Thanks for checking batts. It’s definitely a shutdown of some kind. Nothing’s loose. Either the light is doing it (suspected) or the battery (maybe). 18650 Xtars, some flamers, all unprotected (sanyo, sony, panasonic, moli) work just dandy, but some flamers just shut off after about 10 seconds. Not the end of the world. I also have a Trustfire 5 q5 1500L that is also very picky. It’ll cycle to blinky if it gets a batt it doesn’t like. As I said, I think it has something to do with slight overcharging. Batts at 4.16-4.20 volts or so seem to trigger the shut down, or maybe there’s just not enough power in the batteries in question. I agree with whoever suggested that the 26650 would solve the prob. They’re on the way. In the meantime, I have set aside some batts that aren’t 2010 compatible. They also seem to be the ones that the 1500l doesn’t like.
Unlike the 1500L, however, it doesn’t step to a lower power, she just shuts off. If I quickly switch to a lower power, everything is fine. Looks like the flamers in question don’t have the power. Probably an AA eneloop packed in a fake trustfire flame masquerading as a real flamer..
Once again, thanks everyone. At least now I know I am the only one having this problem, which is pretty typical for me :-0
Got the copper board U2 in, does it seem any brighter? Not really to me, but I don’t have anything to measure with other than my eyes. Also the board is thinner and with the pill screwed out some it flickers and keeps changing modes, may have made it worse, not better. May send this to E1320, still debating.
Got the copper board U2 in, does it seem any brighter? Not really to me, but I don’t have anything to measure with other than my eyes. Also the board is thinner and with the pill screwed out some it flickers and keeps changing modes, may have made it worse, not better. May send this to E1320, still debating.
copper alone is not going to increase lumen output on a cold start. Copper has the same ambient temperature as aluminum. Where it may (in theory) pay off is with higher drive currents, where it should conduct heat away more efficiently than the aluminum heatsink. But even thats debatable with an aluminum pill underneath.
Maybe you could use a thicker gasket in front of the glass to help take up the extra gap form the thinner copper?
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.
bose301s wrote:
Got the copper board U2 in, does it seem any brighter? Not really to me, but I don't have anything to measure with other than my eyes. Also the board is thinner and with the pill screwed out some it flickers and keeps changing modes, may have made it worse, not better. May send this to E1320, still debating.
The flicker may be a dry solder or poor contact of the pill with the reflector housing causing a bad earth.
—
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.
I'm after a holster for this flashlight. Something that does not have a bottom in it so the bottom of the battery tube does not sit in anything. Any recomendations?
—
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
, MTBR’s Lights & Night Riding Forum NOTE: Now hosting my photos from my Google account. Post up if you can’t see them. Older photos hosted on Photobucket or Flickr may disappear (PM me if you want access to them).
Is the UltraFire HD2010 600 or 1300 or 390 lumens?
When I google UltraFire HD2010 I some sites advertizing 600 lumens and another sites 1300 lumens and also 390 lumens. Are these the same Ultrafire HD2010s, ignoring color, but using different drivers? Or are they different because of the battery being used (protected/unprotected)?
Is the UltraFire HD2010 600 or 1300 or 390 lumens?
When I google UltraFire HD2010 I some sites advertizing 600 lumens and another sites 1300 lumens and also 390 lumens. Are these the same Ultrafire HD2010s, ignoring color, but using different drivers? Or are they different because of the battery being used (protected/unprotected)?
Is the UltraFire HD2010 600 or 1300 or 390 lumens?
When I google UltraFire HD2010 I some sites advertizing 600 lumens and another sites 1300 lumens and also 390 lumens. Are these the same Ultrafire HD2010s, ignoring color, but using different drivers? Or are they different because of the battery being used (protected/unprotected)?
Those are all the HD2010. Its just www retailers copy-pasting whatever description they can find. I think its somewhere in the 750-900 lumen range. Its slightly brighter than the stanley fatmax on a ceiling bounce and a member on the other forum measured his stanley around 750 Lumens in his sphere.
Actually, now that I think about it, I'm not sure why either but it did come with an o-ring around the pill so, had to report it. It was very thin so I replaced it.
Why would they put an o-ring there? Seems like that would hamper heat trasfer a bit, if anything.
hmmmFoy
—
No referral links and nothing embedded . . . ever.
I’m not sure I get the significance of an o-ring around the pill. What is that for? Thanks. Nice review by the way!
Good question, mine had that too. I dont think it serves any purpose… “maybe” its a way to help snug everything up if a run of lights has a bad tolerance stackup that doesn’t add up?
