However after getting it and testing it using my MM I’m only getting 500mA on high and less on medium and low. I am using DC amps and the 10 amp fused socket on the MM.
I have checked the LED and it is definitely a XM-L. To tell you the truth it doesn’t seem that bright. I was expecting more. It floods a lot and barely throws at all which I guess is to be expected from the 501B host. My older cree LED torch (cant remember the exact specs but its a Romisen of similar size at least 2 years older probably more) throws and floods better / brighter.
So I am not sure if I am reading it wrong or something is up. Basically all i am doing is taking the tailcap off and measuring between the terminal of the cell and the bare metal thread of the torch body. Each time i take the prob off and back quickly it changes through the various modes.
If you’re using nipple top 18650’s, make sure the contact spring at the base of the drop-in is contacting the battery terminal properly. Some of them are soldered on badly and point out at an angle, sometimes barely making contact.
Also, have you been able to confirm that the batteries you are using are capable of delivering above 1A in other devices?
Thanks for your help, from what I can tell the spring is contacting well but yes they are nipple top. Have tried different cells and the most I can get is 1A. haven’t got any other devices to test if the cells can deliver more current.
They are UltraFire XW 18650 cells bought off ebay.
It's your emitter. Go for it . XM-L can withstand DD with normal Li-ion. Just don't use low-resistance batteries like the LMR (or IMR).
My MF 3-mode throws like nobody's business after it was dedomed. Probably yours just need the extra amps after all. My high is DD at around 4Amps (up to 4.8A on full NCR18650A).
Got my Romisen RC-T601 II - XM-L U2 today from Shining Beam and am very happy with the torch.
I had a closer look at the XM-L T6 in the 501B and found the negative terminal solder joints that conduct from the torch case to the circuit board to be very average. One was a dry joint and had come loose and the other wasn’t real great either.
After re-soldering I measured with a Fluke DMM and it measured 1.5A with the standard test leads. I then measured the tailcap current of the Romisen and it also measured 1.5A on high.
So it must be the test leads. I must say I am pretty surprised the leads could make such a difference in the current reading. I am assuming the actual current is more like 3A?
personally, my first thought when I saw *fire cells + eBay was crap batteries. If you can, try and get hold of at least one decent cell (a NCR18650 or equivalent) and test again. If you still get 1.5A then it may be the driver/ connections or your DMM. If you get closer to 3A then it’s your cells.
I also believe it may be your cells. Ebay ultrafire/trustfire can be hit/miss with mostly rebadged salvaged cells. But it could also be your driver. I have a 504b i got from dd and it rocks with my unprotected panasonics.