Nice Seamaster, Cannga! I have the DeVille as well with satin finish face but no date (I just love the symmetry).
Thanks. I have a couple newer Omega’s but this one is my favorite!
You might have heard of the famous Convoy’s sustained brightness. Here is another example of the algorithm. Seems like thermal regulation kicks in at 55 C, but power is decreased to a level that is fixed, and does not go lower regardless of temp. As result the temp could sometimes go above 55. I recorded around 60 C at the head for many of my Convoys.
Of the lights that I have, final brightness level is usually about 1/3 of max brightness, using ceiling bounce measurement. The H2 headlamp with Nichia 219b is an exception, where it is 60% of max. For ease of comparison, max starting brightness is assumed to be 2000 lm for both lights.
Because I personally like brightness in use, this algorithm is actually one of the reasons that I like Convoy so much. Note also the stepdown of M21E with GT-FC40 is more abrupt compared to S21D with Nichia.
The first thing that came to mind when you said that this was your fathers watch was Pulp Fiction……
That’s a classic. One of my all time favorite movies.
More flashlight fun pics. I do wish for more variety of finish for these bigger Convoys. The Olight 3S’s Green is beautiful to me and am asking Simon if it’s possible.
With the recent addition to my flashlight emergency fund 
, I am thinking about the 5000K version of GT-FC40.
I’ve added M21F runtime to the above curve. The difference between M21F and M21E as far as runtime is really not much. From 100% start, M21F steps down a minute earlier, but settles to the same excellent Convoy sustained brightness, around 35% of max.
The main difference between 21F and 21E therefore is not really runtime, but the beam character. No surprise here, hotspot vs spill: M21E with a bigger reflector has brighter hotspot (more throw), and less spill (less flood). M21F has dimmer hotspot, but brighter spill, resulting in a more even field of vision, characteristic of a more floody light. The difference is obvious in back to back comparison. For medium and close up around the house work, M21F is better IMHO.
Both M21F and E are top notch medium throwers with high CRI and above all a tint that is closest to the famous Nichia 219b rosy tint that I’ve come across. Although I have other Nichia lights, and throwers, and of course the “ridiculous” TS30S with SBT90.2, M21F and E are the lights I use the most. I do have a slight preference for M21E because it is so rare to find a thrower with such fantastic beam color, and I like brightness for my walk. But that’s just me. Up close the M21E with its bright hotspot could be a little blinding.
Both a must have for any light collection IMHO; you can’t go wrong with either. 
I’d love to see a chart comparing the 12A S21D and the 8A S21D, if anyone has both and is interested in seeing the comparison too.
Look at the post above yours!
Now I would like to see a comparison of S21D 8A with 519A vs XPL HD.
If that was already there and I missed it, my bad.
However, I don’t use 100% on either version of the S21D because it gets too hot to hold, so the comparison I’m really after is the 35% mode of each (aka the real-world useful setting.) Just curious how they stack up.
The output on the 12A looks like it stabilizes at around 300, wondering if the 8A is identical or a bit brighter (because it doesn’t waste all that power in the first two minutes…or does it?)
The S21D 8A doesn’t step down in 35% mode, but the 12A does step down in 35% mode. The 8A has very impressive sustained brightness/size, but will run hot in some ambient conditions.
From Turbo start, percentage of max brightness where each flashlight settles after stepdowns, in general within 10 minutes after start. I checked these numbers because for the way I use my flashlight (as a walk light, duration ~50 min), where the light settles (the sustained brightness) is most important. Lights that settle at too low level are not good (for me) because then I would have to re-push button, then it would get dim again etc.
1. Convoy Headlamp H2 w/ Nichia 219b: 61%
2. Convoy S21D w/ Nichia 219b and 519a: 37-40%
3. Convoy M21E, F, and B w/ Getian GT-FC40: 35-37%
4. Nitecore MH12S w/ SST40: 33%
5. Fenix Headlamp HM65R-T w/ SST40: 32%
6. Emisar D4V2 with Nichia 219b: 22-26%
7. Wurkkos TS30S w/ SBT90.2: 16%
8. Wurkkos TS21 w/ 60° Max Temp: 16%
9. Coast XPH30R Headlamp: 15%
As some of us have observed, Convoy lights tend to settle at highest level, that’s partly why I love them. All Convoy lights stay bright but the Convoy H2 headlamp with Nichia 219b in particular is fantastic and extremely highly recommended as headlamp for evening walk/exploration (keep in mind it is heavy so you need to buy headstrap with a top strap like Convoy’s own upgrade strap available on Aliexpress, or like this one). The Nitecore MH12S, one of my favorite throw lights, is not bad.
The few Anduril lights that I have tend to settle at the lowest percentage, especially Wurkkos, even after thermal limit has been raised. But note that 16% of the monster SBT90.2 LED in the Wurkkos is still the brightest light in my collection .
Sorry to interject--I am inclined to think that absolute output in lumens is a more reasonable measure of sustained output than percentage of turbo.
Consider, hypothetically, two lights A and B that are otherwise identical, except that light A can sustain 500 lumens and turbo 1000 lumens, while light B can sustain 1000 lumens and turbo 4000 lumens. You would probably want to choose light B for the purpose of sustained output, even though it has the lower percentage.