I recall in another post someone saying their somethingfire HD2010 was pulling just a little over 2amps on high…and I wondered if that was because it was where they bought it, or
that even tho it was an HD2010, it just wasn’t branded an UltraFire-
I’d rather have it pull 5A out-of-the-box than 2A, if it was as simple as buying it from the ‘right’ dealer-
TangsFire from DD, for <$34. Someone said that, but, if I remember well, drivers were absolutely identical Quite strange.
Does someone have 15% off for TMart?
I have had a half dozen of these come in for driver swaps and all of them had marks on the ano and also on the reflector. I finally got a perfect one it’s the first black one I have seen and my first order from Lightmalls for $38.90. I don’t know if the defects are limited to the gray ones or if Lightmalls has a different supplier. I can say I really like this light and finally getting one with no defects is nice. http://www.lightmalls.com/perfect-ultrafire-hd2010-600lm-cree-xm-l-t6-5-... !{width:100%}http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd395/erikkress/Picture097-1.jpg!
Erik, is the UltraFire HD2010 that you got from Lightmalls the same as TMarts’ UF 2010’s (driver, screw-in pill, etc.)?
The 600Lumens in the product description makes me wonder if it needs a driver upgrade ASAP, or it will be okay if left stock (for awhile)-
Just narrowing the search before I pull the trigger-
Lookin’ to get a couple of them…
Thanks!
Yes they are all the same component wise same driver emitter etc.. The Internationale Outdoor one had a darker grey color that I liked better than the light gray Tmart one but the Black one looks best in my opinion.
—
I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.
It’s the T-Mart one. I just popped a fresh Rev Jim’s 18650 into it and got 3.25A with no compression and 3.8A when I pushed it down and compressed the spring.
Go figure.
—
Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!
Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.
trooplewis wrote:
It's the T-Mart one. I just popped a fresh Rev Jim's 18650 into it and got 3.25A with no compression and 3.8A when I pushed it down and compressed the spring. Go figure.
I tested mine again in stock configuration last night and came up with pretty much the same results. Before from memory it would only pull 2.7 amps. This was from a Tangsfire version. At 2.8 amps this thing still rocks.
—
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.
I ordered these from MF hoping for a nicer action switch and to my surprise the switch on the board is identical to the standard switch. The only difference is the board is a slightly bigger diameter which can be filed down no problem and the spring is slightly different which should also not cause any problems.
Nice review Foy, thanks.
Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "
Sounds interesting. Any pictures?
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Hi everyone:
Thanks for checking batts. It’s definitely a shutdown of some kind. Nothing’s loose. Either the light is doing it (suspected) or the battery (maybe). 18650 Xtars, some flamers, all unprotected (sanyo, sony, panasonic, moli) work just dandy, but some flamers just shut off after about 10 seconds. Not the end of the world. I also have a Trustfire 5 q5 1500L that is also very picky. It’ll cycle to blinky if it gets a batt it doesn’t like. As I said, I think it has something to do with slight overcharging. Batts at 4.16-4.20 volts or so seem to trigger the shut down, or maybe there’s just not enough power in the batteries in question. I agree with whoever suggested that the 26650 would solve the prob. They’re on the way. In the meantime, I have set aside some batts that aren’t 2010 compatible. They also seem to be the ones that the 1500l doesn’t like.
Unlike the 1500L, however, it doesn’t step to a lower power, she just shuts off. If I quickly switch to a lower power, everything is fine. Looks like the flamers in question don’t have the power. Probably an AA eneloop packed in a fake trustfire flame masquerading as a real flamer..
Once again, thanks everyone. At least now I know I am the only one having this problem, which is pretty typical for me :-0
Got the copper board U2 in, does it seem any brighter? Not really to me, but I don’t have anything to measure with other than my eyes. Also the board is thinner and with the pill screwed out some it flickers and keeps changing modes, may have made it worse, not better. May send this to E1320, still debating.
copper alone is not going to increase lumen output on a cold start. Copper has the same ambient temperature as aluminum. Where it may (in theory) pay off is with higher drive currents, where it should conduct heat away more efficiently than the aluminum heatsink. But even thats debatable with an aluminum pill underneath.
Maybe you could use a thicker gasket in front of the glass to help take up the extra gap form the thinner copper?
My flashlight + watch reviews... enjoy!!
The flicker may be a dry solder or poor contact of the pill with the reflector housing causing a bad earth.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
I'm after a holster for this flashlight. Something that does not have a bottom in it so the bottom of the battery tube does not sit in anything. Any recomendations?
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Yeah, I'm wondering what good holsters are out there for 26650 sized lights in general.
-Garry
My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques
, MTBR’s Lights & Night Riding ForumNOTE: Now hosting my photos from my Google account. Post up if you can’t see them. Older photos hosted on Photobucket or Flickr may disappear (PM me if you want access to them).
