The above method adjusts the "Battery Check" function to blink out 3.7 when the battery voltage range is between 3.70 V and 3.80 V (or as close to that as is possible from adjustment).
Use a different battery voltage than 3.73 V if you want a lower or higher voltage range.
You can also use a battery at a different voltage than 3.73 V for adjustment. For instance, choose the "Voltage Correction Factor" selected with the least amount of clicks that allows the "Battery Check" function to blink out "4.1" for a "Battery charged to 4.13 V".
How many flashlights does a "real man" need?
None, real men are not afraid of the dark.
@tactical_grizzly ,
I bought a few of the N52 magnets that you linked (slightly thicker and stronger magnets). They look pretty big. I should be getting my Mini today, so I guess I will see if I can get one of the things inside of the spring. Any hints or tips on doing it without screwing something up??
hard to believe this light doesn’t come with a magnet in the tail….
You might need to stretch the spring a bit.
Basically you slide the magnet in about halfway down the spring, then just spin the magnet around inside the tailcap to work it down to the bottom of the spring, then push it into the center.
Reddit | Grizzly’s Reviews | YouTube | Convoy Guide
I got the light and installed the magnet. It was easier than I thought it would be. Had to tweak it a bit to get it centered in the spring. But it took less than a couple of minutes max. These magnets are very strong. I got 5 of them. They came stacked with plastic spacers in-between them. I had to put them on the edge of the table and use shear force to separate them. The rest of the stack rolled away and stopped where a screw is on the other side of a 3/4” board. One holds the light nice and tight in any orientation on a ferrous surface. Thanks for the tip(s). Works great!
This has to be a much better solution than a disk magnet on the outside using double stick tape to hold it. Much neater. Now I need to find a use for the magnets and double stick tape I got to try that method.
In comparison to the “low” button led brightness of my LT1 standard, the Mini’s leds are at least twice as bright on the “low” mode. Is there a software feature to reduce the brightness of the low and standard brightness button levels?
WWII 60" Carbon Arc (Sold), 1.6KW NightSun, 1KW VSS-3A, .8KW TrakkaBeam, 600W M-134 Light, PolarLi 500 Watt 114MCP Custom, 500W X-500-14s, 500W Starburst, 500W A120b, 450 Watt AEG German Leopard 1 Tank Light, Enderman CFT-90 Syniosbeam, 300W Locators, Megaray (sold), 150W Communicator, Maxabeam Gen3 (sold), Pichel 75W Mini-Novas
How do you get to temperature check? The diagram at LT1-Mini Manual PDF file shows from off - 3 clicks to batt check then 2 more to temp check. When I do 2 clicks from batt check it goes to beacon then 2 more clicks to SOS and 2 more takes you back to batt check. I have tried factory resets and I am sure I am in advanced UI.
Otherwise, the LT 1 Mini is great.
How do you get to “Tint Ramping Mode”??
Mine arrived! These are very nice & well done. A big THANK YOU to all involved.
Pages