No problem - sorry I wasn’t clear. When you see percentage output listed it’s usually because the amateur tester doesn’t have one of those contraptions to measure actual output. Percentage of max output is obtained by ceiling bounce method and I’ve been close when I checked my result against reviews with “real” numbers.
Most of the relevant lights I have have 2000 lm output (2,3,4 and prob 6). There’s actually a 4000 lm in this group, the Wurkkos SBT90.2 monster, and I made a brief note about it.
Ahh I see, that makes a lot of sense. I should not have assumed that you own an integrating sphere ;) (I sure don't!). Percentages that you gave are still extremely useful, as if a user wishes, they could use output from review databases to convert them into lumens.
Yes my integrating sphere is the guest bathroom with a big mirror and no window. Lumen measurements are overrated (said the guy who couldn’t measure lumen :innocent: ); plenty numbers available.
Kidding aside I do use “pro”’s reviews to check my values, like the recent excellent TS30S review by Luxwad. (And conversely, use my measurements to check theirs to make sure no one drops the ball. )
For example Luxwad’s turbo start brightness is 4500, and stepping down to 600-700. My stepdown percentage for my TS30S was 16% using ceiling bounce.
The results with Anduril lights bring me to my next test, to determine whether that final brightness could be higher were I to increase the thermal limit to the max level that Anduril allows, 60 C. The answer is unfortunately, no. Still 16% for Wurkkos. Some other observations:
1. At 60° C, my Anduril lights are still at the bottom as far as sustained brightness. Brightness tends to drop very fast in the first few minutes, off a cliff vs my Convoy and Nitecore that have proprietary UI, at least based on my limited test.
2. Unequivocal evidence that the thermal limit makes a big difference in both prolonged initial brightness AND the final brightness. (Reading reviews of other Anduril flashlights this has not always been clear cut to me.) This is a good sign that Anduril auto regulation is working exactly as intended.
3. When I set Wurkkos and Emisar D4V2 to 60° C max, the external temp as measured by my IR gun is around 50-55° C at the head. What this may imply (meaning I’m speculating) is that the internal temp of Convoy MAY be even higher than the 60 that I’ve measured externally at the head.
4. When I reset my Wurkkos and Emisar to factory setting, the temp read 8 C° and 12 C° respectively, where it should be around 20° C. If I didn’t re-calibrate, then this would bring the max limit to something 10° C higher than set (I hope I’m not losing you here Smile ). Basically this is a way to cheat and increase T max of Anduril . Not recommending, just noting.
5. Next I’m going to Anduril max limit 70° C. Hope nothing will explode on me lol.
Turbo run-down to eventual brightness: ceiling bounce percentage of max brightness that each light settles to after a Turbo start:
1. Convoy Headlamp H2 w/ Nichia 219b 4500k: 61%
2. Convoy S21D w/ Nichia 219b 4500k and 519a: 37-40%
3. Convoy M21E, F, and B w/ Getian GT-FC40: 35-37%
4. Nitecore MH12S w/ SST40: 33%
5. Fenix Headlamp HM65R-T w/ SST40: 32%
6. Emisar D4V2 with Nichia 219b 4500k w/ 70° Tmax : 30% (int temp 64° C, ext temp 59° C, cannot hold w/ bare hand)
7. Emisar D4V2 with Nichia 219b 4500k w/ 60° Tmax : 23%
8. Wurkkos TS21 w/ 70° Tmax: 22%
9. Wurkkos TS21 w/ 60° Tmax: 16%
10. Wurkkos TS30S w/ SBT90.2: 16%
11. Coast XPH30R Headlamp: 15%
12. Emisar D4V2 with Nichia 219b w/ 45° Tmax: 14%
13. Wurkkos TS21 w/ 45° Tmax: 8% 
my poor Wurkkos, at least the LED is a gem
I added numbers for T max set at 70° C. I don’t really recommend this because both the Wurkkos and D4V2 became very hot at Tmax 70° C and no longer could be hand held. External temp at this setting was similar to that of my Convoy lights, 59° C. Internal temp was at least 64° C.
But… note the D4V2 did hit 30%, closer to Convoy’s numbers. Hopefully with a larger host and more efficient driver, external temp would be more acceptable and this percentage would be even higher. Would an Emisar D4K with boost driver be such a light? Finally a worthy (and very pretty) competitor to Convoy S21D, with multiple finishes and numerous Nichia LED choices? Hmmm I’m tempted.
You can get the D4V2 in a boost driver as well. I believe the only difference in the D4K is the battery tube. I'm pretty certain the head is the same size, so dissipation probably won't improve much, regardless of the larger tube.
Would love to see Hank make the head longer, and have more heatsink on it, kinda like the EDC18. With the boost driver, the D4K could be beast of efficiency using a larger head.
Shoot out at the OK corral - Nichia B35AM 4500k vs Getian GT-FC40. I wonder if the B35AM could de-throne GT-FC40 as THE thrower with rosy tint to buy. It’s not going to be easy because GT-FC40 is the great Nichia 219b imitator. Same host so the comparison with COD level beamshots would be interesting.
As usual I don’t need another light, and much prefer integral USB-C charging and side switch but the MAO M21B has an interesting finish and I can’t wait.
I actually attribute this purchase to Tactical Grizzly’s excellent Convoy Guide Grizzly’s Convoy Guide – Grizzly's Reviews . That guide is “trouble” when you have sudden increase in the Emergency Flashlight Fund.
