【Brass on Sale】Wurkkos TS10 "slender waist" 14500 triple LEDs Light with Anduril 2.0

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varbos
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jon_slider wrote:

for example, battery life on Bright Aux is less than 5 days, even with LVP.. that is not a useful mode.

It is not useful as an always-on aux for a flashlight on a shelf, no.

However it can be useful for reading a map while preserving night vision (in the case of the red aux). Or creating some ambiance in a dark room.

There will never be unanimous agreement about how bright an aux light should be, due to differing use cases. I think a low that is very low and a high that is quite high… this is a reasonable compromise.

If they made the High aux significantly less bright, so that it can last many months of battery… then essentially you would have two low modes, instead of high and low.

fogofwar
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jon_slider wrote:
thefreeman wrote:
Low AUX mode with anduril … ~70uA max for red,…more than 2 years with a 1000mAh cell and a red AUX LED on low.

zumlin wrote:

I took some measurements of the drain of my TS10 with orange aux before.

Aux off: 5uA

Orange aux on low: 123uA

Orange aux on high: 7.8mA

SammysHP wrote:
Yes, multi color LEDs are safe and single color in Anduril 2 if you use the blinking mode.

Could someone please measure the parasitic drain of TS10 Aux on blinking mode?

just wondering how many days to drain a battery if using blinking Aux..

fwiw, I do have the LVP patch installed, but it still makes me wonder how long a battery will last, even with LVP.

for example, battery life on Bright Aux is less than 5 days, even with LVP.. that is not a useful mode.

Extrapolating parasitic drain is often off by a lot. In my opinion, there is no substitution to measuring long-term drain since the drain level will typically be lower as the battery voltage drops.

For example, I did a long-term drain test for the TS10 and found the ice blue aux to reduce the standard Wurkkos battery from 4.18V to 2.90V in exactly 7 days. The drain is still too high to be practical but it’s a sizeable difference from 4.5 days.

I’m doing long-term drain tests on all my lights with electronic switches (1 month and 2 month tests).

fogofwar
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varbos wrote:
jon_slider wrote:

for example, battery life on Bright Aux is less than 5 days, even with LVP.. that is not a useful mode.

It is not useful as an always-on aux for a flashlight on a shelf, no.

However it can be useful for reading a map while preserving night vision (in the case of the red aux). Or creating some ambiance in a dark room.

There will never be unanimous agreement about how bright an aux light should be, due to differing use cases. I think a low that is very low and a high that is quite high… this is a reasonable compromise.

If they made the High aux significantly less bright, so that it can last many months of battery… then essentially you would have two low modes, instead of high and low.

I’m of the opinion that high aux should last at least 1 month. The TS10 drains from 4.2 down to 3.9 in just one day which is a crazy amount. The D4 levels are perfect for me.

jon_slider
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zumlin wrote:
I don’t think you can measure it with a multimeter like with the low or high mode. When you measure it, the current changes with each blink, there would not be a stable current to read at all. I am not sure how we can measure it accurately.

Ok thanks. Probably lasts twice as long as bright aux. no biggie. I will only use low aux
fogofwar wrote:
> TS10 …ice blue aux … 7 days.

Thanks
Your Blue aux seems to last a couple days longer than red.

thefreeman
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fogofwar wrote:

Extrapolating parasitic drain is often off by a lot. In my opinion, there is no substitution to measuring long-term drain since the drain level will typically be lower as the battery voltage drops.

For example, I did a long-term drain test for the TS10 and found the ice blue aux to reduce the standard Wurkkos battery from 4.18V to 2.90V in exactly 7 days. The drain is still too high to be practical but it’s a sizeable difference from 4.5 days.

I’m doing long-term drain tests on all my lights with electronic switches (1 month and 2 month tests).

I disagree, with two measurements at 4.2V and 2.8V like I’ve done you get a good enough estimation of how long it’ll last.

SammysHP
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Here I took some measurements with a different light. As you can see, the average power consumption of blinking shouldn’t be much more than constant low.

https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1867307#comment-1867307

Umpi2000
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discount gone on this now?

my9221
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Coupon code does not work!
Sorry it works & order placed!