Is the UltraFire HD2010 600 or 1300 or 390 lumens?
When I google UltraFire HD2010 I some sites advertizing 600 lumens and another sites 1300 lumens and also 390 lumens. Are these the same Ultrafire HD2010s, ignoring color, but using different drivers? Or are they different because of the battery being used (protected/unprotected)?
Site advertizing 600 lumens
http://www.lightmalls.com/perfect-ultrafire-hd2010-600lm-cree-xm-l-t6-5-mode-led-flashlight-1×18650
http://www.dinodirect.com/wholesale-flashlight-hd-cree-t6-600lm-led.html
Site advertizing 1300 lumens
http://www.tmart.com/UItraFire-CREE-XMLT6-8W-1300-Lumen-5-Mode-LED-Flashlight-Gray_p135765.html
Site advertizing 390 Lumens
http://lightake.com/detail.do/sku.UltraFire_HD2010_Cree_XM_LT6_3_Mode_390_Lumens_LED_Flashlight_Torch_Gray__1×18650_-51207
Those are all the HD2010. Its just www retailers copy-pasting whatever description they can find. I think its somewhere in the 750-900 lumen range. Its slightly brighter than the stanley fatmax on a ceiling bounce and a member on the other forum measured his stanley around 750 Lumens in his sphere.
My flashlight + watch reviews... enjoy!!
I just wanted to add an update from a PM I received from Sherry Ye at Tmart. She offered me an $8 credit. I graciously accepted.
/whineFoy
No referral links and nothing embedded . . . ever.
 
I’m not sure I get the significance of an o-ring around the pill. What is that for? Thanks. Nice review by the way!
Actually, now that I think about it, I'm not sure why either but it did come with an o-ring around the pill so, had to report it. It was very thin so I replaced it.
Why would they put an o-ring there? Seems like that would hamper heat trasfer a bit, if anything.
hmmmFoy
No referral links and nothing embedded . . . ever.
 
Good question, mine had that too. I dont think it serves any purpose… “maybe” its a way to help snug everything up if a run of lights has a bad tolerance stackup that doesn’t add up?
My flashlight + watch reviews... enjoy!!
Has anyone measured lux numbers of this powerhorse?
It’s now $33.52, with US based shipping. I’m just saying…
http://www.tmart.com/UItraFire-CREE-XMLT6-8W-1300-Lumen-5-Mode-LED-Flashlight-Gray_p135765.html
http://www.tmart.com/UItraFire-CREE-XMLT6-8W-1300-Lumen-5-Mode-LED-Flashlight-Black_p135768.html
http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/w/waltwhitma146847.html" title="view quote" style="border: 0px;
In B L A C K, less than 3 weeks ago --- Black was PREMIUM Priced >$40, (I think)
is the tmart hd 2010 just as bright as the manafont one? or are they all the same?
im looking to buy one.
The only reason I would want a driver swap on this guy is to get rid of the flashies. It already pulls up to 5 amps.
Foy
No referral links and nothing embedded . . . ever.
 
I have been wondering the same thing. Do all HD2010's from everywhere have the same driver?
goodquestionFoy
No referral links and nothing embedded . . . ever.
 
TangsFire from DD, for <$34. Someone said that, but, if I remember well, drivers were absolutely identical
Does someone have 15% off for TMart?
Yes they are all the same component wise same driver emitter etc.. The Internationale Outdoor one had a darker grey color that I liked better than the light gray Tmart one but the Black one looks best in my opinion.
I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.
Mine pulls 2.25A, but that is on an 18650 battery…I have no 26650’s yet.
Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!
Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...
http://dreammustang.com/
Hey, troop, thanks for the info
Which one do you have? (from TM, DD, other? Ultrafire? TangsFire?)
It’s the T-Mart one. I just popped a fresh Rev Jim’s 18650 into it and got 3.25A with no compression and 3.8A when I pushed it down and compressed the spring.
Go figure.
Rats, finally sold my 2010 509hp Mustang...now I can buy more lights!
Sold the red one too! Now guess what I drive, doing my penance for 500 hp commuters...
http://dreammustang.com/
I tested mine again in stock configuration last night and came up with pretty much the same results. Before from memory it would only pull 2.7 amps. This was from a Tangsfire version. At 2.8 amps this thing still rocks.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
I ordered these from MF hoping for a nicer action switch and to my surprise the switch on the board is identical to the standard switch. The only difference is the board is a slightly bigger diameter which can be filed down no problem and the spring is slightly different which should also not cause any problems.
http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-replacemnet-tailcap-switch-component-5pcsset-p-7451
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Link, please
Stupid me. Link added.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
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