Once again, that was great! Tho I like my Mags with driver and NiMH, this thing might be perfect for lithium primaries.
Btw, for those round copper pieces.. I had the same problem so I took a piece of 8AWG wire and soldered it to a square piece of copper. Fits right into the standard Dremel collet. Then just fire the Dremel up a little faster and use a ripping chisel to scrape off the excess copper (I tried sand paper and the sharpening stones at first, but there wasnt enough abrasion for me). If you have a good and sharp chisel and find the right angle, its like a mini-lathe. At the end I use some of the sharpening stones from Dremel, to break the edge. Doesnt really matter which one though, almost anything works with copper.
I’ve tried a couple punches like that. The ends just fractured off. Even though they say for metal, they only seem to work on leather or thin plastic, with a soft wood underneath. I did find some disc cutters, but don’t want to part with the money right now.
I noticed you changed the way you make the heatsinks. I like the way you made the new ones on the 12 you made over that weekend and was wondering if you could post the sizes and lenths you used on the new one. Gathering some parts and making notes to try and take a stab at making some the Old Lumens way.
I need to update that video. I totally forgot about it.
The copper disc that the led star sits on, is 3/4" diameter.
That is the disc that actually rests on the top lip of the threads, inside the head. 3/4" is a little too big, so I file the outside till it just fits in the head. Then I cut a piece of 1/2" copper pipe for the heat sink. It's cut at 5mm long. I solder that to the underside of the 3/4" disc. I fill it with copper shot and solder. I place a 5/8" copper disc on top of that and solder it to the heat sink. (the discs can be anywhere from 18ga to 24 ga. It's up to you).
I cut a piece of 1/4" copper tube at a length of 8mm and solder it to the center of the bottom of the heat sink. That is the center positive post, that sticks down into the body. I use a plastic washer as an isolator and cut a thin copper (about .010" thick) disc, from copper sheet, to make the positive contact.
I opened up the body tube ID, because it’s close to the OD of that positive post on the heat sink. Also, because I do not measure center, but I do it by eye, when I put those posts on, so they could be off a little. It only takes a couple minutes with a round file and at least I know it clears that way.
I'm at work. Can't give you the link. The optics are from CNQG and they have (or did have) 15 degree, 30 degree and 45 degree. I believe the 15 and 30 degree are sold individually and the 45 degree are in fives. They are 20mm TIR and made for XM-L, but they work well with Nichia.