Desdinova
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I know I’m late to the party, but I just ordered a black 5800k, ice blue auxs (the only version in stock). I’m not waiting any longer to get my hands on one. I am looking forward to it, but by the same token, I share the same reservations as a lot of other members, i.e. better driver, better pocket clip, better/more led choices, better anodizing, etc., but I’m going for it anyway. For $20.00, what the hell, why not? I’ll probably buy additional led/body finishes as they become available.

Wurrkos, I’ll reiterate what many others have said here. Give us a better driver, please. A lot of us, including me, are really over the “FET fad”. It really does make little sense in a light like this. I own numerous Wurrkos lights and will continue to support you, but that’s my $0.02.

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Desdinova wrote:

Wurrkos, I’ll reiterate what many others have said here. Give us a better driver, please. A lot of us, including me, are really over the “FET fad”. It really does make little sense in a light like this. I own numerous Wurrkos lights and will continue to support you, but that’s my $0.02.

Actually, it’s our fault. Wurrkos came here before they produced the light asking us what driver we wanted. While there was feedback on all sides, FET driver got the most support. So that’s what Wurrkos gave us.

It was only after it came out that many decided a boost driver would have been better.

my9221
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Can I use flat top battery?

Desdinova
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Yes, you’re right. I didn’t even consider that. Maybe on future runs… One can hope.

Still, for a twenty dollar light, I’m pretty jazzed about getting one, like I need another light.

Umpi2000
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Which coupon did you use on which site?

Firelight2
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my9221 wrote:
Can I use flat top battery?

Yes. The TS10 can run on both flat and button-top 14500.

Desdinova
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Actually, I didn’t use any. I didn’t even think about it and the total cost was only $21.99 USD, no tax, free shipping, so it seemed very fairly priced to me. I was so excited to find one in stock that I just ordered it without hesitation.

my9221
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Firelight2 wrote:
my9221 wrote:
Can I use flat top battery?

Yes. The TS10 can run on both flat and button-top 14500.


Thanks!
my9221
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The coupon code is WKMB888 but you need to create an account on wurkkos.com first!

Desdinova
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If there’s a model in stock other than black 5800k with ice blue auxs on Wurkkos.com, I’ll be darned if I can see it.

I’m patiently waiting for a silver 4000k with orange auxs.

Oh well.

thefreeman
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Firelight2 wrote:

Actually, it’s our fault. Wurrkos came here before they produced the light asking us what driver we wanted. While there was feedback on all sides, FET driver got the most support. So that’s what Wurrkos gave us.

It was only after it came out that many decided a boost driver would have been better.

I think people were concerned about the fact that the SP10S like driver option would have made the light longer.
Later some people proposed to use a regulated linear driver without FET direct drive. This wouldn’t have increased the length of the light. Even a buck driver with good board design wouldn’t need more space.

Desdinova
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I do understand that everything is a tradeoff, but I would gladly sacrifice a small amount of shortness for a more efficient driver, but that’s just me. I don’t envision this light replacing my usual EDC light(s), but I can see a niche for it. Furthermore, for me, I feel that it’s important to support the companies that at least listen to their potential end users. I really get a thrill out of reading through this (and other) threads and seeing companies posting drawings, pictures of prototypes and preproduction samples, asking for input from potential end users, etc. There is a LOT of knowledge on BLF, that’s abundantly clear. It’s nice to see it acknowledged.

Kudos to you, Wurkkos. You’re trying to innovate, and doing a pretty good job of it too.

jon_slider
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The Wurkkos TS10 w 4000K has become my EDC. It was the only light I used on a recent trip, and it did everything I wanted, perfectly. I did not lockout, had no false activations, clipped to back pocket did not have any issues.

.

my custom settings include:

manual memory at 10 lumens
hybrid memory for 10 minutes
hold from off gives floor without ramping up
ceiling is 110/150 = 250 lumens
2C gives ceiling
turbo off
thermal limit 50C
ramping speed 2
aux on low

pocket clip upgrade to Lumintop EDC05

firmware upgraded to add lower lows and aux light LVP

The lower lows, and ability to shortcut to floor without autoramping, plus the LVP patch for aux, and the pocket clip upgrade, have raised the TS10 to Personal Favorite status.

I like pretty much everything on my light, including the LEDs.

Thanks to all contributing to make the TS10 so Great!

