Please bear with me on this, I’m not expecting to get any answers but it’s worth a shot incase one of the resident electronics experts has an idea.
Before I start, let me just say that this is a photoshopped image. I couldn’t find a picture of my driver, but found one very similar but with a few extra components, so I shopped them out.
In the image below, what you will see is Exactly the components I have on my driver board. There is nothing on the back of the driver.
It is a 3-mode driver. If I connect the LED negative to OUT- I get 1.4 amps (tailcap), if I connect LED negative to OUT1- I get 2 amps (tailcap).
What I would really like to do is find a way to remove the strobe mode. I like having high and low but not strobe. If I have to live with Only High, that’s not a problem either but I really want to get rid of strobe due to the (turntailcap) nature of the on/off arrangement in this light.
Thanks in advance but I’m not holding out much hope
Furthermore, is that CX2829 IC likely to be this ? (or a clone of some sort)
Hi I think I’ve seen this ic in another thread somewhere I might be wrong tho. The strange thing is there’s no mosfet to switch the led assuming the cx2829 is a microcontroller of some sort. Unless this is a master that drives a remote slave board.
Thank you Major, very useful indeed. The funny thing is though, there isn’t a power transistor on the board. I’m suprised they’re using this chip on it’s own. (I’ll double check that I’m not losing my mind and missed it)
The driver in the keygos m10 I received looks very similar to this, but it has more resistors on it. I will dig it out of the parts bin over the weekend and try to rid it of its evil flashings. Im no electronics wizard though
Woody
Thanks Woody, that would be great if you manage to figure it out. I’ve double checked and there really are no other components on the board apart from the one’s shown in the picture.
That’s what I call a budget-budget driver lol. It’s had a fair bit of use and hasn’t blown up yet though, so I’ll push on with it while it lasts.
CX2829 is an IC
MEM2309 Series P-channel enhancement mode field-effect transistor is a MOSFET
The resistors are there to buck down the current.
I think I could just connect the LED to OUT1+ and get a direct drive through the mosfet without the buck resistors.
I’ll try to reuse this for another project will see if it will work on double AAA
From fonarevka:
Saik SA-9
CX2829 can be something like PIC10F220.
Though how do these other lights work at those high currents I have no freaking idea.
The Keygos M10 has a power mosfet to handle the switching.
I think it may be some programmable switching thingy.
Does it get hot at 1.4-2.0A?
I’m mainly looking for something that will switch 0.35-1.0A but at 1.5-3.0V. So AMC7135 can bite the dust…
CX2829
1
Vcc
2
4.7uF to ground
3
10kOhm to Vcc and to control Mosfet MEM2309
4
Ground
5
Ground
6
Ground
MEM2309
1
Out
2
Out
3
Out
4
Out
5
Vcc
6
Vcc
7
Vcc
8
Input/Control
I think the CX2829 grounds the control pin, so it grounds the input pin of MEM2309. When not grounded it is connected via 10kOhm to Vcc.
I could just bypass the CX2829 and control the input of MEM2309 directly and get high mode only.
You can’t since everything is hardcoded into the CX2829.
The modes of my driver are: 5, no memory: High 100, Medium 50, Low 13%, Fast strobe, SOS.
And the resistor network is 8x 1.5Ohm parallel = 0.1875Ohm total. And that along with the MOSFET resistance brings the voltage down and the output was 1.8A on high.