Desdinova
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I typically EDC an 18650 light, but I’ll certainty keep an open mind about this one. My job requires me to use a flashlight routinely, so the capacity of a 14500 vs 18650 light may be a factor, but I’ll soon find out. Hopefully, the 4000k models will come back in stock soon. I had to buy the 5800k version.

An endorsement from jon_slider is really saying something.

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Desdinova wrote:
My job requires me to use a flashlight routinely
different circumstances lead to different solutions

my typical situation is low quantity of On time per day, and mostly at 10 lumens or less
I walk thru the house after turning out the lights (any excuse to play with my pocket jewelry).

it sits on my nightstand glowing pleasantly overnight,
during the day it is so Light I hardly notice it is there, clipped to my back pocket..
until I need to read a menu or look for something in a dark corner…

I like small things and prioritize light weight. The TS10 clipped and loaded, weighs just 51 grams. Im in my Anduril phase, im really fond of battery check.. lol..

The TS10 is just the Total Package, for my particular edc needs. Its also my first Aux Light experience.. Im becoming quite enamoured of them

The TS10 as I have it set up, will sustain about 200 lumens and I seldom use even half of that.. it cannot compete w 18650 in runtime.. nor will 14500 sustain higher output the way 18650 can.

The TS10 is just a really Nice Little Light, suitable for office carry, nightstand, pocket jewelry, and imo urban EDC in situations that do NOT use Turbo.

otoh, I think 18650 makes a lot of sense for a work light.. but its not an either-or question

both is best.. Beer

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both is best… Beer

Agreed. Thumbs Up

Desdinova
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OK, here goes. I have a TS10 incoming, but I assume that it will not have the latest/improved firmware. Having said that, I’m about ready to dip my toe into the reflashing pool. I have never done it, so a comprehensive guide would be very helpful, i.e. USB adapter, software/firmware links, etc. I don’t own a soldering iron/gun, never done reflows, so a ready to go adapter would be a huge plus. Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated. I also own an SP10 Pro, so there is another reason to learn this.

I know I’m posting this in the wrong thread, so please forgive me.

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Desdinova wrote:
I’m about ready to dip my toe into the reflashing pool. I have never done it, so a comprehensive guide would be very helpful
well.. it was so difficult for me, that I do not recommend the process, and cannot imagine teaching you.

however, this post helped me a lot https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1861493#comment-1861493

the process is Very Complicated, and relies on command line commands that I dont understand. Even to just install a premade Hex file, I could not do it without the instructions in the linked post.

To make my own custom Hex file is Not Going to Happen. It requires even more arcane command line inputs and additional software, that my 7 year old iMac Fails to load.

I suggest if you want your TS10 updated, hire the reflashing job out to a modder, such as Adair21.

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jon_slider wrote:
I suggest if you want your TS10 updated, hire the reflashing job out to a modder, such as Adair21.

I agree. Adair21 has done a ton of work for me. He actually has MY TS10 right now for an emitter swap and resistor mod for the aux LED’s so they aren’t so bright on high mode.

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I was sitting on the fence, eager to see feedback. Now that I have, wanted to get one in red with aux-red, and all sold out. In fact, Wurkkos site is completely sold out and AliExpress has just black with aux-orange. Bummer. Anyway, maybe it’ll leave open the chance for the aux-LED LVP to be included in the next batch.

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xevious wrote:
maybe it’ll leave open the chance for the aux-LED LVP to be included in the next batch.
you might ask Adair21 if he has a host with the colors you want.

fwiw, the most important firmware update imo is the Lower Lows..
that transformed the light into a 24 hour EDC, for me..
otherwise, it was too bright when I wake in the dark.

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xevious wrote:
maybe it’ll leave open the chance for the aux-LED LVP to be included in the next batch.
you might ask Adair21 if he has a host with the colors you want.

fwiw, the most important firmware update imo is the Lower Lows.. thanks to SammysHP

SammysHP wrote:

Here is an example ramping through levels 1 to ~45:

.


that transformed the light into a 24 hour EDC, for me, it now has a 0.02 floor..

otherwise, it was too bright when I wake in the dark.
because most Anduril lights cant go lower than 0.2 lumens
the notable exception being the SP10 Pro, that goes below 0.01 Lumens

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